GarrettF

So I was snooping around the forum and was in contact with DamonB. he used to produce these boxes but he stopped maybe 6 years ago. Anyway, he sent me the thread with the specs, i made the box and installed it today. I know the carpet and the floor in front of the box is a little messed up but I will get around to making that nicer maybe this weekend, for now all i need is a smaller 4ch amp since mine is about 1/2" to big to fit behind the divider. Anyway, all I had was my cell so the pics arent great but they do the job.

GarrettF

aircat

I bought my MDF to make mine this past weekend. I'm waiting for my speaker to show up. What did you cover your box with? What other components are you using, HU, door speakers etc.?

Thanks.

AC

GarrettF

The box is covered in black automotive carpet, the gray kind that most woofer boxes are covered in, just black.

I am using an eclipse headunit that i bought 2 years ago, it is a pretty basic sat ready unti 50x4, full eq control, cd/mp3 the usual deal, in the back i have 6x9 eclipse speakers, i dont rememebr the model number but they are 3 way and they are 100 rms, the front are new too i just bought them today, alpine type s 100 rms 3 way speakers 17c's, those are 6.5 inch i think, but i tossed the box already. I put the speakers in the door using a mdf bracket i got on ebay for like $30, they were prefabed to replace factory bose door location and allow a 6.5 to fit, they worked pretty well

aircat

Were there any issues using the door adapters from Ebay? I posted a question on here a week or so ago asking if anyone had used them and no one answered. I was considering gettting them but this weekend I took off my bose assembly and looked at how much clearance I had once the window was down and it didn't look like I'd be able to put most of the speakers I see in there. Were you able to clear your window in the down position and still get your door panel on ok?

Also, now that you ran into the amp fitment problem, how thick does the amp have to be to fit on the back of the DamonB box?

Thanks!

AC

Punished

that looks awesome man. I like how the trunk can still be used.

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

I built this as well last weekend. Took me a couple shots to get it the way I want. Still have not put it in to test fit due to haveing to relocate the relocated battery It is where the box is going. What sub did you use.. I am looking at a JL 10 designed for sports cars/compact cars.

jmeyer93

iTrader: (1)

wow that looks really good and clean. i also like how you still have a trunk. can you send me the specs so i can build one also?

GarrettF

my door panels are still off, i will know tomorrow for sure if they fit but I assume they will fit, the speakes i got only have a 2 1/4 inch mounting depth which really isnt that much, i have aftermarket speakers in there now which i cut the mouts so they would fit and i dont think that they were shallower then the ones i started doing today, i think they are fne but i havent lowered the windows or put the door panels back on, as soon as i know tomorrow i will post

GarrettF

my problem is amp length and width, not height, there is plenty of room in the height dept, easily more then 3 inches of clearance and most amps arent that high

GarrettF

do a search for threads started by damonb

jmeyer93

iTrader: (1)

ok thanks

GarrettF

1/4 inch spacers were needed to prevent the speakers i bought from hitting the window when it was down. no big deal or you could look for speakers with a 2in mountign depth and have no problem at all, furehter i had to cut a chunk out of the bracket so that some wiring would fit through, no big deal though

aircat

So 1/4" spacers clear the window, does the door panel fit properly with the spacers too?

By the way I appreciate all your input as it will save me (and others) a ton of time and pain.

Thanks again,

AC

GarrettF

1/4 inch spacers and the door panel fit perfectly and it clears the window nicely, i prob could have done a smaller spacer but i wanted to make sure the window never hit the magnet. The door panels are much easier to take off then i thought they would be, and once the bose mounts (which are heavy) are removed, the ebay brackets worked great

aircat

Thanks again GF. I can't wait for all my pieces to get here so I can get started on mine! Let us know how that system sounds when you have it all tweaked. Sounds like it oughta rock!

AC

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

How tight was your box fit on the sides..inbetween the strut tower plastic? I test fit mine today and it pushes the plastic back and i have to jam it to get in it to where it looks like it should mount. Just curious how tight the sides are...I swear i measured it correctly.

Thanks GF,

Dave

GarrettF

i have at plenty of room on the sides of my box, maybe you measured wrong, the only place it is tight is under the strut bar which is good becasue it will not slide around

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

I figured it out this morning. Here is what happened. I "assumed"(first mistake) that he gave dimensions of each individual piece. Front,back,sides respectively. Unfortunately he gave "built" demensions. Which to me is *** backwards when you are cutting out pieces to assemble something. But whatever. I figured out what I did wrong...trust someone else. But hey he did go thru the trouble of taking 5 measurements with a tape so i can't complain I guess

At least i have a box for the FC now as well

GarrettF

yeah, i could see how you could make that mistake... i finally finsihed it all up today and i am extremely satisfied with the sound and setup

now i need a speaker grill... anybody got any creative ideas?

RX72NR

iTrader: (1)

You could take some stainless steel dowels and bend them in the shape of a "[". Drill and then tap the ends for attaching to the inside of the enclosure with bolts. Would look clean and protect the cone. Install as many/few as you see fit. I think 3 would look great mounted vertically. Another option would be to take a piece of plexiglass, cut it to the shape of a rotor and attach it using three long hex nuts to space it in front of the sub. You can sandblast details on the rotor. Your setup looks clean and retains some storage area. Nice job!

DamonB

Sorry. Cut to size dimensions would have been nice but would only work if everyone used the same thickness of material, so I listed the as-built external dimensions and everyone has to figure out what the actual cut measurements are based on the material they are using.

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

It is not your fault at all Damon. Hell you were cool enough to let everyone else in on your thing Anyways, there are so many variables involved that these should be used as guidlines.( which i believe you actually say). My issue today was/is that the mounting circumfrence of the JL sub I got is larger than the 10 surface there is to work with. Moral of this story is get all your components, THEN build. ha!! Oh well. Just added a 1/2 in piece to the bottom and it seems to work. I will rebuild the box,..again for the correctly built box.. Good thing MDF is cheap huh!! Plus, Like i said, now the FC has a box to!

Thanks again Damon. It is still a better starting point than I had!! I'll be test bumpin at the end of the day.
BTW: Your rear wheel bearing thread is still soo helpfull to people. I have linked it a few times in the last week One of the good ol' boys you!
Dave

zack4173

iTrader: (3)

Damn that definately looks like good quality nice work.