Guys I kind of narrowed down my options to the ones listed below:

Option 1 (50 RMS)
Amp: Alpine MRP-F300
Front: Alpine Type S, SPS-171A 6.5" components or DLS equivalent
Rear: Alpine Type S, SPS-69C3 6x9" speakers or DLS equivalent

Option 2 (100RMS)
Amp: Alpine MRP-F600
Front: DLS MS6A 6.5" components
Rear: DLS 6x9" speakers

Anyone have experience with 6x9s and components in the rear ? Which one should I go for and why? Btw I won't use subs.

Option 2 costs almost double of option 1 so my other question is, is there a big difference between a 50rms and a 100rms set-up?

It was very easy to get great quality sound from my MR2 because inside the car was small like a natural sub woofer box. I don't know this is the case with the RX7 as the boot area may spoil the sub-box feel a bit. But I'm thinking it'd still be more acoustic friendly then a sedan, which means I may not need to spend lots to get quality sound, in other words 50rms set-up may be sufficient????

 

I have option 1 Alpine MRP F300 Amp, with polk components, sounds really good. The real challenge is dynamatting the right parts to keep everything from vibrating. It's not enough bass in my opinion. It provides good mid range, but the system still lacks the low punch. I ordered an infinity bass link, waiting for it to get here to install it.

 

So you have 6 or 6.5" polk components F & R? Do you recommend that over the 6x9s for the rear cause I've been told to go 6x9s in the back for little more bass.

Yeah dynamatting will be a challenge until finding the right parts, I was thinking today that even in stock form lots of parts in our cars prone to rattling like door handles etc. so with any kind of loud speakers it'll be worse.

Where are you going to fit the Infinity Basslink? I don't think there is room for it to stay upright in the boot (maybe if you remove the boot tray or whatever it's called), no room behind the seats either.

 

Edit: Will it be ok to put it flat in the boot? Because if that's the case then I'll also be considering something very similar to your set up. And thank you very much for telling me about this product

 

The brackets in the kit allow vertical or horizontal mounting. It's designed for small cars and I had a friend with one in an S-10 which is a very small truck cab and it provided very good bass.

I'm going to mount it horizontal to the floor directly behind the driver seat in the "boot"

I have the Polk DB series 6.5 components in the door and a polk panel speaker in the rear, I get more mid range from the door then I do from the panel. From what I've read the correct way to setup your sound is to use the rear speakers for staging only, which really means you shouldn't use a 6x9 there but a panel speaker with a small woofer.

The bottom line is I'm very happy with the setup. I currently have a sub in the back but it's too big, it's a 10 inch sony slim line sealed truck box and a Kenwood excelon 800 watt amp. It's too "boomy", I took it out of my jeep to see if it would fit/sound good in the back of the FD and it really doesn't. It takes up too much room and it just overwhelms you with bass.

I think this infinity basslink is going to be perfect for my setup, amazon has them on sale for 150 dollars + Free shipping! You can't beat that deal.

 

My 2 cents. Spend the extra money on a quality set of front components. I've had a set of Alpine Type R's amp powered and they were very clean and clear. Loved them. The rears are a toss up. I'd just use 5 1/4's but 6x9's work too. Rears arent really important except for a little fill sound. Having components in the front and rear is overkill and actually sound like **** if you are passing all the same frequencies to them all. I learned the hard way. Any simple 2-way coaxial speaker will sound fine for the most part.

My recommendation for an amp is a 3 or 5 channel. That way you can power your interior speakers and also a sub at any time. I had a Kicker 5-channel for years that worked great. Pushed a 10" sub fine. Just depends on what speakers you get to what amp you get. You can wire the speakers to 2 or 4 Ohms depending on what setup you end up with.

And as far as the Infinity Basslink goes, I have to give that a big thumbs down. Never really heard any prefab setup that sounds all that great. You would be much better off buying a smaller sub and building/buying a correct size box to fit your type of music taste. A box is just important as the sub selection. Also, fine tuning of the amp has a lot to do with it as well if you don't have an amp with a variable gain on it. Bass in some music will ovewhelm while not be enough in others.

Everyone's taste is different and everyone will tell you different opinions. I highly recommend an amp with a sub output though. Less wiring for power and just easier and simpler all around. Doesnt sound like you are a huge bass guy so it will work very well for you as most 5 channel amps dont supply more than 200W on the sub. Perfect for a single sub setup and all your interiors.

 

Size and space is more important to me then bass quality, the Basslink fits the bill, with the 10 inch sony slim line in there now (sealed box, very small) it still takes up too much room and it is too much bass for the interior space of an FD.

According to Fedex, my basslink should be waiting for me when I get home from work today. I'm going to install it and I'll report back if I'm happy with it or not.

 

What's the difference between 2ohms and 4ohms in speakers and amps etc. Which one is better?

I am definitely going for a good quality amp and good quality 6.5inch components in the front. Just was not sure if I should get 6x9s or another pair of 6 or 6.5 inch components in the rear.

