rzograbian

ok, this is what im getting soon:
3X JL Audio 10W6 V2's

there is a box and everything already made for it but i am wondering which amps i need to make it run correctly? i am thinking of using as much JL products as i can. also, i have no good speakers so i will need 4 speakers... any reccomendations?

also, i dont know much about car audio systems but i know i need an amp for the subs and an amp for the speakers. i know that the subs are rated at 400 watts (RMS) but i dont get the part where you need the amp to compensate with it. so, it has 1200 watts alltogether. so you need a 1200 watt amp to power them or what? or do you need one amp per sub or something?

here is the info on the subs:
Nominal Diameter: 10 inches (250 mm)
Continuous Power Handling: 400 Watts
Voice Coil: 2.75" diameter, 4-layer, Kapton former
Available Configurations: Dual 4 ohm only
Xmax (one-way, linear): 0.60" (15.2 mm)
Sealed Enclosure Range: 0.50-1.00 cu.ft. (14.0-28.0 liters)
Ported Enclosure Range: 0.75-1.25 cu.ft. (21.2-35.5 liters)


a firend of mine sugggested i go with one 1000/1 JL audio amp and one 300/4 JL audio amp.... is this correct?? if it is then how would a 1000 watt amp handle 1200 watts? or is it based on one amp?

PLZ HELP!!1 i have no idea where im going with this!!

Thanks a lot!

darkside7

iTrader: (12)

personally, i like diamond audio, or A/D/S for mids and highs. For amps, i would recomend Zapco.

DamonB

Get on ebay and find some ADS amps. Some of the sweetest sounding amplifiers ever made.

darkside7

iTrader: (12)

Agreed. one problem with that amp is that its not that powerful. thats the only drawback .

DamonB

People don't realize you don't need hundreds of watts if your amp is truly capable of real power. Granted if I were running 3 subs at 2 ohms or something I'd go bigger but it doesn't take near as much power as most think. It takes 10 times the power to be twice as loud and the far majority of amp's power ratings are merely wishful thinking.

If you need lots more power go hunting for some of the older Soundstream stuff. They were great too (but the new stuff is crap).

rzograbian

ok, i know about the brands but my question is the RMS needed to power the subs.... whats the minimum? whats the right wattage amp to power this system? can someone name a amp that would be perfect for my application??

Thanks for the help guy's!

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

Zapco rules. Been running their amps for the past 10 years.

pianoprodigy

If you wire the subs as shown, you will have a 2.67 ohm load. 400W RMS is the recommended power for EACH sub. Most "mono" amplifiers will quote the power output at 2 ohms. Since you will have a slightly higher than 2-ohm load, you should have somewhere around 1200W RMS for the subs to perform best. That is A LOT of power, and if you don't have an upgraded alternator, you will soon need one. As far as a recommendation for an amp, I don't really know. Like I said, that is a ton of power, and any good quality amp making that kind of power will be very expensive.

In addition, since your bass will be VERY loud with this setup, you should really look into getting some high-quality component speakers so that your highs and mids won't be entirely drowned out. You cannot expect to run your interior speakers of your head unit's amplifier and to have a balanced system. You will need an amplifier for your component speakers as well. You likely won't need 4 speakers. 2 speakers will probably be sufficient. This 2 v. 4 speakers debate is ongoing in car audio circles. I currently am running just component speakers in the doors and 2 JL 10W0s in the back. The sound is quite good. If you get the right component speakers for the doors, you will have great midbass response as well as nice midrange and highs. I picked Infinity Perfect 5.1 Component speakers which are not really known for their midbass, so that's the major thing I would change about my system.

I guess I could sum up all that I've said by saying that if you really want to run 3 10W6s, you are going to need a lot of amp to make them sound good, and if you want a quality, balanced system, you are going to have to do a lot more work than just adding an amp for your subs and throwing four speakers in the doors and rear panels.

DamonB

Yeah, especially in a small 2 seat car like the 7. I see absolutely no need for anything other than the front speakers. I run a Vifa component set and a single 10" JL and there is no need for anything else unless you just want to go deef Anything more is just for show IMO.

