Heath, typically you don't need rear tweeters. It'll mess up your sound stage (if you were out to set it up properly). Typically the emphasis is on the front, w/ the rear being merely "filler" for imaging. And esp. given how close the rear speakers are to you while seated in the car, you don't want to put a lot into the rear, or it'll overpower the front, and you'll essentially be listening to the rears only.

If you must, mount the tweeter on the cone in the rears. For the fronts, I def. wouldn't cut the door panels, given that you can't replace 'em (they're discontinued). I'd mount the front tweeters on the inside triangles where the sideview mirrors are. Any sound shop that's good with fiberglass can build up that triangle for ya and mount the tweeters there so they look flush and essentially OEM (just like they come OEM on many cars today). That's what I did. Here are some pics:

The triangle built up w/ fiberglass:




This is a wide shot; you can barely see it on the left corner, and that was the whole point - make it look OEM.

 

ramy that was exactly my plan at first (to build up those press in triangles which serve no purpose). unfortunately my tweeter looks too big in diameter. maybe its possible (ill have to talk to a custom shop) but yours seem to be significantly smaller. as far as the rears ill just throw them in the woofers and call it a day.

oh by the way your interior looks AWESOME . maybe its because its beautiful, maybe its because i have those same gauge pods in my storage room . by the way, do you happen to have any more shots of the tweeters... say from a little further away? they look REALLY REALLY good! do they get ridiculously hot if you have the defroster on hot? im going to measure my tweeters now cause when i held them up there it seemed like there was no way theyd fit, but maybe.... just maybe

 

Tweeters - for the most part - are a standard size. Mine looks smaller because I told them I only want the face/grill to show; I wanted the tweeter as flush as possible. But the tweeter itself is larger. S don't be deceived

Good idea

Haha thanks

Umm...maybe at home, but I'm not at home, and the car isn't/hasn't been in my possession for quite some time now, so that doesn't help either. Gosh I miss my FD

I honestly don't know; I don't think I've ever bothered to check. And I don't think I've ever used the heat in my FD either. Regardless of how cold it was, just leaving the temp **** on the hottest setting, turning the setting to defrost, and leaving the fan OFF was always enough to provide me with more than enough heat. Heat's one commodity our rotary-powered cars have PLENTY of haha

Like I said, it looks deceiving. The tweeter itself should be almost exactly the same width as the triangle at it's lowest portion. When you do a custom enclosure like that, you get some room to play w/.

~Ramy

PS: Since you got me goin, here's one of my FAV interior shots (very similar to the one above, yet different):

 

looking good rambo! so you told defi "ill take one of everything" lol. what gauges do you have? is there a wideband in there at all?

 

No, I'm pretty sure there's one gauge I didn't get. I forget which one haha.

A-Pillar, from top to bottom: EGT, Water Temp, Boost
Speaker pod, from left to right: Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Fuel Pressure

Wideband, not yet. Didn't see it worthwhile when the motor was about to come out

 

Heath,

I found this pic...might help.

~Ramy

 

thanks ramy. btw you dont have any interest in PRODUCING one do you? haha just a wild thought so i dont have to deal with it myself. i bet youd sell more than a few...

 

LOL. Heath, start a GB feeler thread, and I'd be MORE than happy to get 'em made I'm serious man hehe

~Ramy aka the GB King

 

wow ramy your certified crazy! you really want to make another piece for the FD? lets talk about this first... materials, is it going to be an exact copy or redesigned from scratch. im really excited in this project if you are, and i have a feeling there will be alot of takers! lets talk more about specifics and ill start to rally the troops!
-heath

 

Rotormotor, did you get the polks installed? Details, pics?

Ramy I have been trying to find your speaker build history as I know you have been through a few sets of speakers, can you list it out with a quick review of your feelings on the speakers?

I just blew out my whole bose system with a nakamichi head I turned all the way up so Im shopping for new speakers and so far everything I have read about is too deep.

 

HOLY F---IN GAUGES BATMAN!

on a side note, i am about to fab up a mounting bracket for 6.5's up front. See how it goes in a few days!

 

I'll give you the short end of it. If you want QUALITY (I mean the ability to hear *beautiful* crisp sound, from very very high quality speakers (that are also very powerful), I'd go with Boston Acoustics Pro 60s (http://www.bostonacoustics.com/car/c...4&family_id=20) or if you have the extra cash, the SPZ 60s (http://www.bostonacoustics.com/car/c...&family_id=136), which have replaced the Audiophile Z6s. IMO, they're the best drop-in speakers money can buy. Anything more, and you'd be looking at a custom 3+ component system with custom speaker mounting etc with high end stuff like Dynaudio, etc.

And yes, the Boston Acoustics 6.5" speakers will fit.

~Ramy

 

thanks for the input. I've heard the z6's and thought they were in a different league than other Bostons (which tended to be too bright for me) I think I recall the z6s were way too big for the fd doors. What amp should I pair with the pro 60's? I like a flatter tone with more towards the mid range.

at 2 11/16 will the spz60s fit in the door? I thought 2.5 was max and you had to cut the inside of the grill to do that?

 

My pleasure

Yes they are. Hence why they call 'em the Audiophile Z6's

Not true. They will definitely fit.

You can run the amp of your choice, although JL prob has the highest quality amps out there. As for tone, that has to do with the settings on your amp and the settings on your headunit, not the amp itself.

And in general, the rule of thumb when it comes to amps is, the greater the amplification, the better.

Yes the SPZ60s will fit. They're basically the new versions of the Z6s, and the Z6s definitely fit, just with a tiny bit of modification (nothing crazy).

~Ramy

 

Here is a link to my Polk setup front and rear. Scroll down as it is not just the Polk pics.
http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...ss7/?start=all

 

thanks for the pics. Is that a factory front bracket? I have a bose so I dont know what the front looks like. Is your rear bracket a 5x7 blank from the group buy?

ramy do I have to make a custom bracket for the z6's or can I use the factory bracket pictured? With that depth I'm reading that I have to make a bracket and mount it to the door panel. Should I try to box (seal some how) the z6 or leave it open in the door?




Is there a rule for rms feed for a speaker? Match the rms of the speaker to the rms of the amp? Crutchfield says to over power slightly and verify the rca output from my head so Im send the proper voltage to get the proper amplification. Slightly, is kinda vague.

 

Yes the rear was a 5X7 blank & unfortunately they are gone. Yes its an R1/base model front bracket. I modified it and added a .25" piece of aluminum under the speaker to gain window clearance.

mike

 

love the red interior and the subs in the trunk. but what happens when you get a flat??

 

Anybody tried to fit Focals 6.5 in the front?

 

I didn't do the install myself, so I can't tell you exactly. But I can tell ya that it took minor modification to fit, not any real custom work.

It ain't a sub Leave it open. Mount the tweeters in the triangles on the insides of the sideview mirrors though. Don't leave them in front of the speaker; the speaker is too low, and you'll be wasting all that nice sound on your shoes

Not sure what the rules are, but if I run a powerful amp to match the max power of the speaker.

 

Gut everything and install a rollcage

 

AAA all the way, haha Seriously I carry plugs and air compressor.

mike

 

You will blow speakers quicker with to little power than with to much power. That being said if you are a retard and put 500 watts on a set of 6.5's and turn it up, then you're are just... You will blow speaqkers with just the head units power much more often than with an amplifier. You can run a 500 watt amp on a set of 6.5's IF you cut the gains down turn the head units volume all the way up, slowly turn up the gains until you get distortion & then back off the gains a little.

 

Nice door pods he made...

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2208485/10

 

Made my own speaker brackets to also fit the crossovers.