Interior / Exterior / Audio Talk about interior and exterior mods including audio.

BOOM!BOOM! to my ZOOM!ZOOM!

Old Nov 4, 2004 | 09:36 AM
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From: aberdeen , south dakota
BOOM!BOOM! to my ZOOM!ZOOM!

I'm looking for opinions from people on whether or not they agree with this style of audio system for the rx-7,

1)custom fitted , full rear fiberglass enclosed box
2)two 15" cdt audio subs
3)two 5,000 watt cdt audio watercooled amps
4)bass porthole centered facing front of vehicle
5)duel bypass
6)6-disc cd changer w/cdt audio graphic equalizer

fc has been covered in dynamat, frame has been filled with blow-in insulation
everything is nice and tight , no rattles , no bad vibrations.
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 09:36 AM
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From: aberdeen , south dakota
bump bump to the boom boom
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 09:41 AM
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dynamat = thx
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 09:42 AM
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Personally I think 2 15's would be WAY too much in an RX7. It's a small enclosed car, anything you put in there is gonna amplify pretty damn well. Furthermore, I think all of that is a lot of weight you're adding to the rear of the car which I wouldn't do personally.

If I were to ever add subs to my rx7, it'd be 1 or 2 W3 10's with some good speakers. No huge special fiberglass box, just a normal one that will work with the w3's. I think that'd be more than enough, but that's just my opinion.
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DEZERTE
dynamat = thx
Peal and Seal = thx
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 09:44 AM
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Werd. Id just get some nice speakers, and some conservative sized, decent subs.
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by dDuB
Peal and Seal = thx
Ive never heard of peal and seal.. is it cheaper than dynamat/fatmat?
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 09:47 AM
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actually what I would do is strip the hole interior and hang some 6x9's from the roll cage you put in
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 09:47 AM
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Skip the cd changer & go with a head unit that reads CD-RW's.
You can burn 5-6 hours of you favorite MP3's on a disposable disc & they DON'T SKIP!!
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SureShot
Skip the cd changer & go with a head unit that reads CD-RW's.
You can burn 5-6 hours of you favorite MP3's on a disposable disc & they DON'T SKIP!!

Hes right
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by SureShot
Skip the cd changer & go with a head unit that reads CD-RW's.
You can burn 5-6 hours of you favorite MP3's on a disposable disc & they DON'T SKIP!!
I have a player that reads those, I really ought to start burning music into MP3 form.
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by DEZERTE
Ive never heard of peal and seal.. is it cheaper than dynamat/fatmat?
It's roofing material that is made of the exact same material as dynamat. It has aluminum backing with tar on the mounting surface, exactly like dynamat does. It's a lot cheaper than dynamat and people have been using it for years instead of dynamat or other sound deadening materials. In reality all the sound deadening things are almost the exact same, all the tar based ones anyways, and roofing material is made the exact same way, again the tar based ones. My friend and I soundproofed his mustang entirely with peal and seal for a fraction of the cost, no more rattles and significantly reduced road noise.
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by hondahater
actually what I would do is strip the hole interior and hang some 6x9's from the roll cage you put in
A man after my own heart. My "system" is this. Removed front stock speakers, rear stock speakers still in place, single din CDA-9811 alpine mp3 cd player. I bump that music harder than any of you know
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by dDuB
It's roofing material that is made of the exact same material as dynamat. It has aluminum backing with tar on the mounting surface, exactly like dynamat does. It's a lot cheaper than dynamat and people have been using it for years instead of dynamat or other sound deadening materials. In reality all the sound deadening things are almost the exact same, all the tar based ones anyways, and roofing material is made the exact same way, again the tar based ones. My friend and I soundproofed his mustang entirely with peal and seal for a fraction of the cost, no more rattles and significantly reduced road noise.
WOW thats what i like to hear. when i get outta class, im gonna be searching for this for sure on the web S:FSDF, how exciting.
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by tierynetixgraphics
I'm looking for opinions from people on whether or not they agree with this style of audio system for the rx-7,

1)custom fitted , full rear fiberglass enclosed box
2)two 15" cdt audio subs
3)two 5,000 watt cdt audio watercooled amps
4)bass porthole centered facing front of vehicle
5)duel bypass
6)6-disc cd changer w/cdt audio graphic equalizer

fc has been covered in dynamat, frame has been filled with blow-in insulation
everything is nice and tight , no rattles , no bad vibrations.
if you are going to try to sell some thing like that on this board you better but it all on a scale and see how much it weights first

ppl on this board are **** retentive about weight
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 10:46 AM
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2 15's?? are you retarded? its an rx7 not a ****** Deville brother!
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 10:47 AM
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i had 2 12's and it was sooooo loud in there, i went to one 12 sounds very nice and clean! the car is way to open and small for 2 15's
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 12:21 PM
  #18  
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peel-n-seal

Where do you get peel-n-seal
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 12:50 PM
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I have one 15 and it is way much!! I hope your planning on doing this and not just blowing smoke. Water cooled amps. Your talking big money!!!
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 01:49 PM
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2 15's?...you'll def. be one of the kids the grandma's shake their fists at screaming about how you'll go def before your 25.
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by IaMtHeRuThLeSs1
2 15's?...you'll def. be one of the kids the grandma's shake their fists at screaming about how you'll go def before your 25.
Hey... old people and mothers shake their fists at me constantly when I'm bumpin it in my SUV

I'm still not def though
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 06:16 PM
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yea i have 4 10"'s in the back of my FC and when there all the way up ur head like melts if u stick it in the cabin. o-ver-kill
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Old Nov 6, 2004 | 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by tierynetixgraphics
two 5,000 watt cdt audio watercooled amps
Are you serious? Two 5,000 watt amps...Do you have any clue how much money it will take just to prepare your car for those amps? You are going to have to run dual 0/1 guage wire from one hell of a battery (separate from the one running your car). Your going to need some badass fuses, one HUGE alternator, and not to mention a capacitor.

New battery = $100
Alternator = $300-700
Wire = $50
Capacitor = $100-150

Well...I hope your rich. Im not trying to put you down or anything. It would be a hell of a system, just a bit much if you ask me. Good luck with it though.
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Old Nov 6, 2004 | 05:39 PM
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don't listen to these guys...my old '85 rx7 had 4 12" subs in there...it did way alot, but the car was more for fun than a fast car...i had no engine mods. i'd still like to go louder...the highest db i hit was 142.6. i just bought a 85 rx7 again, and plan on putting 4 12" again (alpine type r), but this time, im going to invest more into mids and highs. alpine type r 5 1/4 2 ways in the kick panels, and alpine 6.5 in the rear (not sure yet, any ideas)? my old system, and my new system was an enclosed box that took up all the space in the rear of the car, from behind the storage bins, to the back, and just high enough to clear where the rear hatch closed at the back. i may even go 4 15's, but that might be too much. go for the killer bass, you won't regret it!!!!
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Old Nov 6, 2004 | 05:52 PM
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142.6 with 4 12's? You either needed more power, better subs, or proper tuning because thats crap. I hit 160 dB in my SUV with 2 Kicker Solobaric L7 12's (the square subs) with an rf bd1000.1 amp tested out to 1207 watts, yellowtop battery, 5.0 ferrad cap, 0 gauge wiring for the power/ground for amps and subs, diamond components in the front, mb quart components in the rear, rf 700 watt amp for speakers. No problem hitting in the 150's and peaking at 160 dB when it wasn't even fully tuned for loudness, it was more tuned for sound quality.
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