6.5" rounds in FD front?
#26
the last thing to decide is where to mount the 4 tweeters. i really dont want to cut holes in the door panels and the rear panels but if i have to i have to. i wont be upgrading the system after this (unless something happens to break). with these speakers i also have the option to mount the tweeter as a coaxial setup. if you look at the picture the cone in the center of the woofers can be removed and a mount for the tweeters can be installed. i just wonder how it going to sound.
If you must, mount the tweeter on the cone in the rears. For the fronts, I def. wouldn't cut the door panels, given that you can't replace 'em (they're discontinued). I'd mount the front tweeters on the inside triangles where the sideview mirrors are. Any sound shop that's good with fiberglass can build up that triangle for ya and mount the tweeters there so they look flush and essentially OEM (just like they come OEM on many cars today). That's what I did. Here are some pics:
The triangle built up w/ fiberglass:
This is a wide shot; you can barely see it on the left corner, and that was the whole point - make it look OEM.
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Heath, typically you don't need rear tweeters. It'll mess up your sound stage (if you were out to set it up properly). Typically the emphasis is on the front, w/ the rear being merely "filler" for imaging. And esp. given how close the rear speakers are to you while seated in the car, you don't want to put a lot into the rear, or it'll overpower the front, and you'll essentially be listening to the rears only.
If you must, mount the tweeter on the cone in the rears. For the fronts, I def. wouldn't cut the door panels, given that you can't replace 'em (they're discontinued). I'd mount the front tweeters on the inside triangles where the sideview mirrors are. Any sound shop that's good with fiberglass can build up that triangle for ya and mount the tweeters there so they look flush and essentially OEM (just like they come OEM on many cars today). That's what I did. Here are some pics:
The triangle built up w/ fiberglass:
This is a wide shot; you can barely see it on the left corner, and that was the whole point - make it look OEM.
If you must, mount the tweeter on the cone in the rears. For the fronts, I def. wouldn't cut the door panels, given that you can't replace 'em (they're discontinued). I'd mount the front tweeters on the inside triangles where the sideview mirrors are. Any sound shop that's good with fiberglass can build up that triangle for ya and mount the tweeters there so they look flush and essentially OEM (just like they come OEM on many cars today). That's what I did. Here are some pics:
The triangle built up w/ fiberglass:
This is a wide shot; you can barely see it on the left corner, and that was the whole point - make it look OEM.
oh by the way your interior looks AWESOME . maybe its because its beautiful, maybe its because i have those same gauge pods in my storage room . by the way, do you happen to have any more shots of the tweeters... say from a little further away? they look REALLY REALLY good! do they get ridiculously hot if you have the defroster on hot? im going to measure my tweeters now cause when i held them up there it seemed like there was no way theyd fit, but maybe.... just maybe
#28
as far as the rears ill just throw them in the woofers and call it a day.
oh by the way your interior looks AWESOME . maybe its because its beautiful, maybe its because i have those same gauge pods in my storage room .
by the way, do you happen to have any more shots of the tweeters... say from a little further away? they look REALLY REALLY good!
do they get ridiculously hot if you have the defroster on hot?
im going to measure my tweeters now cause when i held them up there it seemed like there was no way theyd fit, but maybe.... just maybe
~Ramy
PS: Since you got me goin, here's one of my FAV interior shots (very similar to the one above, yet different):
#30
No, I'm pretty sure there's one gauge I didn't get. I forget which one haha.
A-Pillar, from top to bottom: EGT, Water Temp, Boost
Speaker pod, from left to right: Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Fuel Pressure
Wideband, not yet. Didn't see it worthwhile when the motor was about to come out
A-Pillar, from top to bottom: EGT, Water Temp, Boost
Speaker pod, from left to right: Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Fuel Pressure
Wideband, not yet. Didn't see it worthwhile when the motor was about to come out
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thanks ramy. btw you dont have any interest in PRODUCING one do you? haha just a wild thought so i dont have to deal with it myself. i bet youd sell more than a few...
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wow ramy your certified crazy! you really want to make another piece for the FD? lets talk about this first... materials, is it going to be an exact copy or redesigned from scratch. im really excited in this project if you are, and i have a feeling there will be alot of takers! lets talk more about specifics and ill start to rally the troops!
-heath
-heath
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Rotormotor, did you get the polks installed? Details, pics?
Ramy I have been trying to find your speaker build history as I know you have been through a few sets of speakers, can you list it out with a quick review of your feelings on the speakers?
