SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

Why don't you quit being an idiot and listen to the collective wisdom of all of those who've posted on this thread.

Your "system" is utterly ridiculous and is *not* going to fit. You haven't even answered any of my questions:

*How are you going to fit two 12" subs in the trunk?
*Why would you have tweeters as part of your rear stage?
*How many woofers are you going to have in the front? Four? And why?

I've been into car audio for YEARS, and no one in their right mind puts together a system like this. You obviously 1) have no clue, and 2) don't even understand how to stage or setup a basic system.

And why don't you post pics of your "'94 RX-7"? I know you don't have one. Bet you're just some 15 year old candy-*** who takes the bus to school.

John64

Speedking, you might be a little harsh. I fit just as much **** in my FB and its all hidden. I think hes being a little over zelous (sp) with his whole setup. Its going to cost him over $4,000 to have the equipment bought and installed. I think hes just talking out of his ***. he has big dreams.
Take a look at mine. More on my page!


Here is a list of everything in my FB. So you can fit allot in a small space.
Alpine CDA 7831 Head Unit
Alpine SPS 130A 51/4 Speakers (front)
Alpine SPS 170A 61/2 Speakers (rear)
JBL GTS 600 pushing 300x2
JBL GTS 360 pushing 65x4
(2) Alpine ZR 12"subs
Rockford Fosgate 1 Farad Cap
Street Wires 4 Gauge Power
Monster Cable RCA's
Custom Sub Volume Control
Custom Fiberglass Sub Enclosures (.65cuft each)
Alpine Type R 15" in custom enclosure 1.8cuft
JBL GTS 600 pushing 300wts to each voice coil

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

John64: LOL, I'm being harsh and you say, "he's just talking out of his ***. he has big dreams."? Sounds like you're paraphrasing me!

Nice setup, BTW, although over the top and too loud for my tastes.

John64

Could be! But yoour beating him up pretty bad. Give him a few rounds to recoup.
satoacs did you even get pricing on any of this? You may have pipe dreams when it comes to your system, especially after that turbo you want to put in.

Hehe

Ok, now I was attacking him.

John

dblboinger

iTrader: (3)

You guys should really lighten up. Where would we be if everyone kept telling us we couldn't do things? Check the last paragraph of my 08-15-04 post....you probably would have been the ones telling me I couldn't do that too, but guess what ....I DID! It wasn't very practical, but in the early days of car stereo practicality wasn't even in the dictionary. Hell, I knew a guy with an early Nissan Hardbody that had 36 subs of various sizes (8" to 15") mounted in the bed of his truck and used the entire bed as a speaker cabinet. His system had over 5,000 watts....3 batteries and an entire electrical system dedicated to the stereo alone with a second alternator driven by a pulley mounted on the drive-shaft. In this thing, you could stop at a stop-light and if the road wasn't level the damn truck would vibrate so bad the vehicle would vibrate right off the road. How's that for practical???

You want to say there's not enough room....a Kicker 12" Solobaric only requires .75 cubic feet of air-space. That's easily obtained by removing the rear storage compartments and building a custom cabinet. Hell I could fit 4 of them in the same amount of room those worthless storage bins occupy and when I was done you wouldn't even be able to tell they were there. The guy is just trying to learn something for Christ's sake...just like the rest of us. If you know so much about the subject why don't you help him out instead of berating him? If he is full of ****, then perhaps the rest of us will benefit from your infinite wisdom on the subject of car audio. (I seriously doubt that).

Speedking(?)....let's look at some of your replies.....

1) 08-15-04 at 8:11 pm you ask, quote "what's the point of having coaxials behind the driver's and passenger's heads?"

then at 9:47 you say, quote "Instead of either woofers or tweeters, why not coaxials that have BOTH a woofer and a tweeter???"

Did you have some major revelation in that 1 hour and 36 minute time frame that made it suddenly okay to use coaxials? Coaxials for rear fill is definitely a viable option. I would not put them right behind the driver/passengers heads though...a little farther away and pointing forward would be good.


2) 08/16/04 at 4:26am you say, quote "For the second time, "Do you even know how big a 12" sub is depth-wise?" You're going to need an enclosure that's at least 9"-9.5" tall."

While you are partially correct, in that most 12" woofer reuire 6.5 - 7" of mounting depth if bottom-mounted. But more important is the internal volume of the cabinet. While there is a "Golden ratio" between height, width and depth of a speaker cabinet...varying from this ratio will not deteriorate the performance nearly as much as incorrect cabinet volume. Basically speaking, as long as the sub will phsically fit in the cabinet, without actually touching any baffle, the performance difference will be un-noticeable in all but the very high end systems.