SpeedKing

iTrader: (4)

I had a post on ohm loads all typed out but "pianoprodigy" beat me to it. Roman, how are you planning on wiring your subs? In series (as above), or in parallel? Regarding the latter, three 4 ohm DVC subs = 0.66.

As already mentioned, getting an amp big enough and stable enough is going to be expensive.

JL's amps are good. Also, look into TRU Technology and U.S Amps:

http://www.trutechnology.com/

http://www.usamps.com/

An upgraded alternator is a good idea; a cap is as well. And forget about ever running a mini battery kit.

As far as speakers go, I'd also forego the rears. Run a good component or coaxial set up front w/ a lot of power to compensate for the 3 subs in the back. There are a lot of good brands out there. You're really going to have to go out and audition as many speakers you can and buy what sounds best to you. Keep in mind too that mounting depth in (non-BOSE) FDs is more or less 2.5" so you *will* be limited in what is going to fit.

pianoprodigy

An amp that would be stable down to 1/2 an ohm would be super expensive; however, I don't know if it would be any more expensive than a 2-ohm stable 1200W RMS amp.

I would be surprised if you don't need an upgraded alternator with an amp pushing that kind of power. I have a 200A alternator that makes 100A at idle, and that just barely keeps up with the load especially if I'm running the system hard without doing any "cruising" in order to charge the battery.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Word. I agree with everything said here ^.

rzograbian

im thinking of wiring them up in parallel.... also, im going to get capacitors so i dont need an upgraded alternator.... guys, this system is coming from an fd... he is running those 3 subs and a 1000/1 jl amp and a 500/4 for the speakers..... its a very loud and clean system!!! i will post pics if i can in the next week....

btw, my battery is a optima 51r relocated to therear bin. also, im most likely going to run a clarion in dash lcd screen for the head unit too...

Thx for all your help guy's...

oh, so i will need a 1200 rms amp? s if i get one lower than that, it wont work or it will?? i dont want to push the system to the MAX so lmk.....

DamonB

Caps cannot and do not support constant power consumption, only the battery and alternator do that. Caps only supply some extra "oomph" for a very brief moment before they themselves have to recharge and the energy that recharges them comes from...you guessed it: the battery and alternator.

Think of the battery as the "electricity reservoir" of the system. The system constantly tries to empty that reservoir and if it can empty it faster than the alternator can fill it you will slowly discharge that battery. Doesn't matter how many caps you add if the alternator cannot support the current drain on the battery you're going to discharge the battery.

pianoprodigy

Yep, Damon is correct. Also, you could run less power to your subs, but they will probably not sound nearly as good as they should. Honestly, you could probably give those subs close to 1600W RMS and they would perform well. 400W RMS each sub would be the equivalent of running 11:1 AFRs on an FD.

rzograbian

oh nice, AFR's..... something i understand!! thats not bad though but do i need more than 1200 for the subs or the speakers and subs? so either way, i need 2 amps is what im gettting at!

thanks again guy's!!

pianoprodigy

Correct. You will need two amps. One 2-channel amp to run the component speakers and one ~1200W RMS @ 2 ohm mono (ideally) amp to run the subs.

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

I am currently running two diamond m6 mk2 titanium cones rated at 800rms 12" running a 1500rms hifonics brutus amp. Have had no problems, sounds amazing, having shaken cars that are 2 cars down from me in my fd3s. Have had no problem with the alternator. I overdid it but my 2 12" m6 diamond audio will kill your 3 10w6. IMO jl is very over rated, granted their w7 is top 3 sub of all time but not for the cash. I would look into other subs, eclipse titaniums, their aluminums are nice, if your looking for more sq than spl than Id go with infinty kappa perfect. Anyway I have heard many w6 setups and was not impressed thats why I went with diamond. Diamond makes an INCREDIBLE component set speakers, they are a bit pricey at around $300 but they are amazing. Anyways good luck with your setup

rzograbian

yea, im not trying to be the loudest out there but want some decent sound quality.... i dont think however JL is overrated.... they make nice products or at least i think so.

i have a question about your brutus 1500 RMS amp, could i run that for my subs??? its 1500 amps and it should be ok no?

please let me know because i want to finish the sound system so i can start installing my single turbo!!

