ZeroBanger

Nothing Fancy but I installed this last weekend on my 94. for only 49.99 + the cost of an actuator its pretty good price.

This keyless entry has outputs for an alarm and also includes a starter/ignition kill feature. I decided to use the stock Alarm/ignition kill and use the keyless entry for just keyless entry. It also has ignition lock/unlock which is convenient.


http://www.audiovox.com/webapp/wcs/s...1673&langId=-1

I cant believe I spent the last 2 years using my key to unlock the doors, what a PIA.

Just Bring It

can you make a writeup on how to install that keyless entry. I too, have a 94 touring, and would like to install it, but I don't know how difficult it would be.

Thanks

ZeroBanger

damn, give you guys an inch you ask for a mile. j/k. Im not going to be able to go into details with pictures but I can give you an overall, there are some gaps to fill in of course.

you will need an actuator. You will need 2 relays both with 5 pins (87 and 87A). wiring diagrams for the relays are here:

http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp

the hardest part is the actuator. You have to make it work for 3 conditions.

1) using the key
2) opening manually from inside
3) using the remote

I found several positions that I had it, it would work for 2 of the 3. They give you a heavy wire to connect to the cable to your lock mechanism, its near impossible to bend (the one I had was) so I used a coat hanger, easy to bend and cut but also strong enough not to flex. I found that not only did I have to bend the wire, but I had to angle the actuator. I know that is not descriptive but its the best I can do. Here is a pic I found of the forum of someone elses. My actuator is angled similar (almost exact) but I have the rod attached directly to the cable instead of the handle like this guy did it. Some think the cable is not strong enough. I disagree, the key is to make it angled so it has no more stress on the cable than it does when you use the key.

THE PICTURE BELOW IS NOT MINE, ITS SOMEONE ELSES ON THE FORUM , MINE IS MOUNTED ALMOST IDENTICAL.




thats the biggest bitch of the project. its not that bad, just have a few hours to **** away while you experiment with this.

Next its just the wiring, you should have the relays wired like you see in the first link, one relay is LOCK the other is UNLOCK. Our system is a Negative Lock/unlock system. Take the Lock lead of the actuator and attach it to # 30 of the lock side of the relay and take the unlock lead of actuator and attach to #30 of the unlock relay. (you already should have the power and ground set on the relay based on the link above).

Now, to hook the keyless entry you hook the yellow wire to the ignition (its located above the fuse box, the plug on the right), the red wire goes to the battery (you can get this from the plug on the left side of the fuse box).

The ulock wire from the keyless goes to the pin on the unlock relay as described in the first link, and the lock wire goes to the pin on the lock relay as described in the first link. Take a 16 gauge wire and splice one end into the unlock wire from the Keyless entry and splice the other end into the light green wire that has a red stripe (this will disable the alarm when you press the UNLOCK, but the alarm will still trip if you manually unlock the door without the Key or the button).

The black wire of the keyless gets grounded. I installed the relays and keyless unit behind the drivers side kick panel.

Wiring is a piece of cake. it will take 3-4 hour to install, but its not that bad. Not the best write up, but you get the idea.

Just Bring It

thanks a lot. I'm gonna try to do this.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

<< I cant believe I spent the last 2 years using my key to unlock the doors, what a PIA. >>

i know wut u mean ... and wut scared the crap outta me was when when doorhandle broke, and the lock on the other door handle was givin me issues lol...

ZeroBanger...did that keyless entry also come w/ the option to remotely roll down the windows?

ZeroBanger

Yes, You can open trunk (if you have an actuator for the trunk), roll down/up windows, sun roof, etc.

Russ

how much are actuators? jw id id be able todo both doors and the hatch for under $250

ZeroBanger

You dont need to do the Passengerside door, it has an actuator. You can buy an actuator off the net for as little as 4.50 or so. I bought mine in the peoples republic of Kalifornia, so of course I paid like 24.95.

I didn't do the trunk thing, no need really.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

<< I didn't do the trunk thing, no need really. >>

i know wut u mean...it's like, wut trunk?!

93 R1

thats good **** right there...thanks

ZeroBanger

I just looked closer at the link I gave you guys for the Relay wiring. Its a bit confusing since there are many types of locks listed.

this is what you need for the 7. This is not my drawing, it came from the net, but its the exact wiring I used.

jdhuegel1

ZeroBanger,

Good find.

Zyon13B

Good job once again, ZB. Your like the Martha Stewart of FD's.

ZeroBanger

Wow thats almost Sig material. I may just use that, LOL.

Zyon13B

LOL, You have my permission.

InsaneGideon

Good to see you figured this out. How did you route the wires from the door panels to the kick panel?

ZeroBanger

Damn....I was hoping nobody would have thought to ask, LOL.

interms of requirements, only 1 wire is required to go in the door, and thats the 12V wire. I routed two because I didn't want to splice the unlock signal into the alarm disarm wire at the kick panel. I did it inside the door simply by inserting it into the harness where the clip is.

At the hinge of the door there is a very small opening. I routed the wires through there. You can fit alot of wires if necessary...as I had to bypass my harness for the door lock/unlock since my harness has corroded those contacts.

Doesn't interfere with opening/closing the door. The relay and alarm module are under my drivers side kick panel.

InsaneGideon

Haha, gotcha!

I routed the wires through the same place
I just didn't want to mess with that harness.

I used some 14 gauge automotive & in wall (house) grade wire. I covered them with electrical tape, and found they were getting scraped by the hole in the door jamb. Little shavings of tape were found around that hole. I rigged up a bearing surface by taping a nylon cable tie along it and now I no longer find any shavings.

GQMRacerX7

Could you elaborate on where the disarm wire is? I spliced into the GRN/RED wire going to the Door Lock Timer Unit (green box near the opening at hinge of the door where my wires come in the car) and spliced it to the negative unlock pulse wire coming from the Audiovox (goes to 86 on the relay). Unfortunately it blew the actuator. Well at least everything was working until I spliced the wire. Now I did make a mistake in that when I spliced the wire to the Audiovox the battery was connected (I was testing before that and just forgot it was connected) so maybe that was what damaged the actuator. After I troubleshot the system and figured out that it was the actuator that was no longer working, I checked voltage on the GRN/RED wire and when the lock is engaged it is 12V and when unlocked it's 0V. Which doesn't seem like it's the correct wire...

Thanks for any help,
Grant

ZeroBanger

its the green yellow wire in the drivers side door panel. it clips into the harness near the door handle.