So, I've recently purchased a wide-body kit and have been considering molding in the rear quarter panels. The body shop that is doing the work is telling me I shouldn't do it because it will crack.

The owners specific words: "It is going to crack! Maybe not in the first year, but it will crack. Just look at all the cobras we have here, they all use rivets. It's the cool thing. You're young, don't worry about all that molding crap, us old guys like the look of rivets."

His above statements makes me believe he's never done it before, and doesn't want to because it's to much work. Even his price of an extra $2500 to do the work including labor and paint seems redicolous since I've already paid him $4k to repaint the car.

Now I understand the physics of metal. In the elements metal expands and contracts where as the plastic (FRP) fenders won't, causing there to be movement hence cracking the paint.

Do any of you auto body specialists have experience with molding kits in, and have you found a way to prevent this some how? He's saying that he will use fiber glass, and some sort of new "glue" that will keep it on the car and maybe prevent it.

If not, am I looking a something very significant where it cracks, and I'm stuck with removing the whole fender and remolding all over?


I appreciate any help you guys can give me.


Thanks,
Mike W.

 

Here's a pics of the kit courtesy of Evo-R. I've circled the area in question. Car is painted black as well.





Wanted look...

 

He is correct. I have seen it happen on multiple cars. It's not the kit that will crack, but the bondo/filler used to cover the rivets and seam.

IMO it looks better molded, but if you plan to track the car or use it in any form that would twist/tweak the body from accel then I would stick with the rivets.

If it's a show car, then go for the molded look as it will most likely be a trailer quee.

Done properly and with care, the rivets can actually look really good.

 

the bondo filler will crack as arron said. if you use a speical body bonder and then flush it over with fiberglass and clean it up with bondo then it will hold up, your fiberglass kit will spider crack before your bonding liine will. My rear is bonded and it has no crack anywhere in the palce where it meets the body, it has spider crack on the acutal fiberglass body itself but not the bonding, i dont know what they used but they said it was for temp bonding of metals (like frames and such). sort of like jbwelb but you can used it for metal and fiberglass.

 

Fusor adhesive is what your talking about, good stuff. I glue 1/4 panels on with it.

I paint cars for a living, and the guy was telling you the truth. No matter what you do, it WILL crack. How rough you are on your car is going to determine how long it takes. Personally, I would go with what the guy said. Get some poilshed rivets, countersink the holes so they aren't sticking out, and rivet it on.

 

^ What he said.

Beyond that, you could have a full fiberglass rear end made...and mount that on there as its own piece. Or you know...go completely nuts and just have the whole car made in CF. Expensive...but awesome.

Ive never used fusor...heard about it though. I may have to try some now...the question is where.