uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Ok, this had probably been hased over quite a few times, but the search didn't bring anything useful up.

I have an 87 GXL with some nice 6.5" Rockfords in the back, and some decent 4" in the front dash location. It sounds like utter *** right now, and I'm confident that a nice set of Rockford 6.5" components mounted in the doors would make a huge difference.

I haven't grabbed the speakers yet or pulled my door panels off, but was wondering if any of you guys know of some good write-ups, it'd be much abliged.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I haven't grabbed the speakers yet for measurement, but I think I'm in trouble.

Here's the ones I really want to get:

clicky

That's one huge *** magnet. I think I'm really going to need a seperate amp for those too. I have a nice Pioneer deck, but it only has a 45w4 mosfet internal amp. It'll probably power the set, but it'll be pretty weak.

What are some other good mounting spots? Could I somehow cram those 6 1/2" chunks where the current under dash speakers are? They only handle the lower frequencies which should carry from under the dash, right? lol, I'm such a car audio noob.

91mazdarx7

link doesnt show the speakers its just the homepage

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm, work sfor me at home, but it might be because I'm using Firefox. Here's the specs:



3/4" aluminum dome tweeter with 3 mounting configurations: dual coaxial, coaxial/component, dual tweeter component

Cold-rolled vented steel frame

Separate 12dB crossover slope

Bottom-mount depth is 2.6"

Frequency response: 60Hz - 22kHz

Sensitivity: 88dB

Impedance: 4 ohms

Bottom Mount Depth (inches): 2-5/8"

Tweeter Design 3/4" aluminum dome tweeter

Woofer Composition: Mica-injected polypropylene cone

Peak Power Handling: 120 watts
RMS Power Range (watts): 60 watts
Sensitivity: 88db
Frequency Response: 60-22K

ckyguy

I hope when you say "nice pioneer deck" you don't mean the one I left in there after keeping my Eclipse, because that would be a big cause of it sounding like crap. Also the stock locations for the front speakers are terrible! But I also doubt you'll fit any decent speakers in the thin door pannels. It'd be nice if you did, but I'd suggest making fiberglass kickboards pointing towards you with your newfound fiberglass skills. Nice speaker choice, but why RF? They don't have anything better where you work? RF used to make competitive high end stuff, but they've really gone down hill lately. Or even www.hookedontronics.com has decent alpine stuff if I remember right.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Nah, I had a nice deck in my Accord and just swapped them I bought it in 1999, but it was the best they had at the time.

I'm pretty much trying to stick with what I can get a discount on as well, otherwise I'd go hunting at a realy car audio shop. Hehe.

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

If you want those speakers AND good sound, welcome to building custom kickpanels 101.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Kickpanels would kind of suck though, because I don't exactly fit well in a FC. It's cozy now, but might be too cramped with kick panels in there.

faye x7

Fosgates are over-rated, that's your problem.

nillahcaz

iTrader: (2)

Rockford sucks.
for that price get some eclipse or boston acoustics may not be components but they will sound alot better

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I would, but I'm getting those Rockfords for $90 thanks to my discount.

I got a chance to take them out of the box and that bottom chunk of worthless plastic comes off pretty easy and door mounting should actually work out pretty well.

Now I just need to get enough cash together to buy an amp in the future to run them. Right now I'm going to have to go right off the deck.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I got those sons of bitches to fit tonight. It involved cutting some steel from the doors, but they clear the windows at 3" deep, and sound pretty damn good for a set of $90 components. I actually managed to get the wiring right on the first shot.

I'll post some pics tomarrow after I clean up a bit.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Ok, here's the hole I made in the door:



Note the roughness of the right side of the opening. Using a recip. saw on cheap sheetmetal does't make for a clean cut once it starts to bend with the saw.

Here's what the finished job looks like:





The sound pretty damn good even without a seperate amp. I listen to alot of metal and such, not much homie rap, so I think I'll be able to live without a sub for awhile now.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

It's been over a week and I haven't had any problems so far. They're still in there firmly, and the windows haven't rubbed or anything of that nature.

My deck does dim on bass kicks when I have it cranked up though, and I was wondering if you can use caps for your deck if you don't have a seperate amp.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

It's been over a week and I haven't had any problems so far. They're still in there firmly, and the windows haven't rubbed or anything of that nature.

My deck does dim on bass kicks when I have it cranked up though, and I was wondering if you can use caps for your deck if you don't have a seperate amp.

nillahcaz

iTrader: (2)

umm.. you can use a cap but you would be better off runing a new full time pos. to the battery.

but if you don't want to take the time to solve the problem somthing like this would be a good band-aid
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...Fid=272%2D1022

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

So I could use a large ring terminal, some nice and heavy wire with an inline maybe... 15a fuse and run it straight to the stereo off the battery? It actually wouldn't be that hard since the previous owner cut a 1" diameter hole in the firewall to run all the wiring for his undercar kit.

I should just do it at the same time I run the wiring for my FTP lights.

ckyguy

actually 2 gauge wire for amps, and ungerglow wires. btw I like the badges I saw in another post of yours.

604Ryder

hey, i spent the whole day about thinking where to put my speakers (although they are a much small alpine 5 1/4 its still a problem) ... i thought about the doors but i knew i would need to cut.... my question is what did u use to cut the door and how are u holding those heavy looking speakers in there? my guess is that u just bolted them rite to the panel rite? ... can anyone tell me how "safe" that is?

totallimmortal

bolting to the panel is a bad idea just screw through into the metal of the door

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I did cut the metal behind them, and it was only 3 minor cuts (the area is between 3 of the holes that are already there). It's perfectly safe because your impact beam things are on the outter skin of the door. You'll be able to see them once you slice it open.

As far as teh mounting goes, I put the panel back on the way it was supposed to be, then put a drill through the holes that I put on the oanel, and then ran the scres through so they go into the panel and the metal behind.

So far they've stuck pretty well.

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

Upgrade your alternator.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I almost did because I thought it died, and may still. I have over $400 in my Paypal account that I gained by selling computer goods in hopes that I'd find some cool RX-7 stuff to grab. Silverrotor's alternators beckon daily.

Now that I reconnected the alt. and ran a relay and line directly from teh battery, it's doing much better though, so it might not be required. We'll see how that goes when I get an amp and sub in there though.