3) In that same reply you question use of material as a dampening aid saying "it's not possible" ...au contrare monsieur....I have on a number of occassions used pillow stuffing to adjust dampening of a subwoofer in a cabinet that is excessively small. It does this by decreasing the velocity of the sound wave...but that is getting pretty deep. Next time you have a chance open up a set of Bose speakers...you will likely find some form of dampening material inside.

By the way...how long did it take you to dig up all those posts by satoacs?

4) Again on that same post you ask "Why would you have tweeters as part of your rear stage?"

You don't ever want a rear STAGE (that means the main portion of your sound is coming from the rear...kind of like going to a concert and sitting facing AWAY from the stage). You should always have tweeters as part of your rear FILL. Rear FILL should be full-range or at the very least full-range minus that range covered by your subs.

5) Same post..."Isn't the point of putting together a stereo system in your car is for it to sound good? You're not supposed to see it. "

Tell that to all the guys/gals in the car audio competitions who spend thousands of $$$$ making their systems look as good as they sound.



My point??? You obviously don't know all there is to know either. If you don't have anything constructive to say then don't say anything....just my opinion.

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

Sometimes telling someone NOT to do something is the correct answer. For example, check the 3rd gen. archives for people wanting to run mid-pipes or 3+ mods w/ no EMS and seeing how many blown motors were a result of that.

Who said anything about Kicker? "satoacs" said he was going w/ Audiobahn (see my reply below)***.

I could care less what you think. FYI, I have quite a few posts in this section regarding car audio and regularly get PMs from other members asking for advice. *Some* people seem to think I know a thing or two.

This was my first post on this thread and it addressed satoacs' first post /w the first diagram he attached. It was in the context of, if you have two 12" subs in the trunk, what would be the point of having coaxials behind you that you won't hear.

Does that make sense?

satoacs responded to *that* post and then posted, "the woofer behind the drivers head would be there so that if you tilted the seat back into a reclined position (not reclined for driving, reclined for like resting) then it would be by your head, i may acutally use tweeters for that.", hence I *subsequently* recommended coaxials in lieu of either woofers or tweeters solely.

Does this make sense to you too?

The "major revelation" is you don't know how to read. You ignore the posts in between mine and then have the nerve to misquote me, twisting the context of my posts w/o their background information.

***On the very first post of this thread, satoacs mentions, "a full audiobahn system with the amps and the subs that have the flame designs on them".

http://mainstreet-audio.com/audiobah..._woofers.shtml

Check the mounting depth on the "AWIS12P". Your 6.5"-7" isn't going to cut it. And minimal enclosure volume of those subs is 1.45 cu. ft. apiece. You'd be hard pressed to get two of those subs along w/ the enclosure and four amps into the trunk of a '94 FD.

satoacs posted, "the bed will be made up of wood, with the appropriate height (about 8"), and the wood will be covered with some fabric for dampening purposes."

I know what poly-fil is, but it's not something that you use to cover an enclosure with. The only thing I know of other than vinyl or paint that you use to cover an enclosure with is carpet, but its purpose isn't for dampening. What he's referring to, I have no idea.

About 5 seconds. So? Your point is?

Then you explain this to satoacs. He was the one that was going to mount tweeters by themselves in the rear. Again, "the woofer behind the drivers head would be there so that if you tilted the seat back into a reclined position (not reclined for driving, reclined for like resting) then it would be by your head, i may acutally use tweeters for that." I asked him why because it made no sense to do so.

Looking good and sounding good are mutually exclusive. Compare a Dyanaudio tuned system that come in later model Volvos to anyone in any car show. The sound quality in the former is better than 95% of what you'll hear in the latter.

Blah, blah, blah, you don't have any more points - I just shot them all down. And BTW, if you re-read satoacs' first post, at the end, he asks, "anyone have any critisim, or any tips?", he got criticism from me alright, not to mention from others who've responded on this thread. Why don't you go harass them too? And why don't you do a search and read all of satoacs' posts to see who you're dealing with. He's actually some little kid w/ no car. You go and check. And believe it or not, I actually helped him out in the beginning, but got tired of answering his repetitious and absurd questions.

dblboinger

iTrader: (3)

Just because you have a few posts doesn't make you an expert. If you were anything resembling an expert you would try to help the guy out a bit instead of just bashing him...that's all I'm trying to say. If YOU bothered to read...he also said he was THINKING about using a full Audiobahn system. Most people will follow an alternate path if given solid reason, therefore I mentioned Kicker and a few others to be exact. So before you go accusing others of not reading, perhaps YOU should take a look yourself. If he did decide to use a full-on Audiobahn system, there is more than enough room for that as well, with all the amps and equipment too....there just won't be room for anything else.

Two coaxials behind you is called rear fill and you will hear them if properly positioned and powered.

