BklynRX7

Ok im planning out the painting of my fc and have some vital questions.

First of all, I am going to wetsand my existing paint and then spray over it without primer.

1)How much paint will i need, and how many coats should i use?
2) same as 1 but applied to clearcoat
3)what size tip should i use for the paint a clearcoat
4) Should i wetsand the paint before clearcoat(ive asked and gotten mixed answers, i didnt think so)
5)I read i am supposed to keep the gun 90 degrees from the surface to insure even paint, How do i paint the roof ???
6)If i have bondo in some places and have to put primer over it, will this show through the paint if sanded properly?
7) what grit should i use to wetsand the current paint?
8) besides the spray gun itself what else will i need in terms of the compressor( filter, water/oil trap ect..)
Thanks in advance, i know its alot of questions but im just tryna do this right.

BklynRX7

I stopped the loading half way through to add more questions and it double posted, please delete the other and keep this.

EKTwin93

I can't answer all your questions about applying the paint, but I can tell you that if your trying to wetsand your paint for prep for new paint, you should first sand it down with 220-320 at least. Just sand back and forth to get rid of orange peel. With bondo, if it's primed properly, you won't be able to see it after paint. Basically, you shouldn't be able to see bondo after primer if you've sanded it right. Filler primer is really helpful with covering up bondo. Also, you can probably go to a paint store, and they can tell you how much you will need of everything (hardeners, base, clear, etc )

BklynRX7

Thanks, i gues si fucke dup on my sunroof panel then. i sanded it down so perfect and fluch and smooth but i still see the difference through primer. Ill see how it looks after paint.

FNQuick

You need to prime and block-out the entire car. Expect to put on 2 extra coats of clear (your clear may also require flex add on your bumpers). You'll wet sand them off later. If your doing it at home you'll sand off some bugs and dust nibs too. There are some good books out on body repair and painting. The info will be worth it in the end. Haven't painted a whole car in 10 years but I remember the frustration.

Mr. ImportGuy

If you wet sanded through the primer and allowed the bondo to get wet you need to redo the repair. Bondo is like a sponge it will absorb and hold the water causing the metal below to rust, and the bondo to fail.

If you are just going to seal the existing paint with a sealer and not a heavy build primer I would go with 400grit on sanding the paint down. Going with lower grits will require you to apply many coats of primer or sealer that is not a heavy build, to fill the sand scratches. The steps to painting saying you have primed your repair areas and wet sanded them with a hevy build primer, and lightly sanded the existing paint are. Apply a sealer coat of primer recomended by the paint system you are using (note this coat should not need sanding). Then apply at least 2 coats of your base coat, the base shouldn't be sprayed so wet that it is super glossy. The base should almost look matte but non-metalic colors will look somewhat semi gloss. After this you may wet sand if you choose to but there really shouldnt be a need to. Once you have allowed the proper flash time for the base coat apply 3 to 4 coats of clear if you plan on sanding/rubbing the paint. Make sure you allow proper flash time between every coat of anything you spray! Also your clear should be applied almost to the point of running for a super slick look. But if it is your first paint job dont try and get it too wet or you will have runs all over. And sence you are rubbing the paint it won't matter if its a tiny bit dry. If you are painting the door jams and ect you will want about 3 quarts of your base coat, so you have room to play with. The clear will be a bit more but your local supply shop should be able to help you with that.

For your compressor you will want at least 30 gallons of air, and enough hp to keep that tank full all the time. Get a cheep water trap for the tank end of the line, and a dissposable filter for right at the gun. Also make sure you get some strainers for when you pour the paint into the gun. As for an fluid tip on the gun get a 1.4 or 1.3 for baseclear. For keeping the gun at 90* on the roof and hood don't worry about it. Get the gun as close as possible or you will be likly to spill paint on the car. But you should be able to get close enough. If there was anything I missed ask agian lol.

1revn3rdgen

iTrader: (27)

^He's right but i would apply 3 coats of base coat.You know a lot about preping and painting, do you do this for a living?

Mr. ImportGuy

That's why I said at least 2 coats of base, it just depends on how much bleed through you have with the primer. Yep I'm working on being a painter. Licensed body tech but enjoy paint more.

BklynRX7

I went to my paint shop and they recommended Deltron 2000 base by PPG. It can be applied directly over the existing paint/clear with no rpimer, and only light 600/800 grit sanding is recommended. They told me i wouldnt need more than a quart considering the color im spraying is similar to the color on the car and the car has alot of glass.

AS for my sunroof panel i dry sanded the bondo by hand with 240grit till it was flush and unnoticable in every way besides the color. I then smoothed itout with 400grit. I sanded it down to the point that practically the only bondo left is in the holes with just a transparent layer over it. However it shows clearly through the primer. Is this normal? I dont know whatelse to do, it cant be sanded any further. Im gonna attempt the paint tomorrow anyway and see what happens, its no big deal if i have to do it over