$780 Tachometer
$780 Tachometer
OK, I can't deal with my FD tachometer being iffy anymore, so I called the local Mazda Shop.
After getting off the floor, I called Mazda Recycling and they are shipping me an entire cluster.
When I get it, I plan to take it apart and look for bad joints. Re-solder if needed and replace the capacitors...
I am not good at small work, so this will likely be an adventure. I figure I will need to get the right temp soldering Iron, solder, flux, a workbench clamp and a large magnifying glass?
While I am in there I would like to:
I'm not an electronics guy, but I will try anything. If I screw it, I can always try again.
Any additional suggestions or insight would be appreciated.
I will photograph and do a write up as I go.
After getting off the floor, I called Mazda Recycling and they are shipping me an entire cluster.
When I get it, I plan to take it apart and look for bad joints. Re-solder if needed and replace the capacitors...
I am not good at small work, so this will likely be an adventure. I figure I will need to get the right temp soldering Iron, solder, flux, a workbench clamp and a large magnifying glass?
While I am in there I would like to:
- make the water temp gauge linier.
- install small LEDs to indicate several status conditions:
- Profec B condition – high or low boost
- Water Injection (WI) On/Off
- WI in use
- WI tank low.
- modify the gauge cluster to make the idiot lights dim with the rest of the gauge lights.
I'm not an electronics guy, but I will try anything. If I screw it, I can always try again.
Any additional suggestions or insight would be appreciated.
I will photograph and do a write up as I go.
Last edited by BLKTOPTRVL; Jan 5, 2007 at 12:22 PM.
Did you just say that just for the tach, not the entire cluster, but just the tach from the dealership was 780?
WTF, their should be a law against them trying to charge those kind of prices, that is ******* rediculous.
When I wrecked my R6 (yamaha) it was just a little wash out from trying to avoid being run over (which worked, rather hit the ground than be run over!!!) but anyway it was just minor cosmetic damage to the fairing, nose, and tail, so basically all the left side plastic had to be replaced, the gas tank was fine. Yeah, 2700 dollars later (thank god for insurance) it was fixed but it got me wondering...If I ordered every single nut and bolt out of their parts catalog, how much would the bike cost in parts getting every single piece and building the bike from that?
The guys at the shop were actually interested too, so they compiled it all together.
MSRP on the 02 R6's that year was around 8 grand. The parts costs (no labor included) if we were to order an entire machine piece by piece out of the catalog was well over 40 grand. If that isn't assinine, I don't know what is.
WTF, their should be a law against them trying to charge those kind of prices, that is ******* rediculous.
When I wrecked my R6 (yamaha) it was just a little wash out from trying to avoid being run over (which worked, rather hit the ground than be run over!!!) but anyway it was just minor cosmetic damage to the fairing, nose, and tail, so basically all the left side plastic had to be replaced, the gas tank was fine. Yeah, 2700 dollars later (thank god for insurance) it was fixed but it got me wondering...If I ordered every single nut and bolt out of their parts catalog, how much would the bike cost in parts getting every single piece and building the bike from that?
The guys at the shop were actually interested too, so they compiled it all together.
MSRP on the 02 R6's that year was around 8 grand. The parts costs (no labor included) if we were to order an entire machine piece by piece out of the catalog was well over 40 grand. If that isn't assinine, I don't know what is.
Originally Posted by spandy
Did you just say that just for the tach, not the entire cluster, but just the tach from the dealership was 780?
It's easy to swap the tach from one guage cluster to another. There was one hard to find screw getting the guage cluster apart, but after my GF found it for me it was smooth sailing. Easy to get the cluster out, and a bit trickier to get it back in. All it took was the FSM's and some patience and a multibit screw driver.
Get a second set of eyes to watch your hands from above the windshield for when you re attach all the wiring harnesses.
Get a second set of eyes to watch your hands from above the windshield for when you re attach all the wiring harnesses.
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,720
Likes: 1
From: Greenwood/Hartsville, SC.
What is it about the gauges that make messing with the needles so dangerous? When you take them off, do they not stay in the same place, or do you need to mark where they're at?
Originally Posted by XxMerlinxX
What is it about the gauges that make messing with the needles so dangerous? When you take them off, do they not stay in the same place, or do you need to mark where they're at?
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,720
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From: Greenwood/Hartsville, SC.
I've heard that when trying to install a different gauge face, when you have to take the needles off, they won't stay calibrated unless you mark where they're at at idle. Hold on and lemme search to see if I can find something on it.
I dunno if FD's ar ethe same as FC's, but I did a custom gauge face and when i took of my needles, my feul gauge didnt work, neither di dthe volt, I had to calibrate my speedo by driving next to someone n putting it on at the speed, tach stayed calibrated so did temp, i think lol.
Why not just go aftermarket? Just a thought.
Why not just go aftermarket? Just a thought.
Because I think most aftermarket stuff look like crap in a clean car.
And then you have a huge non-working gauge staring at you each time you take a drive.
Personally I'm not a fan of patchwork psudo-repairs. Non-working parts should be repaired correctly.
And then you have a huge non-working gauge staring at you each time you take a drive.
Personally I'm not a fan of patchwork psudo-repairs. Non-working parts should be repaired correctly.
regarding the FD tacho, you don't need to remove the needle to remove tacho from gauge cluster.
Dale has done an excellent writeup for the lot:
http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=69&mnu=5
Dale has done an excellent writeup for the lot:
http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=69&mnu=5
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,720
Likes: 1
From: Greenwood/Hartsville, SC.
Originally Posted by BLKTOPTRVL
Because I think most aftermarket stuff look like crap in a clean car.
And then you have a huge non-working gauge staring at you each time you take a drive.
Personally I'm not a fan of patchwork psudo-repairs. Non-working parts should be repaired correctly.
And then you have a huge non-working gauge staring at you each time you take a drive.
Personally I'm not a fan of patchwork psudo-repairs. Non-working parts should be repaired correctly.


