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What do you guys normally pay for paint jobs?

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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 09:07 PM
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What do you guys normally pay for paint jobs?

Mines got no rust, one dent and some small dings. What should I expect to pay for a factory (winning silver) paint job?
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 09:12 PM
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1000 dollars?
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 09:41 PM
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WOW stuff is inexpensive in Canada. I guess $1000 is OK if you are having someone you know paint it but for a quality job expect to pay from $2000 to $6000. $6000 is a full bare metal strip including seat removal rolling the carpet back and painting the door jambs and under hood and the rockers, part of the floor.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 10:02 PM
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it depends on what you want. bodywork, paint, process, quality, labor, etc, etc.... it can range from a crappy quality maaco job for 300 bucks to quality body work and paint for over 8k.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 10:03 PM
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I need a paint job bad.
What was the stock color for an 86' Rx7. NA. Manual.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Street_Knight
I need a paint job bad.
What was the stock color for an 86' Rx7. NA. Manual.
mines white "WU" is the paint code
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 10:45 PM
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cool thanx.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 03:27 AM
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Jesus christ, who pays over $8k for a paint job, and why? A good quality job will be in the ballpark of $3.5k will pay for everything, jams, sunroof, engine bay, the works. Down to the frame will cost you a lot more, but anything above $5k is just overkill. For just the outside of the car, door jams, sunroof, look for around $2k-$3k. A cheaper job, with possibly cheaper materials can do you alright, but I wouldn't risk it.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by XxMerlinxX
Jesus christ, who pays over $8k for a paint job, and why? A good quality job will be in the ballpark of $3.5k will pay for everything, jams, sunroof, engine bay, the works. Down to the frame will cost you a lot more, but anything above $5k is just overkill. For just the outside of the car, door jams, sunroof, look for around $2k-$3k. A cheaper job, with possibly cheaper materials can do you alright, but I wouldn't risk it.
im talking about body work. like minor dents and dings and prep. a quality job (not the stock Mazda POS, more upscale like BMW) with some body would for over 6k wouldnt be unusual. 2k-3k wouldnt get you top notch stuff since paint alone costs a lot. then theres sanding, prep work, layering, clearcoat, etc etc.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 05:10 AM
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i got a bunch of dings pulled out, plus the whole car resprayed for $800 and its a badass job
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 05:12 AM
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i got a bunch of dings pulled out, plus the whole car resprayed for $800 and its a badass job
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 10:36 AM
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Good materials (paint, clear, filler, sanding suppliers, primer/sealer, polish compounds) for a good paint job will run you $1K even with a shop discount on material. That's material mind you, then add labor: breakdown of trim, bodywork, painting, assembly and polishing. Your doing good to get under 3500 for a good quality paintjob.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 11:24 AM
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The budget 500-1000 paint jobs will only last a few years. It all depends on what you are looking for.

You can get a show quality paint job for around 5 grand. The best thing you can do is utilize a friendship with a paint shop owner. That's what I did, scored a showcar quality paintjob for my FD for a *very* reasonable price
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
The best thing you can do is utilize a friendship with a paint shop owner. That's what I did, scored a showcar quality paintjob for my FD for a *very* reasonable price
I wish the work he did for me was even half as good as yours.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 11:58 AM
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Perhaps a better question would be

"What can a non-professionaly do it yourselfer do to cut down the cost of a paint job"

I mean, most people who own rx's are typically of the mindset "If you want it done right, do it yourself". A few door dings should be easy to fill and sand, and with a decent D/A orbital polisher you should be able to sand most of the vehilce down to primer in a few days.

Another question -- What can a do it yourself "**** up"-- I mean, here's my thinking. You rx-7 is likely not your daily driver, so its not like you can't be without it for a month. If an amateur goes and does some "prepwork" is there any irreversable damage he can do (i'm not talking about cutting and welding fenders here, a door ding or a crease at the most), that would end up costing him MORE to take it to a body shop.

Basically, would it be true, that if you unavoidably need a paintjob, there is no harm in trying to do everything up to the actually spraying, yourself?
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 01:49 PM
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double post

Last edited by fritts; Aug 18, 2006 at 01:53 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 01:53 PM
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I would say you could remove the trim and scuff the paint. That's if all the spots that need to be body worked are marked and you stay away from them. I would go no further than that, as it takes a skilled hand and eye to be able block sand a car correctly. Its especially important on a dark car.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 02:29 PM
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Guys. This is a rough estimate that I prepared. This is for an RX-7 with a perfect body. That means no repair time has been figured on any panel. Any dings and scratches would be extra. Use this as a reference point.

Sorry it didn't "copy" over very well. Let me know if you have any questions about it.

