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Rust solution?

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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 09:08 PM
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Rust solution?

I have a couple small rust spots on my DD, I was going to use an attachment on the end of a power drill to get the rust off, then paint it over with some Rustoleum or something similar. Any other suggestions
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 09:10 PM
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there's a good product called rustmort that turns the rust in to primer that you can sand and paint over.
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 09:12 PM
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How long does it take to work?
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 09:18 PM
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Knock off the loose stuff and POR15 it.
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Hecubus84
Knock off the loose stuff and POR15 it.
Will that stop the rust from forming?
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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moved to gen auto in:

3.....



2....




1...
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 09:32 PM
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I have a tiny bit of rust on my nearly perfect condition 87 t2, and want to remove it as well before it gets bad. I'm not ready for a paint job yet.

there's a good product called rustmort that turns the rust in to primer that you can sand and paint over.
Probly will try that.
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Old Jun 5, 2008 | 11:05 PM
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Naval jelly first, then the rust paint stuff.
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 01:22 AM
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^

+1 Naval Jelly
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 10:20 AM
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man, forget the naval jelly, that's nasty stuff, and frankly it doesn't work that well. It does get the rust off, but it does not prevent further corrosion.

Use a wire brush, whatever to knock off the loose stuff.
The use POR-15 or Ospho(or phospho-plus or the like). That will not only get rid of the rust, but it will prevent any future rust from ever forming.
I think the rustmort is similar to ospho and POR-15.

The phosphate products I mentioned(and maybe that rustmort stuff) turn iron oxide into iron permanganate, an incredibly tough inert black substance.
It's kind of like a primer, but for a good paint finish it should be properly done, with epoxy primer and then paint.

Ospho works great, it's a chem, but not nearly as caustic as naval jelly.
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 10:25 AM
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Charles. . .is it in a spot where paint shows/you need paint to stay? Wanted to check w/ that before i posted a response
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Mordachai
man, forget the naval jelly, that's nasty stuff, and frankly it doesn't work that well. It does get the rust off, but it does not prevent further corrosion.

By no means does it prevent. You need to double team it, though. Jelly first, rust inhibiting paint, second.

Just don't get that **** on your skin. Burns.
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by wotnartd
By no means does it prevent. You need to double team it, though. Jelly first, rust inhibiting paint, second.

Just don't get that **** on your skin. Burns.
I just wrote that about the jelly, becuase any rust inhibiting paint, only slows it down, not stopping it, that's why POR-15 and the like are so trusted by classic car restorers(providing they can't get good sheetmetal)

lbut yeah, burns big time, eats through all but the 'thickster' nitrite gloves(even those don't last long) the worst is inhaling that nasty vapor. Although whenever I use any rust fighting chem I always wear my respirator....
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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Mordachai
lbut yeah, burns big time, eats through all but the 'thickster' nitrite gloves(even those don't last long) the worst is inhaling that nasty vapor. Although whenever I use any rust fighting chem I always wear my respirator....
Oh i gotz something that will burn. . . on any of your 3 eyes



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Old Jun 6, 2008 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mordachai
I just wrote that about the jelly, becuase any rust inhibiting paint, only slows it down, not stopping it, that's why POR-15 and the like are so trusted by classic car restorers(providing they can't get good sheetmetal)

lbut yeah, burns big time, eats through all but the 'thickster' nitrite gloves(even those don't last long) the worst is inhaling that nasty vapor. Although whenever I use any rust fighting chem I always wear my respirator....
I just do all my work in the rain, keeps fumes to a minimum.
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