The answer to peeling dash panels
01-12-08, 05:56 AM
#53
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oh my god that's disgusting
i redid ALL of my interior panels tonight with plasti dip and the car looks freaking brand new for it, check this out for comparison (don't mind the ratty looking shift **** and missing boot, i'm experimenting with something!!)
interior shot before I sprayed the AC panel:
before
after
i redid ALL of my interior panels tonight with plasti dip and the car looks freaking brand new for it, check this out for comparison (don't mind the ratty looking shift **** and missing boot, i'm experimenting with something!!)
interior shot before I sprayed the AC panel:
before
after
01-13-08, 03:24 PM
#55
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I just recently bought my FD and had to completely recondition the interior. I've summed it up with the analogy that it looked like the previous owner got a 4 year old, gave him a bucket of dirt, a squirt gun, and a butterknife, and locked him in the car for a week straight. The ensuing chaos was that I had to recondition just about everything that was black. The tan just needed a serious scrub down. The only thing that survived in great condition was the actual main dash panel and glovebox area.
I had to sand the hell out of the (black) hard plastic parts to get the gashes out, but I used something called SEM Vinyl Dye. It was about 10 bucks a can and is an aerosol vinyl dye that works on hard plastics, vinyl interior and even leather seats and carpets. (Though, I wouldn't use it personally)
It's not designed to drastically change the color of a part. Only restore it back to it's original color. With the sandless primer (another 10 bucks per can) you don't have to sand it down if you don't want to. Just got to clean it really good.
The result is identical to what Paradoxbox (posted above) shows. It takes about 2 minutes for the primer to flash and about 3-5 minutes for each coat of actual paint/dye to dry. No clearcoat needed unless you really want to. It's really resistant to scuffs as I've tested it on a dummy piece. It's as resistant to scratches as one could hope for, and is guranteed for a lifetime not to peel or crack (so long as it's treated well.) It will fade with time, but so will everything else.
I've had this stuff on the interior of my Impreza for the better part of 3 years now and it still looks good. It has a little natural wear and tear, but no cracking, peeling, or otherwise tearing. That's on both vinyl and hard plastics.
Just a word to the wise though, if you want to strip off the paint from something that is hard to sand (like the gauge bezel) then try not to use Easy-Off oven cleaner or any other de-greasing agent. It tends to get sucked into the plastic. While it won't destroy the plastic, SEM doesn't take kindly to it when it goes on (even when cleaned really well) and will tend to show fade spots where the paint stripper has built up. I learned that the hard way. Ended up sanding the hell out of the gauge bezel to get it to go away completely.
Also, it doesn't really like bondo. It'll paint over it, but because it's not designed to completely recolor something no matter how many coats you put on it, it won't mask the fact that a part might have bondo (regardless if it's the red or blue kind) but it'll get pretty close.
I had a nasty chunk that was busted off of the drivers side door panel and while it looks 10x better now, you can still tell it's been bondo'd if you look closely.
I had to sand the hell out of the (black) hard plastic parts to get the gashes out, but I used something called SEM Vinyl Dye. It was about 10 bucks a can and is an aerosol vinyl dye that works on hard plastics, vinyl interior and even leather seats and carpets. (Though, I wouldn't use it personally)
It's not designed to drastically change the color of a part. Only restore it back to it's original color. With the sandless primer (another 10 bucks per can) you don't have to sand it down if you don't want to. Just got to clean it really good.
The result is identical to what Paradoxbox (posted above) shows. It takes about 2 minutes for the primer to flash and about 3-5 minutes for each coat of actual paint/dye to dry. No clearcoat needed unless you really want to. It's really resistant to scuffs as I've tested it on a dummy piece. It's as resistant to scratches as one could hope for, and is guranteed for a lifetime not to peel or crack (so long as it's treated well.) It will fade with time, but so will everything else.
I've had this stuff on the interior of my Impreza for the better part of 3 years now and it still looks good. It has a little natural wear and tear, but no cracking, peeling, or otherwise tearing. That's on both vinyl and hard plastics.
Just a word to the wise though, if you want to strip off the paint from something that is hard to sand (like the gauge bezel) then try not to use Easy-Off oven cleaner or any other de-greasing agent. It tends to get sucked into the plastic. While it won't destroy the plastic, SEM doesn't take kindly to it when it goes on (even when cleaned really well) and will tend to show fade spots where the paint stripper has built up. I learned that the hard way. Ended up sanding the hell out of the gauge bezel to get it to go away completely.
Also, it doesn't really like bondo. It'll paint over it, but because it's not designed to completely recolor something no matter how many coats you put on it, it won't mask the fact that a part might have bondo (regardless if it's the red or blue kind) but it'll get pretty close.
I had a nasty chunk that was busted off of the drivers side door panel and while it looks 10x better now, you can still tell it's been bondo'd if you look closely.
04-16-08, 04:44 AM
#58
Lost You in the Rear View
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Any tips on how to seperate HVAC controls from AC panel? I unscrewed everything but it wont come off. Too afraid to pry.
here's my lil write up on my interior "recovery project"
i used rustoleum textured spray paint for plastic. has a picture of a patio chair on the can. i did my gauge cluster, A/C and center console. only lightly sand the "peels" with 800 grit sandpaper so they blend with the remaining laminate or else it just further peels and u make more work for urself. the texture paint works great, dries super fast, and is very resistant to scratches. cheap too ($2.50 a can). eventually i will tackle the doors when i have the patience to remove the pieces
08-24-08, 08:07 PM
#59
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Well here's my $0.02 to this Plasti-Dip solution. I subscribed to this thread when it was started because I really needed to freshen up my peeling panels. I bought the plastidip and stared at the can for the last year or so. Got the urge to do the project this weekend...