As for mis-quoting you...hard to do with cut and paste. Twisting the context of your posts? It's all there in black and white.

As for the Volvo...if we all used that type of reasoning we'd just go out and buy Porsche's instead of building our rotaries. Any ******* with a pocket full of dough can have those things, but you have to work for what we have. But, let's take this one step further...compare the sound quality of any properly installed aftermarket system to the system in 95% of the cars on the road and tell us who has the better sound quality.

I'm not harassing anyone, you do that enough for everyone from what I can see. I didn't respond to them because at least they tried to offer something constructive. If got tired of answering his questions...how did we end up in this conversation. All you did was prove how much of an *** you are......

Don't bother responding because I'm done here.

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

Where did I ever refer to myself as an "expert"? I've been into car audio for many years and chime in on things I know about. "satoacs" asked for criticism on his proposed setup and I asked questions of, and pointed out certain aspects that weren't feasible. If you can't deal with feedback, then don't ask.

He specifically mentioned Audiobahn and that's what I worked with. Fair enough?

With two 12" subs behind you? I think not.

If it was, "there in black and white", then why did you make the mistake of mis-quoting me?

What are you talking about? I'm referring to the Dynaudio systems in Volvos. What relevance does buying a Porsche over an RX-7 have to do with this?

We ended up in this conversation because you called me out.

As I mentioned above, I tell the truth. If you can't deal with it, that's your problem. Instead of getting defensive, you should address the issue. If satoacs had a sound plan (no pun intended), I would have told him that it was doable as opposed to picking it apart.

Likewise.

Then don't. I'm tired of responding to your posts too.

BizarroTerl

Sheesh! No wonder I don't spend much time in this forum.

satoacs

i decided to change my setup this is a new diagram.
i decided to go with only 2 amps because 4 will already be too many for the amount of speakers i am thinking of putting in. but i am sticking with two 12" subs.

no offence to anyone, but if you still need proof that 2 amps and two 12" subs will fit in the rear, look at rear.jpg also attached. if he would scoot the amp and sub over to the left, maybe even cut the subs box to have a little les width, he could easily fit another of each right next to it. im not saying i want my system to look like that, but it is a picture showing that there is enough room.

John64

NOw your talking! Simple is better. Build it first then you can always add.

John

Let me know if you need any help!

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

It's a must that the enclosure have the proper internal volume for the sub(s) to sound right. You can't just make the enclosure smaller and expect it to sound the same. If you're really set on having two 12" subs in the trunk, I'd opt for fabricating an enclosure out of fiberglass and have the subs angled, opposed to having them lying flat to get them to fit. And I'd go w/either two shallower (SVC) 12" subs, or two 10"s.

satoacs

wow thats a nice setup. i was going to go with a wooden box and fabric, then for the angled parts use fiberglass, would that be a good idea? or should i just stick with fiberglass for the whole thing?

John64

Have you ever fiberglssed before? If not it's hard! If you have a shop do it, you will be poor in no time. Go basic and build it from there. My fiberglass enclosure for my 15" took a week just by itself.

John

satoacs

i knew that it was hard to work with, but ive never used it. it costs a lot? how do they price it? what would you reccomend i do? should i just use wood and fabric?

KeithC

satoacs,

What is the most you would plan to spend for the labor charge alone?...Provided you decide to have it professionally done.

Are you in the US? ....Or somewhere that labor rates could be cheaper?

satoacs

im in the US, right now im trying to see how much everything would cost. i would prefer that it be cheap, just like anyone else. the only restriction that i have is i want to try to have the total for the car to be 28K, but im at $28,455.10, so i dont have much of a budget.
what can the prices range from?

KeithC

I haven't done any full time installing since 91 but prices havent changed that much. Take a look at this site: http: //www.mtx.com/caraudio/showcars/ Look at the Toyota Scion. Thats a pretty simple drop in system. The enclosure is not custom. I would think you could have something like that done for a couple hundred dollars in labor. Then look at the RSX and the S-10........those have many hours of custom work throughout. Work of that calaber would be at least $75/hour. At three plus months to do something like that ........ you do the math.

KaiFD3S

iTrader: (37)

Here's my set-up

satoacs

cant get to the website, but ill keep trying.
$75/hour!?!? you will go broke really fast with that rate!

John64

Told you it was not cheap. If this is your first sytem, just go with a bsic box and see if you like it.

John

KeithC

I think I stuck a space in the web address..........

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/showcars/

satoacs

you had 3 /'s....."http:///" i got it though. those were some really nice setups.

Im going to want my bed to be as flat as possible, and the "basic bed" is a lot cheaper, so im just going to stick with wood and fabric, then once i get done with it, its gonna look really nice.