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

you could, just use the diagram posted on the previous page. Not sure someone should chip in on the ohm load, Im not sure that the 1500rms may be to much for the w6 rated at 400rms. I do not know how they run when they are over powered. They make a 100rms amp, ebay it for 200 brand new shipped. That would be a safer bet and cheaper.

pianoprodigy

http://jlaudio.com/subwoofers/RP_Chart.html

According to that chart, 500W RMS for each sub would be no problem.

Sickass7

JL's rms capacity is way underrated. I was running a crossfire 800 rms amp to two JL12w0's and they sounded awesome for 3 years until I sold it. You could actually run 17-1800 rms with those. Crossfire makes some excellent amplifiers so I would look into those. W7's are awesome sounding, but they weigh a TON. My little brother has a 12w7 in his 99 camaro z28 and it was a bear to lug around even before we made the box. The magnets on those are enormous.

BuffDaddy915

Yes that system is going to be loud. I'm currently running 2 12w7 V2's with 1 1000/1 JL amp in my Durango and its loud as s**t. I have a 5 farad cap, and you can watch my battery gauge drop when im not driving and sometimes even when im driving you can watch it go down. My lights dim pretty bad too. You'll need a better alt. for this, a good batt. But, its one of the better sounding subs I've heard. Good components are a must, especially if you burn music a lot. Sometimes even on a cd you can barely make out what the music is. I do have stock components which consist of Infinity Gold blah blah blah, but you'll need to balance your component outs with good amp/speakers for you to hear it.

BadAssRX-7

for headunits and amps (power) Im SOLD on kenwoods excelon stuff. I have there comp. deck( 3 rca outs no internal amps) and 2 excelon amps 1 is a 2 channel (subs) and the other is 1,2,3,4,5 or 6 channel bridgeable. The multi channel is running stock spots. the cool thing about the kenwood excelons is the head unit can control all the inputs and adjustments that the amps can do. so i can adjust x over points for all 3 rca outs, gains, fazes, db's 0 +6 or +12 and even open and close the amp faces and turn on the extra cooling fans. i like inf. kappa comp. and just reacently installed mb quarts comp's in my b series and im sold on them...just the price hurts a bit

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Umm...not to rag on you Roman, but I'm still trying to figure out how you're going to use three JL 10W6s in an FD? Do you have stock in hearing aids for when you go deaf in 2 days? I had two 8w7s, and those things were wayyyy too much for my FD. I now have a 12w6 and I actually am purposefully underdriving, because that thing would be enough for my entire living room, or even my entire house lol. I understand ppl want things for show and what not, but that's a LOT of show w/ very little function, because unless you get some INCREDIBLE front speakers amplified to the max, the drone of your subs is pretty much gonna drown out the entire car's sound stage. That's unless you lower the bass soo much to the point that, well, I'd have to ask why you went with 3 subs in the first place? (That's exactly why I ditched the 8w7s)

I can't speak for everyone, and I don't know everyone else's setup, but I haven't seen anyone else on the forum post that they have a w6 or a w7 in their FD. I've had both. I really think a lot of people hear about how great these subs are, and recommend and buy them, but just don't realize that it's pure overkill. My 12w6V2 is overkill and THEN some. I wouldn't recommend ppl going that route at all...it's like buying a fully functional $1900 CF spoiler when your car tops out at 70mph. You won't even have a chance to begin using the product's full capabilities and potential. My old 10" Alpine Type R hit sooo freakin hard because it was tuned right and powered enough, and the FD is so freakin small. Just ask Gene (RX7Rage). He has my sub and enclosure in his FD now too, and thought it was awesome - and that was untuned. When I saw him at JGTC, I tuned that bad boy for him, and it hits soo much harder and crisper now. So all I'm saying is, if I can save you from committing the mistake I made, don't think you need anything even NEAR the best in terms of subs to get good bass in an FD. I'd put a LOT more money into your speakers however, simply because the sound stage in the FD sux as it is. That's where the bulk of my money went to, and the sound in my car is PHENOMENAL (now that I just recently had it tuned right).

Just my $0.02
~Ramy