After I took some measurements in the boot, I put the sub idea in the shelf for a while. Infinity basslink sounds appealing but I dont think that critical for me atm.

 

Most interior speakers are 4 Ohms. If you look at amplifier ratings, they always give you a power rating when wired at 2 or 4 Ohms loads. How you wire is up to you. You will get less power to speakers at 4 Ohms, but less of a load on your amplifier as well. You can actually wire a set of components in parallel to 2 Ohms and use only one output off an amp rather than 2 outputs off the amp. Subwoofers have sets of voice coils each being 2 or 4 Ohms which enable you again to run different amounts of power from your amp. If you are not familiar with speaker wiring, I would stick to single 4 Ohm speakers and call it a day. You will not overload an amp if all is wired at 4 Ohms.

I'm putting too much info in here for what you are looking for. If you are not looking for a sub, I still feel you should get a 3 or 5-channel amp which allows you to run all your speakers at 2 or 4 Ohms and add a sub later. As for the rears that you spoke of, just get a set of coaxials that fit and put more attention to the fronts.

 

No, the info is all clear thank you. Looks like I'll go with:

Alpine MRP-F600 amp
DLS MS6A 6.5inch components FR
Matching 100RMS rated 6x9s Rear,

That's what the sound system shop guy recommended anyway but his reasoning was because I'm not going to run a sub, 6x9's will give a touch more bass then components in the rear otherwise if I was going to run a sub, he recommended components all around.

 

Ya know what? That thing is alot bigger then I remember it being. It's still smaller then my previous setup.

I'm much happier with the sound coming out of it. It sounds very clean, over all I'm happy with it, but it does take up alot of space.

 

Well after you told me about the basslink, I got excited so I found it's measurements went to my car and did some measuring and quickly I changed my mind. It looks small in pics but it's still big for our cars. It won't fit to the deepest part of the boot with an amp like alpine mrp-f600 on the side, and even with a smaller amp it's still a tight fit.

Free air subs could've been an option, we could behind the rear seat or trim but our glass hatch and thin boot tray won't help a good job of acting as a sub box, a sedan car would be better for that. Another option could've been Kenwood wOOx for me, but not available in Turkey.

So for me, for the time being, speakers F+R and an amp is all, but I'm glad it worked out for you and your enjoying the basslink. I read some reviews and watched some youtube videos, it looks promising.

Infinity Basslink vs. Kenwood wOOx:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DN2wB2w...s_reviews.html

 

2ohm vs 4ohm. Just impedance. 2ohm is more powerful and delivers better sound quality but it's hard on the amp. most people just wire for 4ohms or 8ohm.

here's the best diagram i could find since my fav site is down

the total load depends on the impedence of the subs. but the top pic is for a low load 8 ohms and the bottom is for 2 ohms. and some subs have two sets of terminals. but you shouldn't have to worry about this since you're staying away from any serious bass.

 

I'm going to have to disagree with jshiz on this.

Think of impedence in terms of efficiency ... a speaker driven at 2 ohm will deliver more volume than a speaker driven at 4 ohm using the same amount of power. However, a higher impedence speaker delivers more detail.

Home theater systems are generally 8 ohm, whereas car audio is 4 ohm or 2 ohm because efficiency is more important than detail in the noiser environment of a car with one tenth of the voltage supply of a home.

jshiz is correct that in order to run at 2 ohm, you need to make sure the amp is designed to handle that load because the amp is being asked create more volume with less power.

 

Pretty much how I would do things, if it was a "economical" sound system. Front staging is the most important thing, when setting a sound system, rears should only be used as "rear fills", and highs should not be part of it IMHO.
Yes, and amp will put out more watts at 2ohms than at 4ohms (assuming the amp is stable at those ohms, and that you can keep the voltage to it stable). Sound quality is a total different animal, and 99% of the time, sound quality will be better at the standard ohms.

 

If you're still looking for a sub, Stereo Integrity has just come out with their new thin sub. Granted you'll have to buy yourself a separate amp (a Pioneer GM-D8500M should do the trick), the pair should fit comfortably in the trunk and deliver more than enough bass for the car.

As far as the quality, I've heard both the BM and JL Audio TW5 installed in an FC and was far more impressed with the BM's performance--especially considering the dramatic cost difference between the two.

EDIT: Here's the link http://www.stereointegrity.com/bm.php

 

I decided to go with the following set-up, I haven't bought all the parts yet but will let you guys know once I'm finished and hopefully add some pics.

Head unit: JVC KD-SX998R
Front speakers: Alpine Type-R (SPR-17S) 6.5" components
Rear speakers: N/A
Subwoofer: Alpine Type-R (SWR-1042d or 1022d) 10" sub or Rockford Fosgate P3 slim/shallow depending on fitment
Amplifier for speakers: Alpine MRP-F600
Amplifier for sub: Alpine MRP-M500