Hello again,
So I had the Sprint Re set up and tuned by a professional tuner, since I don't know how to tune this ECU yet. I only paid him for 1 hour of tuning, so all the bugs are not yet worked out, as we ran out of time. He did say that it would run and idle after we were done. The problem I am having is that it will start but only run for about 20 seconds, then die. Right about 20 seconds or so, the RPM's will just fall even if I am revving it up around 3K. If I start it again, it will do the same thing. My thoughts so far are that it is not the fuel pump, since I can hear it prime. And the fact that is starts right back up each time for another 20 seconds I think rules that out. It is also running extremely rich. I'm talking like, fill up the garage with smoke and burn your eyes rich with occasional backfire. I do believe it could be a TPS issue, but the guy who was tuning it never said anything about the TPS not doing it's job. Please keep in mind that yesterday was the first time I did anything in the ECU Manager since owning this ECU (as far as tuning is concerned) and that was with the tuner dude doing most of the settings. I am way behind in learning this stuff, so keep that in mind. Here's a bit more info to help you to help me figure out what possibly could be wrong:

ECU: Sprint Platinum RE
Intake: S5, but running only 2 stock GSL-SE injectors
No AFM, no dizzy, no emissions at all.
FC CAS
IGN-1A coils
S5 TPS
GM air intake temp sensor
GM Coolant Sensor
NGK AFX Wideband O2
MAP Sensor: Haltech (Inside ECU)

Thanks everyone!

 

there is a spot to calibrate the TPS, its one of the menu/setup screens. you set it up like a 1980's joystick.

 

It's a little unrelated but helps a ton, and will make your tuners life easier but setting up idle control via a BAC Valve will help get your idle in place. That also being said, your car is chocking due to way too much fuel, I'd start pulling fuel out of the main VE table globally by 5% each time until you can get it running right at proper AFRs.

 

Thanks for the reply. We got it running pretty good yesterday. The idle purrs like a kitten but only when fully warm. BAC isn't hooked up yet, so I'm hoping that will make the difference. I think the strong gas smell is b/c there is literally no emissions on this car at all. I pulled the plugs, and they were clean. So even if it is running rich, I don't think it's a factor.

Hope this isn't a dumb question, but how do I post my fuel map?

 

there is a warmup enrichment table that adds a certain amount of fuel based on your coolant temp, what you should do is actually pull fuel out of the idle cells or globally, seems like it’s getting either way too much fuel or way too little at initial cold starts. My car starts at 10.5 and starts to lean out to 12.8 once it’s warm. Try changing around your master fuel value you probably have it set incorrectly. To attach a file there is an attachment icon (paper clip icon) and you can upload the file you have exported from the Haltech software onto the club in a thread post.

 

Very helpful HYSAWS. I will look into that.

 

Update:
Overall, she runs pretty good and pulls hard. I managed to get the idle fairly steady at around 900-950. A few problems I am having now are:
1. When coming to a stop, the idle is dropping too far, and it stalls. I messed with the throttle plate screw. I believe I have it set a its "sweet spot". If I crack it open too much, it will not idle steady and even surge. If I don't crack the plates open at all (just resting on the stop), it won't come up to idle and just keep stalling. So, I am happy where its at and having it idling fairly steady once warm. But the stalling out when coming to a stop is rather annoying. I also have the air screw turned out pretty far.

2. BAC...........I tried to set the BAC valve. I have a DPO designated for BAC. I set it at 244htz and open loop. When I started it, it idled at around 2500. If I kicked the throttle open more, it would idle even higher. So I went back to closed loop. I guess it's not doing anything now. Not sure how to set the BAC to help with idle.

3. VDI.......I have DPO4 set for the VDI. I have the RPM's set at opening at 5200 and closing at 5175. I am using the air pump to the VDI solenoid (white). I have 12v switched going to one terminal on the solenoid and the purple with orange stripe wire going to the other. I have the air line from the pump going to the closed side of the solenoid. I figured when it triggers, it will open and allow the air to pass to the other side and go to VDI. I can't figure out why it's not working.

J9FD3S-----I didn't see how to set the TPS the way you mentioned above. On the TPS table however, it does read 0 when off the throttle, and 100 when fully open. The car is still running so rich that my Carbon Monoxide detector goes off even with the garage door open.

Thanks for any help!

 

so first off, the throttle body adjustments work differently with this ecu, its a different ecu. the first thing is to warm it up, and without the BAC valve set the throttle plates, idle speed screw and fuel map so that its idling somewhere under, but close to the target rpm. stock is 750. you might need to make small adjustments and work it down a little at a time. next you can plug the BAC back in (or turn it on or whatever), and the use that to bring the idle up 50-100 rpm to target.
the S5 and newer cars use timing to fine tune the idle speed, everything older uses the BAC, up to you.

to set the TPS you go here (it took me a while to find it, IMO the software is messy), remember if you move the throttle plates, you need to reset the TPS too


for the VDI i would tee a pressure gauge into it before the solenoid, and then try it after the solenoid, you'll see what is going on really quick

 

Thanks J9FD3S, I was hoping that you would chime in. I did set the throttle plates after warm up and with the BAC off. I didn't set the plates according to spec in the FSM, which I believe is about 5/32" open at about 80 degrees F. But I know from past experience where that is without taking the TB or intake piping off. I would assume that if the TB plate is in the ball park area to the FSM, by recalibrating the TPS, like you said, should make it idle nicely.

I will have to see if I have such a screen in the Sprint software. I didn't see it when I was navigating. But then again, I am just now learning this software for the first time.

I'll try your suggestion with the VDI.

Thanks again

 

maybe, its not the stock ecu, and it won't act like the stock ecu unless you programmed it the same. it is kind of where i'm headed though. the factory is using the BAC to bring the idle up ~100rpm or so, to 750, and then they trim it out with timing adjustments.

the factory is using the equivalent of the zero throttle map, however i think the haltech can be set up to work the same without it, which is easier. you need a map point right where you're idling, 750rpm, and whatever load that is, and then one 100 rpm higher and 100 rpm lower. these should all basically be the same, except that the lower cell has more timing, and the higher cell has less timing, so it wans to correct to 750 (or whatever your idle target is)

i didn't see that you had a sprint, the TPS has a calibration, but its in a different place than my screen shot.