I've also included a .txt file of the same thing, but is easier to read.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NO. OP. DESCRIPTION QTY EXT. PRICE LABOR PAINT
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 FRONT BUMPER
2 REFN BUMPER COVER 3.0
3 ADD FOR CLEAR COAT 1.2
4 FRONT LAMPS
5* R&I RT LID 0.5*
6* R&I LT LID 0.5*
7 REFN LT LID 0.5
8 REFN RT LID 0.5
9 OVERLAP MINOR PANEL -0.2
10 O/H BUMPER ASSY 2.8
11 HOOD
12 REFN HOOD 3.5
13 OVERLAP MINOR PANEL -0.2
14 FENDER

1








08/18/2006 AT 02:24 PM JOB NUMBER:
24852
PRELIMINARY ESTIMATE
1993 MAZD RX-7 1.3L-TR 2D CPE INT:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NO. OP. DESCRIPTION QTY EXT. PRICE LABOR PAINT
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
15 REFN RT FENDER 2.5
16 OVERLAP MAJOR ADJ. PANEL -0.4
17 REFN LT FENDER 2.5
18 OVERLAP MAJOR ADJ. PANEL -0.4
19 R&I RT VENT ASSY GRILLE 0.5
20 R&I LT VENT ASSY GRILLE 0.5
21* REFN RT VENT ASSY GRILLE 0.5*
22* REFN LT VENT ASSY GRILLE 0.5*
23 ROOF
24 REFN ROOF PANEL 3.8
25 OVERLAP MAJOR ADJ. PANEL -0.4
26 DOOR
27 REFN RT OUTER PANEL 2.2
28 OVERLAP MAJOR ADJ. PANEL -0.4
29 REFN LT OUTER PANEL 2.2
30 OVERLAP MAJOR ADJ. PANEL -0.4
31 R&I RT BELT MOLDING 0.3
32 R&I LT BELT MOLDING 0.3
33 R&I RT MIRROR 0.5
34 R&I LT MIRROR 0.5
35* REFN RT MIRROR 0.5*
36* REFN LT MIRROR 0.5*
37 R&I RT HANDLE, OUTSIDE 0.4
38 R&I LT HANDLE, OUTSIDE 0.4
39 PILLARS, ROCKER & FLOOR
40 REFN RT UNISIDE ASSY S 2.5
41 OVERLAP MAJOR ADJ. PANEL -0.4
42 REFN LT UNISIDE ASSY S 2.5
43 OVERLAP MAJOR ADJ. PANEL -0.4
44 QUARTER PANEL
45 REFN RT QUARTER PANEL 2.7
46 OVERLAP MAJOR ADJ. PANEL -0.4
47 REFN LT QUARTER PANEL 2.7
48 OVERLAP MAJOR ADJ. PANEL -0.4
49 LIFT GATE
50 REFN LIFT GATE TO VIN 200251 2.0
51 OVERLAP MAJOR ADJ. PANEL -0.4
52* R&I SPOILER ASSY 0.8*
53 REFN SPOILER ASSY 1.2
54 OVERLAP MAJOR ADJ. PANEL -0.4
55 CLEAR COAT 2.5
56* R&I WIPER ARM 0.3*
57* R&I NOZZLE 0.5*
58 ELECTRICAL
59 R&I ANTENNA ASSY 1.2
60 REAR LAMPS
61 R&I RT COMBO LAMP ASSY 0.5
62 R&I LT COMBO LAMP ASSY 0.5

2








08/18/2006 AT 02:24 PM JOB NUMBER:
24852
PRELIMINARY ESTIMATE
1993 MAZD RX-7 1.3L-TR 2D CPE INT:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NO. OP. DESCRIPTION QTY EXT. PRICE LABOR PAINT
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
63 O/H BUMPER ASSY 2.5
64 R&I RT BACKUP LAMP ASSY INCL.
65 R&I LT BACKUP LAMP ASSY INCL.
66 R&I RT SIDE MARKER LAMP 0.3
67 R&I LT SIDE MARKER LAMP 0.3
68* R&I LICENSE LAMP INCL.*
69 R&I HIGH MOUNT LAMP 0.5
70 REAR BUMPER
71 R&I R&I BUMPER ASSY INCL.
72 REFN BUMPER COVER UPPER 2.5
73 ADD FOR CLEAR COAT 1.0
74 REPL NAMEPLATE "MAZDA" 1 31.60 INCL.
75 REPL NAMEPLATE "RX-7" 1 58.95 INCL.
76 REPL EMBLEM LOGO 1 28.55 INCL.
77 R&I R&I BUMPER ASSY INCL.
78 INTERIOR TRIM
79 R&I RT DOOR TRIM PANEL 0.7
80 R&I LT DOOR TRIM PANEL 0.7
81 R&I LIFT GATE TRIM LOWER 0.5
82 R&I RT LIFT GATE TRIM SIDE 0.3
83 R&I LT LIFT GATE TRIM SIDE 0.3
84* R&I REAR TRIM 0.3*
85# RPR ROPE TAPE FRONT AND REAR GLASS 1.0
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SUBTOTALS ==> 119.10 18.4 38.7


