junito1

Why are the cranking maps suggested anywhere from 5 to 20 deg flat across the map to start with...
Thats kinda big difference. I have fresh s5 stock port engine. WHere should i start? Felt like it tried to back spin once. It starts already so not an issue, for now.

ANyways. I zerod my timing. locked -5 and lined the yellow up while cranking(no start:cold). Double checked by putting the lead on T1 and it lined up with red. DONE?
or do i need to redo this while the car is at operating temps? ANd is there a another way to tripple check this? I really want to see true timing on my data page.

Anyways. I have heard the idle advance should be around 20deg. What should i start at and work which way?

Right now my car idles at 13deg. with 0 split. I played with the ignition map a little. USed to try and idle around 8 deg.

On the Ignition map from full vacuum to 0 on the load(psi) i have the following timing adjusted from the basemap.
0 rpm. 5deg.
500rpm 8deg.
1000rpm 8deg.
1500rpm 12.deg.



SHould i be seeing 20deg. in data page ignition advance on idle?

bumpstart

timing is calibrated if the timing lock was on and set for 5atdc and split 15

most extendies like a bit more timing during crank and starting and you would expect somewhere between 5 and 10 BTDC at 1000 revs as fairly normal

depending on if you have enough fidelity built into your scale at lower rpms you can set the timing at say 250 and 500 rpms to be around TDC to prevent the kick back on start

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

i found by adjusting trigger voltage levels you can prevent the kickback. increasing voltage with RPM

junito1

thanks for your replies.
What is the map sensor supposed to read with power on but car off? My datapage shows "0.2"

LAst night i went out and got it to idle at around 11.9 afrs at around 1300 rpms or so.
I will see if i can get a video to see if it sounds about right. Right after i finish connecting e-fan.

bumpstart

map sensor error smudge is normal , just the difference in height and or atmospherics from when and where it was calibrated .. to what it is today

junito1

IM having hell of an issue getting my fan sorted. It keeps popping my power fuse. SO i havent got to getting her idling for any real time. Darn fan. IDK.

junito1

I guess my fan is about done. WHen i tested it with the battery directly it like to spark a lot and start at full power instead of easing in like it used to... After hooking it up with direct battery is actually worked fine and started smoothly. But after 30 minuted of sitting its back at it again. BLAH. ANyways back to timing.




20-21 in-hg vacuum under 15% throttle.
FOund out my throttle body wasnt closing all the way so after cleaning and lube where fine. Though, i forgot to re calibrate my TPS while i messed with my car for 30 minutes till i found a coolant leak.(first time she got close to operating temps.)ECU saw 196F



Either way
Couldnt hold idle today. Prolly cause or TPS not calibrated and too rich and still at 8 deg. around idle.. with about 20 to 30% throttle (freerev)it clears up and sounds like it should(PERFECT!) as it sees about 15-20 deg advace.(still vacuum)


SHould i bump my idle to about 15deg at idle/vacuum in the 500 - 1500 rpm range?

junito1

Getting a lot better now.

Does lock timing need to be done again after you get engine warmed up? I keep reading this in older threads, but it doesnt make since. I figured locked timing was locked no matter what temp or any other adjustments on the ECU. SO does it or does it not need to be redone at operating temps?

ALso, on the data text page where it read TRAIL split. that is true split correct? I need to be seeing around 15 deg split on idle correct? It seemed to clean the idle a whole lot when the TRAIL split went from 1 split to about 12 split on the TEXT Data Page.

bumpstart

idle split is wide. about 15 ... and lock is lock .. however it is advisable that you always tune the car fully warm ( unless setting up the coolant corrections )
as this will amount to not having extra fuel corrections at play while you set timing for best idle vacuum

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

timing lock is simply used to match timing between the ECU and the engine, it doesnt matter when you lock it.. warmed up, cold, running on one rotor, in outer space, doesnt matter.. you are just checking if the ECU timing value matches the actual engine angle. once you match your engine to the ECU, you dont have to lock timing ever again

i have my idle set to 5 deg with 5 deg split, and that is about the most split i run in vacuum

what circuit are you using to run the fan?