Make your own steering wheel
07-23-08, 03:34 PM
#28
I need a new user title
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Yaizu, Japan
Posts: 2,646
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Saw one of your posts randomly quoted with no context in someone's sig, so I came to see what it was about. Pretty neat idea. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
I can't believe how stupid some of the replies are. Did they turn this into a Honda forum without telling me?
I can't believe how stupid some of the replies are. Did they turn this into a Honda forum without telling me?
i own a honda...as my dd
07-29-08, 09:16 PM
#34
The Chartist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's finished, and i've been driving around with it for a few days, i'll get pics as soon as i can get a camera.
I'm starting to think about buying a momo wheel now, not that there's anything wrong with this wheel, but it was a good learning tool, i want something a little bit bigger, maybe 300 mm, and i want the wheel to be closer, i can't find any spacer kits for grant wheels, except for the ones that are the 5 bolt pattern, which i think are the same as momo's and sparco's. I'm also going to get a quick release, i might just modify the wheel i made to fit the 5 bolt pattern, or just buy one of the race wheels momo sells.
I've been looking at these;
http://www.momousa.com/detail.php?ca...roup=147&pic=1
http://www.momousa.com/detail.php?ca...roup=146&pic=1
Not really the design i was looking for but at this size the style of wheel i wanted just doesn't work.
In the end i think this project has been a failure, there just isn't enough compatibility with this bolt pattern to do anything further, i didn't think to look for spacer kits until now. I'll make another wheel later, but i'm too busy right now and would rather just buy one.
Thanks for everyones support, i'll finish this thread off with some pics and a detailed explanation of the whole process once i get some photos.
I'm starting to think about buying a momo wheel now, not that there's anything wrong with this wheel, but it was a good learning tool, i want something a little bit bigger, maybe 300 mm, and i want the wheel to be closer, i can't find any spacer kits for grant wheels, except for the ones that are the 5 bolt pattern, which i think are the same as momo's and sparco's. I'm also going to get a quick release, i might just modify the wheel i made to fit the 5 bolt pattern, or just buy one of the race wheels momo sells.
I've been looking at these;
http://www.momousa.com/detail.php?ca...roup=147&pic=1
http://www.momousa.com/detail.php?ca...roup=146&pic=1
Not really the design i was looking for but at this size the style of wheel i wanted just doesn't work.
In the end i think this project has been a failure, there just isn't enough compatibility with this bolt pattern to do anything further, i didn't think to look for spacer kits until now. I'll make another wheel later, but i'm too busy right now and would rather just buy one.
Thanks for everyones support, i'll finish this thread off with some pics and a detailed explanation of the whole process once i get some photos.
08-14-08, 01:52 AM
#35
Play Well
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You know in real steering wheels, the steel is rod steel, right? Not a narrow band.
The narrow band doesn't like to be pushed as much as the steel rod. Your wheel, believe it or not, has a lot of flex in the (looking from the front) x and y directions, but very little in the z direction. A good steering wheel has even numbers in all directions.
Yours is a death trap.
I know the older Porsche wheels are like bands. But it's heavy, and about 1/4" thick. and runs the opposite way as yours, so when you look at it from the front, you see the width of the face of the steel, not the narrow side.
Torsional rigidity on yours is **** poor.
A for idea, B for effort, F for execution.
And as a side note, I wouldn't use a piece of steel that thin in the design of my shift *****.
The narrow band doesn't like to be pushed as much as the steel rod. Your wheel, believe it or not, has a lot of flex in the (looking from the front) x and y directions, but very little in the z direction. A good steering wheel has even numbers in all directions.
Yours is a death trap.
I know the older Porsche wheels are like bands. But it's heavy, and about 1/4" thick. and runs the opposite way as yours, so when you look at it from the front, you see the width of the face of the steel, not the narrow side.
Torsional rigidity on yours is **** poor.
A for idea, B for effort, F for execution.
And as a side note, I wouldn't use a piece of steel that thin in the design of my shift *****.
Last edited by JSmith0101; 08-14-08 at 01:58 AM.
08-14-08, 10:16 AM
#36
Brap Brap Psshh
![Tyler [S5 FC]'s Avatar](https://www.rx7club.com/customavatars/avatar115591_1.gif){kind=avatar}
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I really don't know about this whole thing, it seems like way too much work! I paid $85 for my Momo Mod 78 Suede wheel. Italian Suede, and all I did was screw the bitch on... seems like the easiest way to go... maybe just me!
08-14-08, 08:33 PM
#37
The Chartist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You know in real steering wheels, the steel is rod steel, right? Not a narrow band.
The narrow band doesn't like to be pushed as much as the steel rod. Your wheel, believe it or not, has a lot of flex in the (looking from the front) x and y directions, but very little in the z direction. A good steering wheel has even numbers in all directions.
Yours is a death trap.
I know the older Porsche wheels are like bands. But it's heavy, and about 1/4" thick. and runs the opposite way as yours, so when you look at it from the front, you see the width of the face of the steel, not the narrow side.
Torsional rigidity on yours is **** poor.
A for idea, B for effort, F for execution.
And as a side note, I wouldn't use a piece of steel that thin in the design of my shift *****.
The narrow band doesn't like to be pushed as much as the steel rod. Your wheel, believe it or not, has a lot of flex in the (looking from the front) x and y directions, but very little in the z direction. A good steering wheel has even numbers in all directions.
Yours is a death trap.
I know the older Porsche wheels are like bands. But it's heavy, and about 1/4" thick. and runs the opposite way as yours, so when you look at it from the front, you see the width of the face of the steel, not the narrow side.
Torsional rigidity on yours is **** poor.
A for idea, B for effort, F for execution.
And as a side note, I wouldn't use a piece of steel that thin in the design of my shift *****.
I've got a Nardi-Personal wheel now, i'm just really busy and haven't even been able to do anything with the car yet.
http://www.aspecproducts.com/all_pro...-33-2081_B.jpg
They used smaller versions of that same wheel in F1 cars during the 80's.
The whole thing was a technical exercise to see if i could do it, it works fine, try making something with that rubber i used and you'll see that it's not so much of a death trap.
Last edited by Paul Loatman; 08-14-08 at 08:40 PM.