PARTS 119.10
BODY LABOR 18.4 HRS @$ 54.00/HR 993.60
PAINT LABOR 38.7 HRS @$ 54.00/HR 2089.80
PAINT SUPPLIES 42.7 HRS @$ 32.00/HR 1366.40
----------------------------------------------------
SUBTOTAL $ 4568.90
SALES TAX $ 1485.50 @ 7.5000% 111.41
----------------------------------------------------
GRAND TOTAL $ 4680.31

ADJUSTMENTS:
DEDUCTIBLE 0.00
----------------------------------------------------
CUSTOMER PAY $ 0.00
INSURANCE PAY $ 4680.31
Attached Files
File Type: txt
rx7.txt (11.4 KB, 415 views)

Last edited by Bodyshop; Aug 18, 2006 at 02:32 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Crymson
Perhaps a better question would be

"What can a non-professionaly do it yourselfer do to cut down the cost of a paint job"
Do it yourself. I did. Supplies cost in the neighboorhood of $2k, spent $300 on the gun and I had the air compressor. Did everything but the body in my garage. Properly cleaned vented and filtered and you're good to go. Rented a booth to do the body, $200.

I'd really like to know where some of you guys are coming up with these numbers, $800 for a badass paintjob? 1 gal primer = $270, 1 gal paint =$300, reducer + $70, Clear $200. Materials only $840.

Realize that the body work and the priming you can easily do yourself. You'll have probably sprayed 8 coats of primer, and sanded off 6 while doing the body work. Guide coat and block everythign down and any imperfections will be sanded out. Then let a pro in a booth lay down the sealer, base and clear. You'll cut out 70% of the cost & have a professional job
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 02:50 PM
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Ok -- so, i don't understand all the abreviated codes.

Is this for a full, colour change quality repaint? Door sills, rear hatch area excluding the engine bay, or is this for a respray?

I understand body labour, and pain labour, but "paint suplies @ 42.7hrs" what is that? Why would your supplies be billed at an hourly rate rather than jsut cost?
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
Did everything but the body in my garage. Properly cleaned vented and filtered and you're good to go.
My garage is fairly clean, but it's not vented beyond 1 window and a garage door, and there is definately no air filtration system.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 03:41 PM
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I'll probably be spending like a grand for the paintjob. I learned how to do the whole thing myself in this auto collision class I took in high school. Its just a daily driver NA :/
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Crymson
Ok -- so, i don't understand all the abreviated codes.

Is this for a full, colour change quality repaint? Door sills, rear hatch area excluding the engine bay, or is this for a respray?

I understand body labour, and pain labour, but "paint suplies @ 42.7hrs" what is that? Why would your supplies be billed at an hourly rate rather than jsut cost?
OK. The abreviations are as follows:

REFN = Refinish
REPL = Replace
R & I = Remove and install
RPR = Repair

The estimate that I posted is for a completed exterior paint job only.

Materials are often figured at an hourly rate. The hourly rate comes from the amount of book time figured to refinish each panel. This isn't the most accurate way to figure the cost of materials, but it is standardized. This method helps the customer more than anyone. Example: The fender pays 2.5 hours to refinish. That means there is 2.5 hours of labor charged at $56.00 / hour which comes to $140.00. Then you take the 2.5 hours and multiply it by the material rate which is $32.00 / hour which comes to $80.00. Therefore, if a painter makes a mistake and needs to use more materials than normal, the customer will not be charged for it. This method of charging for materials includes all materials used such as: sand paper, tape, masking paper, primer, sealer, base, clear, reducer, hardener.... It's much easier to charge this way instead of keeping a list of everything used on the car.

I know it's a little confusing, but I hope it helps.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Rufio
i got a bunch of dings pulled out, plus the whole car resprayed for $800 and its a badass job
Oh ****. Was this like a hookup thing? If not then let me know what body shop it was, you're like an hour away from me.

I didn't even know people got door jambs done...I don't even care about that ****
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 03:55 PM
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Wow, i never realized how much the cost of a paint job was the prep stuff.

I wouldn't cost that much at all to actually get the car "Painted" if that's what was involved, if a vehicled showed up on a tow truck, sanded, taped, and pulled apart the actually painting isn't that costly, it's the remove and install's that kill you.
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