I am really dissapointed with the results actually. I wanted this to work so bad! I am really handy and have been through A LOT of paint projects and used A LOT of different paint products. I prepped the panels with some good 600 grit sanding and then a good cleaning.
When I sprayed the plastidip and created a very wet surface, ineveitibly - bubbles and 'texture' would start to show up. You'll start to believe that the few little areas where you see texture in the paint will even out as it dries (like other paint) but it does not. It literally dries exactly as it looks wet. I went through 3 entire cans trying over and over to get it right - and had bad results. I hate to bust up a good thread - but for me, this did not work. I really hoped it would because some of the pictures posted really look good.
Also - the dried product (after 12 hours) didn't match up at all to the finish on some new '94+ parts that I ordered. I have a new center console and a new door pocket (with lid) and the finish just didn't match up.
Maybe it has something to do with the weather or humidity - I don't know. Today was about as perfect weather-wise as you could ask for and I followed every direction on the can and all the suggestions here in this thread.
So I used some leftover automotive paint that I used on my sideskirts. It's bumper black - and I'll report back on how it came out. It's a 3 step process and my sideskirts still look awesome one year later.
I hope this helps.
I am really dissapointed with the results actually. I wanted this to work so bad! I am really handy and have been through A LOT of paint projects and used A LOT of different paint products. I prepped the panels with some good 600 grit sanding and then a good cleaning.
When I sprayed the plastidip and created a very wet surface, ineveitibly - bubbles and 'texture' would start to show up. You'll start to believe that the few little areas where you see texture in the paint will even out as it dries (like other paint) but it does not. It literally dries exactly as it looks wet. I went through 3 entire cans trying over and over to get it right - and had bad results. I hate to bust up a good thread - but for me, this did not work. I really hoped it would because some of the pictures posted really look good.
Also - the dried product (after 12 hours) didn't match up at all to the finish on some new '94+ parts that I ordered. I have a new center console and a new door pocket (with lid) and the finish just didn't match up.
Maybe it has something to do with the weather or humidity - I don't know. Today was about as perfect weather-wise as you could ask for and I followed every direction on the can and all the suggestions here in this thread.
So I used some leftover automotive paint that I used on my sideskirts. It's bumper black - and I'll report back on how it came out. It's a 3 step process and my sideskirts still look awesome one year later.
I hope this helps.
08-28-08, 07:06 PM
#61
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Ive got a realated tip.
For you guys with the 94+ texture, if you need to rejuvinate your parts, Duplicolor Bumper Coating exactly matches the factory hue and sheen on the 94+ texture. I painted some of my door trims with this and when holding them next to an unpainted piece, it's impossible to tell the difference. I went forward and painted all the hard plastic in my interior with this stuff and it looks great.
For you guys with the 94+ texture, if you need to rejuvinate your parts, Duplicolor Bumper Coating exactly matches the factory hue and sheen on the 94+ texture. I painted some of my door trims with this and when holding them next to an unpainted piece, it's impossible to tell the difference. I went forward and painted all the hard plastic in my interior with this stuff and it looks great.
05-07-09, 09:35 PM
#62
i am in the process of doing this and i got a question
this stuff peels off really easy about an hour after you spray it. will it harden alot better with more time?
Also, could you put a clear coat over this to make it more durable and maybe get a bit more shine out of it. Maybe a semi-gloss clear coat
this stuff peels off really easy about an hour after you spray it. will it harden alot better with more time?
Also, could you put a clear coat over this to make it more durable and maybe get a bit more shine out of it. Maybe a semi-gloss clear coat
05-19-09, 10:27 AM
#63
~My FD~
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All paint must cure completely (usually a few days - up to a few months depending what type of paint/hardener, etc is used). Once cured completely, it will be more durable (and able to use silicone or wax the surface if necessary -without problems).
As far as humidity, it can cause a whole mess of problems, as with all painting, if it is very humid, rainy or just a bad day it definitely will affect your paint job. You could immediately (while wet) take it to a less humid environment (air conditioned room), or use a heat gun or heat light to try to bake the water droplets out of the paint, and if mixing professional paint you could use a retarder (very slow reducer) to allow the paint to sit longer and hopefully dry the water out of the paint before it flashes (skins over). But it is by far best to wait for a nice day. Spring and fall have the best conditions to paint anything (not too wet ,not too dry, not too hot, not too cold). So shoot on a good day.
Hope this helps. Take your time and it should turn out fine.
As far as humidity, it can cause a whole mess of problems, as with all painting, if it is very humid, rainy or just a bad day it definitely will affect your paint job. You could immediately (while wet) take it to a less humid environment (air conditioned room), or use a heat gun or heat light to try to bake the water droplets out of the paint, and if mixing professional paint you could use a retarder (very slow reducer) to allow the paint to sit longer and hopefully dry the water out of the paint before it flashes (skins over). But it is by far best to wait for a nice day. Spring and fall have the best conditions to paint anything (not too wet ,not too dry, not too hot, not too cold). So shoot on a good day.
Hope this helps. Take your time and it should turn out fine.
10-11-09, 05:22 PM
#65
Canadiana... Eh?
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Has anyone painted thier dash panels with the GREY Duplicolor Bumper Paint?
I know a few people have done this in the black color. I wanted to see if anyone had done it in the grey color to mimic the SpiritR interior panels?
I am in the middle of doing a test piece on an old shifter piece. We'll see how it turns out.
I am in the middle of doing a test piece on an old shifter piece. We'll see how it turns out.
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