I just blew out my whole bose system with a nakamichi head I turned all the way up so Im shopping for new speakers and so far everything I have read about is too deep.
Ramy I have been trying to find your speaker build history as I know you have been through a few sets of speakers, can you list it out with a quick review of your feelings on the speakers?
I just blew out my whole bose system with a nakamichi head I turned all the way up so Im shopping for new speakers and so far everything I have read about is too deep.
#37
Ramy I have been trying to find your speaker build history as I know you have been through a few sets of speakers, can you list it out with a quick review of your feelings on the speakers?
I just blew out my whole bose system with a nakamichi head I turned all the way up so Im shopping for new speakers and so far everything I have read about is too deep.
I just blew out my whole bose system with a nakamichi head I turned all the way up so Im shopping for new speakers and so far everything I have read about is too deep.
And yes, the Boston Acoustics 6.5" speakers will fit.
~Ramy
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thanks for the input. I've heard the z6's and thought they were in a different league than other Bostons (which tended to be too bright for me) I think I recall the z6s were way too big for the fd doors. What amp should I pair with the pro 60's? I like a flatter tone with more towards the mid range.
at 2 11/16 will the spz60s fit in the door? I thought 2.5 was max and you had to cut the inside of the grill to do that?
at 2 11/16 will the spz60s fit in the door? I thought 2.5 was max and you had to cut the inside of the grill to do that?
#39
My pleasure
Yes they are. Hence why they call 'em the Audiophile Z6's
Not true. They will definitely fit.
You can run the amp of your choice, although JL prob has the highest quality amps out there. As for tone, that has to do with the settings on your amp and the settings on your headunit, not the amp itself.
And in general, the rule of thumb when it comes to amps is, the greater the amplification, the better.
Yes the SPZ60s will fit. They're basically the new versions of the Z6s, and the Z6s definitely fit, just with a tiny bit of modification (nothing crazy).
~Ramy
I've heard the z6's and thought they were in a different league than other Bostons (which tended to be too bright for me)
I think I recall the z6s were way too big for the fd doors.
What amp should I pair with the pro 60's? I like a flatter tone with more towards the mid range.
And in general, the rule of thumb when it comes to amps is, the greater the amplification, the better.
at 2 11/16 will the spz60s fit in the door? I thought 2.5 was max and you had to cut the inside of the grill to do that?
~Ramy
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Here is a link to my Polk setup front and rear. Scroll down as it is not just the Polk pics.
http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...ss7/?start=all
http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...ss7/?start=all
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thanks for the pics. Is that a factory front bracket? I have a bose so I dont know what the front looks like. Is your rear bracket a 5x7 blank from the group buy?
ramy do I have to make a custom bracket for the z6's or can I use the factory bracket pictured? With that depth I'm reading that I have to make a bracket and mount it to the door panel. Should I try to box (seal some how) the z6 or leave it open in the door?
Is there a rule for rms feed for a speaker? Match the rms of the speaker to the rms of the amp? Crutchfield says to over power slightly and verify the rca output from my head so Im send the proper voltage to get the proper amplification. Slightly, is kinda vague.
ramy do I have to make a custom bracket for the z6's or can I use the factory bracket pictured? With that depth I'm reading that I have to make a bracket and mount it to the door panel. Should I try to box (seal some how) the z6 or leave it open in the door?
Is there a rule for rms feed for a speaker? Match the rms of the speaker to the rms of the amp? Crutchfield says to over power slightly and verify the rca output from my head so Im send the proper voltage to get the proper amplification. Slightly, is kinda vague.
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Yes the rear was a 5X7 blank & unfortunately they are gone. Yes its an R1/base model front bracket. I modified it and added a .25" piece of aluminum under the speaker to gain window clearance.
mike
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Here is a link to my Polk setup front and rear. Scroll down as it is not just the Polk pics.
http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...ss7/?start=all
http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...ss7/?start=all
#45
Should I try to box (seal some how) the z6 or leave it open in the door?
Is there a rule for rms feed for a speaker? Match the rms of the speaker to the rms of the amp? Crutchfield says to over power slightly and verify the rca output from my head so Im send the proper voltage to get the proper amplification. Slightly, is kinda vague.
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Is there a rule for rms feed for a speaker? Match the rms of the speaker to the rms of the amp? Crutchfield says to over power slightly and verify the rca output from my head so Im send the proper voltage to get the proper amplification. Slightly, is kinda vague.
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