travisorus rex

No worries.

I am going to try the other three tomorrow. Hopefully no surprises. I am more upset than disgruntled. The damaged area can always be fixed.

In any case I am still excited to have it and I am amazed at how well the roller works. Thanks agian.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

didnt mean to hijack this thread

bradt- if you can repair a guard rail damaged quarter panel and paint it for $450 then either your VERY fast or you dont pay for your supplies and dont pay for insurance or rent/lease mortgage.

And you can put all the primer you want on a weld, it will end up rusting from the OTHER side of the weld that you cannot get to, they always rust from the inside, not the outside.
Maybe in Alabama thats not as much of a problem but here it would be a huge problem.

redslide7

iTrader: (3)

rob your right you can use all the preventive measures you want but eventually it will rust better later than sooner. at our shop we use a weld through primer that we apply after we grind the area. its designed to melt into the weld when the weld is still hot. after welding a little metal etch primer and some seam sealer or filler where needed sand primer refinish and voila bodys by trent ha jk

thanks
trent

bradt

THIS GOES OUT TO REDSLIDE 7 AND ROB XX 7(you seem to have vast body work experience.)

PLEASE READ!!!!!!!!

Before you flame, I wold like to state we could all learn from one another.



weld is made from steel!!!
what is your car made from? sheet metal,which consists of lead????????no!!!!!
dose sheet metal rusts? yes; sheet metal consists of a metalic structure. what is the material #, it varies from car to car, but it all will rust!!!!!
are some parts made of aluminium?yes!
all parts, no!!!!therefoe it will eventually rust!!!!!!It is inevetiable.
Do car manufactors prime or paint the inner sidewalls or inner doors,etc???????
Dose your body shop^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Dose every car manufacture use E-Coat?????NO.
Dose your Body shop use E-Coat?I have $$$$ says NO.
Do you know waht E-Coat is? Maybe, but I doubt it!!!!
You are all right though,it will eventually rust from the inner out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Will it be 10 years before you ever see it at the surface??????I highly doubt it,More like 30!!!!!!!
After 30 years do you think it would be time to restore your car?????? More than likely!!!!!!!

I wolud like to state I know alot about metal finish,alot of you body techs. could learn alot from me,as I could learn alot from you!Not denying that at all.

As redslide says he uses a preventive primer he uses,I would like to Know the name,company etc.???There are still more we all could tricks to learn (espically to keep the 7 on the road)
We are in a business where we learn every day,If you think you know everything and you know the best way to fix it every time you are sadly mistaken.


Thanks,
Brad T.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

Brad- I was questioning the repair of a1/4 panel with paint for $450

and manufacturers use corrosion resistant coatings on thier panels from both sides, when you weld and grind the metal you remove these coatings. Using a stud gun and polyester filler and self etching primer on the outside of the panel, the inside of the panel is still protected with the factory process.

And I do know what E-caot is, in a nutshell its a epoxy coating appied with a electrical current used to protect the metal from corroding, I use a miltary spec for bare metal epoxy primer on cars that get taken down to bare metal, but for the most part I do not remove factory paint and primers unless they are in poor condition.
Even aftermarket panels have to be able to comply with certain corrosion resistant parameters, I think the minumim is 500 hours of salt spray?

And here in the northeast if the car is outside and driven in the winter,, you can expect a welded repair to start to rust in about 5 years or so at the welds.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

Brad- I was questioning the repair of a1/4 panel with paint for $450

and manufacturers use corrosion resistant coatings on thier panels from both sides, when you weld and grind the metal you remove these coatings. Using a stud gun and polyester filler and self etching primer on the outside of the panel, the inside of the panel is still protected with the factory process.

And I do know what E-caot is, in a nutshell its a epoxy coating appied with a electrical current used to protect the metal from corroding, I use a miltary spec for bare metal epoxy primer on cars that get taken down to bare metal, but for the most part I do not remove factory paint and primers unless they are in poor condition.
Even aftermarket panels have to be able to comply with certain corrosion resistant parameters, I think the minumim is 500 hours of salt spray?

And here in the northeast if the car is outside and driven in the winter,, you can expect a welded repair to start to rust in about 5 years or so at the welds if its along the wheel well area like a 1/4 panel.

bradt

Rob- sharp as a tac I see.
$450 for the metal finish, yes; but if its really fugged up it could be more. As far as using a stud gun, it will burn the protective coating off the inside , i promise I use one called "stinger"(for big deep damage) it will burn off the inner coating there is another i use called "elktron" with the settings turned down some times it will and some times it wont, depends on how thick the metal is.(as i am sure you know where there is a charecter line the metal is already streached some therefore it is thinner)As for the manufactures i think some use galvanized sheetmetal and some use corrosion resistant coating. I would like to chat with you about different body repair procedures (PM) as you seem to know your ****. Sorry to every one for thread jacking, I was just giving my opinion to travisorus rex and got caught in the flames sorry travis rex

Brad