Custom FD Sub box- *lots of pics*
#1
Custom FD Sub box- *lots of pics*
Finally, after 5 days or so of breathing in fumes from MDF, fiberglass resis, paint, and laquer, the project is finally finished and installed. I wanted to put in 2 10" audiobahns while losing as little cargo space as possible.
The only thing that I don't like about the install is the textured black anti-sway bar on the blue gloss box. If anyone has any ideas to fix this let me know.
If you want to post just to tell me that it'll sound bad just because they're front-firing and not rear-firing, don't waste your time. I've been installing subs and sound systems for 6 years in dozens of vehicles and orientation has absolutely no effect on the sound that can be distinguished by the human ear.
Start with the speaker rings:
Next comes the box:
The only thing that I don't like about the install is the textured black anti-sway bar on the blue gloss box. If anyone has any ideas to fix this let me know.
If you want to post just to tell me that it'll sound bad just because they're front-firing and not rear-firing, don't waste your time. I've been installing subs and sound systems for 6 years in dozens of vehicles and orientation has absolutely no effect on the sound that can be distinguished by the human ear.
Start with the speaker rings:
Next comes the box:
#2
Secure the speaker rings to the box. I used three pieces of coat hanger wire per ring. Some people don't cut the inside of the back ring out so the can use a 2x4 screwed into it to hold it in place. I think it's difficult to cut out the ring after it's glassed, so I prefer my coat hanger method.
Next, stretch a piece of cotton or spandex over the box and staple around the edges. I used an old (clean) swatch of cotton from a pillowcase. Spandex can sometimes sag after you resin it if you don't pull it tight enough, and it's also more expensive. The cotton can sometimes be harder to stretch tight enough, but if you do it right, I think it sags less and produces cleaner lines than spandex.
Next, stretch a piece of cotton or spandex over the box and staple around the edges. I used an old (clean) swatch of cotton from a pillowcase. Spandex can sometimes sag after you resin it if you don't pull it tight enough, and it's also more expensive. The cotton can sometimes be harder to stretch tight enough, but if you do it right, I think it sags less and produces cleaner lines than spandex.
#3
Next, saturate the cloth with fiberglass resin, paying extra special attention to the spots where the fabric comes in contact with wood. You need to ensure that the MDF absorbs a good amount of resin so the fiberglass doesn't crack or separate from the box after it dries.
Add fiberglass in small pieces. I used pieces varying from 1x6 to 4x4 depending on what part of the box I was glassing and how many contours there were. The flatter the area, the larger the piece you can use. I used three overlapping layers and then one more final coat of resin. Sanding is very important after this step. Bondo is then used to fill in the largest imperfections and mold the contours to the most desired shape.
After a few coats of bondo in between sanding, use glazing putty to fill in the smaller holes and scratches. (by the way, after the second coat of bondo, I switched to wet sanding with about 220 grit sandpaper).
Add fiberglass in small pieces. I used pieces varying from 1x6 to 4x4 depending on what part of the box I was glassing and how many contours there were. The flatter the area, the larger the piece you can use. I used three overlapping layers and then one more final coat of resin. Sanding is very important after this step. Bondo is then used to fill in the largest imperfections and mold the contours to the most desired shape.
After a few coats of bondo in between sanding, use glazing putty to fill in the smaller holes and scratches. (by the way, after the second coat of bondo, I switched to wet sanding with about 220 grit sandpaper).
#4
When you're satisfied, it's time to use a high build primer. After I started priming, I switched my sandpaper to 1000 grit and hand wet-sanded. After three coats of primer, I put on three coats of blue metal flake, wet sanding with 2000 grit in between coats. After that, 2 coats of clear coat laquer, wet sanding with 2000 grit in between. After that, it was just time to install the terminal cups, subs and amp and thowing it into the car:
If anyone has any questions, needs higher res photos (or more of them, I only posted about half of them), let me know. Also, if anyone has any ideas for that rear sway bar, I'd be interested. Thanks.
If anyone has any questions, needs higher res photos (or more of them, I only posted about half of them), let me know. Also, if anyone has any ideas for that rear sway bar, I'd be interested. Thanks.
Last edited by usma_2006; 06-19-05 at 10:38 PM.
#5
Looks good, my question is though if you have been in the car audio business for over 6 years why would you choose a pyramid amp?
That is interesting your experiences with rear firing, front firing subs, I have had much different experiences with my car but I guess I won't start any sort of debate since im sure you know way more than me.
Any chance you have some numbers? What kinda DB's does it put out? How does it sound?
That is interesting your experiences with rear firing, front firing subs, I have had much different experiences with my car but I guess I won't start any sort of debate since im sure you know way more than me.
Any chance you have some numbers? What kinda DB's does it put out? How does it sound?
#7
Dan, I just installed it today so I haven't done any tests on it, which brings me to Shorty's comment, I would have made the box deeper, but like I said, I was looking for bass while still maximizing cargo space. Plus I'm really looking for tighter bass instead of boomy bass, and I need to enter the car into some shows to keep my sponsors happy, which is why I went with the pyramid (which really isn't a bad amp to tell you the truth. I had a pyramid in my old car and put one in my sister's and was happy with both). The pyramid matches the color scheme better and I don't need the ridiculous power to push the audiobahns to the limit because it's already loud enough.
Thanks for the comments though, hopefully it makes as much sense to other people as it seemed to make to me.
Thanks for the comments though, hopefully it makes as much sense to other people as it seemed to make to me.
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#8
Pictures are not working. You've seemed to already used your limit. I suggest using Photobucket or have somebody host them. Even better is if you host them on the forum that way in the future the pics will stay.
#11
Sorry, I only have 10 megs per 24 hours and this page was hit pretty hard in just a couple hours. Is photobucket free? I'm using villagephoto.com, which has a free service.
#18
Custom FD Sub box- *lots of pics* FIXED LINKS
Sorry guys, I knew that villagephotos had a bandwidth limit, but after I reduced the photos I didn't think I'd hit it so soon. With 120+ hits in less than 12 hours though, it adds up fast.
Here are the same photos (I think) uploaded to photobucket. I even threw in a pic of the car with the targa off. If anyone wants different angles let me know. I'd throw in some more, but it's been raining here for the past week and the car doesn't look its best right now and I won't take pictures until I wash it today or tomorrow.
Here are the same photos (I think) uploaded to photobucket. I even threw in a pic of the car with the targa off. If anyone wants different angles let me know. I'd throw in some more, but it's been raining here for the past week and the car doesn't look its best right now and I won't take pictures until I wash it today or tomorrow.
#24
Apex: Thanks for the compliment on the sub box... I know not everyone is a fan of the targa, but it's perfect for me. I don't track the car and I'm never pushing past 115 or 120, the chassis is reinforced, so it works for me.
Racer1: the owner before the previous owner had the targa cut by a custom shop in CA. They cut the roof, doors, relocated the dome light to behind the targa, and reinforced the chassis. The roof fits perfectly right behind the rear seats if I need to bring it somewhere with me, but usually I just leave the top at home. I just got finished working on some custom draw latches that'll let me take it on and off a bit faster than screwing or unscrewing four bolts.
Racer1: the owner before the previous owner had the targa cut by a custom shop in CA. They cut the roof, doors, relocated the dome light to behind the targa, and reinforced the chassis. The roof fits perfectly right behind the rear seats if I need to bring it somewhere with me, but usually I just leave the top at home. I just got finished working on some custom draw latches that'll let me take it on and off a bit faster than screwing or unscrewing four bolts.