Haltech why am i knocking
08-10-06, 03:45 PM
#26
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I think you had it correct with the hitman method as long as you subracted 30 degrees from the trigger angle. Claudio's method is NOT correct, the only way his method can be correct is if you set the ignition timing to -5 degrees in the map NOT 5 degrees as he states. you will be 10 degrees advanced on what the map says if you use a value of 5 degrees. Its always -5 degrees (5 degrees AFTER)
Series 4/5 Crank Pulley
There are 2 timing marks on the series 4/5 crank pulley one is Yellow and signifies 5 ATDC (-5 degrees) and the other mark is Orange and is at 20 ATDC (-20 degrees). The timing lock must be set to -5 and checked with a timing light on the leading 1 ignition. If the mark does not line up then the Trigger Angle value will need to be altered. If you need to retard the timing increase the Trigger Angle value. If you need to Advance the timing decrease the Trigger Angle.
Once the mark lines up you can now go and turn the Timing Lock to OFF.
You should also connect the timing light to the Trail-1 and Trail-2 spark plug wires. With the timing light connected to Trail-1 check to see if the timing notches on the crank pulley are roughly near the pointer. If they are not and are out 180° (i.e. the Trail-2 marks are near the pointer) then you have either the Trail leads back to front or you have the crank angle sensor 90° out of phase.
Series 6 Crank Pulley
Series 6 crank pulley has only 1 notch marking and that marking is at 20 degrees after TDC (lock timing angle of -20)
The timing check process for these engines can therefore be a little different.
The easy way is to lock the timing at -5 and check the timing with the light on TRAILING 1. Before doing this you will need to set the timing split degrees to 15 degrees.
With the timing marks lined up on T1 with the 15 degree split and the lock timing on -5 the engine should be firing at -20BTDC (20ATDC) and should line up with the notch directly. (-5 is the angle that the leading should be firing at, trailing comes after leading by 15 degrees (as set in the split angle) -5 – 15 = -20, this is why we check timing this way).
To verify the leading timing is correct connect the timing light to leading 1 and check to see if the timing notches on the crank pulley are roughly near the pointer. If they are not and are out 180° (i.e. the leading 2 marks are near the pointer) then you have either the trailing or leading leads back to front check wiring.
Current model Haltech ECUs allow you to set the lock timing angle to -20 degrees. In the case where you can do this then it is fine to set the lock timing to -20 and check timing from Leading 1.
It is always wise to double check both leading and trailing ignition outputs with one another – not checking this can lead to ignition advancing beyond what is in the map and destroying engines.
Series 4/5 Crank Pulley
There are 2 timing marks on the series 4/5 crank pulley one is Yellow and signifies 5 ATDC (-5 degrees) and the other mark is Orange and is at 20 ATDC (-20 degrees). The timing lock must be set to -5 and checked with a timing light on the leading 1 ignition. If the mark does not line up then the Trigger Angle value will need to be altered. If you need to retard the timing increase the Trigger Angle value. If you need to Advance the timing decrease the Trigger Angle.
Once the mark lines up you can now go and turn the Timing Lock to OFF.
You should also connect the timing light to the Trail-1 and Trail-2 spark plug wires. With the timing light connected to Trail-1 check to see if the timing notches on the crank pulley are roughly near the pointer. If they are not and are out 180° (i.e. the Trail-2 marks are near the pointer) then you have either the Trail leads back to front or you have the crank angle sensor 90° out of phase.
Series 6 Crank Pulley
Series 6 crank pulley has only 1 notch marking and that marking is at 20 degrees after TDC (lock timing angle of -20)
The timing check process for these engines can therefore be a little different.
The easy way is to lock the timing at -5 and check the timing with the light on TRAILING 1. Before doing this you will need to set the timing split degrees to 15 degrees.
With the timing marks lined up on T1 with the 15 degree split and the lock timing on -5 the engine should be firing at -20BTDC (20ATDC) and should line up with the notch directly. (-5 is the angle that the leading should be firing at, trailing comes after leading by 15 degrees (as set in the split angle) -5 – 15 = -20, this is why we check timing this way).
To verify the leading timing is correct connect the timing light to leading 1 and check to see if the timing notches on the crank pulley are roughly near the pointer. If they are not and are out 180° (i.e. the leading 2 marks are near the pointer) then you have either the trailing or leading leads back to front check wiring.
Current model Haltech ECUs allow you to set the lock timing angle to -20 degrees. In the case where you can do this then it is fine to set the lock timing to -20 and check timing from Leading 1.
It is always wise to double check both leading and trailing ignition outputs with one another – not checking this can lead to ignition advancing beyond what is in the map and destroying engines.
08-10-06, 06:35 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by 13BT510
I think you had it correct with the hitman method as long as you subracted 30 degrees from the trigger angle. Claudio's method is NOT correct, the only way his method can be correct is if you set the ignition timing to -5 degrees in the map NOT 5 degrees as he states. you will be 10 degrees advanced on what the map says if you use a value of 5 degrees. Its always -5 degrees (5 degrees AFTER)
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