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Haltech Sprint RE Help!!

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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 02:43 PM
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From: Iowa
Angry Sprint RE Help!!

OK guys, Ive been trying to get my FC running for a couple months now.

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...-come-1000475/

I've had 0 luck. Ive rewired the entire car to run off a toggle switch as a ignition switch and a push button start.
Now Ive had the engine crank but not fire.. I got oil pressure and fuel pressure..
But when I try to hook up my computer to the sprint re I load a basemap on it, but I still cant see any sensors on my computer (TPS,IAT, etc) or anything for that matter, I can get the computer connected with the haltech but still it wont fire.. I have the ems set according to the manual.. Help please!
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 02:59 PM
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From: atlanta ga
check your sensor grounds.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 05:13 PM
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From: Iowa
http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/up...ing_rev_a-.pdf

Now I have this wired according to this, Except for the BAC I have the Trigger and Home hooked up with the yellow and green wires , But I have the Blue and red wires capped off, Do I need to hook up the Red (12v switched) and Blue (ground) wires also?
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 05:29 PM
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From: ocala,fl
yes you need the ground wires hooked up to the - side of the sensor. How do you have the cas wired up? where to the grounds go?
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by rxspeed7
yes you need the ground wires hooked up to the - side of the sensor. How do you have the cas wired up? where to the grounds go?
I only have the trigger +,- and Home +,- connected to the CAS


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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 09:53 PM
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whats going on?
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From: atlanta ga
shorten those wires as much as you can. your crank signal will be bad.

also, you must have them shielded. also, the grey sheith around the 4 sets of wires is there for a reason. do no remove the sheith. keep as much as you can. if you can, you have to re twist the wires and re shield them.
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 11:43 PM
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From: ottawa
Have you set timing ? ,

disable injectors, and lock timing. then set the timing correctly.

But it seems you have a bigger problem if the sensors arent reading.
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Old Aug 18, 2012 | 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by RX7(613)
Have you set timing ? ,

disable injectors, and lock timing. then set the timing correctly.

But it seems you have a bigger problem if the sensors arent reading.

Ive set the timing on the ecu but thats it...

im still wondering if I have the CAS wired correctly?
Like I said the red and blue wires for the Home and trigger aren't going to anything I just have them, bent and heat shrunk.
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Old Aug 18, 2012 | 06:21 AM
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
Red - Trigger +
Green - Home +
White - Trigger -
White/Black - Home -

Red and blue are not used.

I would guess you're not seeing any sensors in the software because you have to build the gauges, displays, and maps you want to see. If you haven't done any of that, you can't see anything.
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 09:02 PM
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alright I got her started but keeping an idle is a problem,
I am using this map, from the basemap sticky, from Claudio RX-7

Spring RE RX-7 Series 4/5 Base Map. To use with Series 6 or LS1 coils just change ignition output settings to Wasted Spark or Direct Fire and charge time accordingly.

now I am running 460cc for now, till i get new 550's, my 550s don't fit in the block.
and ls1 coils, I havent changed anything on the map except for setting the ignition settings to direct fire. any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 02:50 AM
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From: Perth, WA, OZ
when you selected direct fire or wasted spark, have you rechecked the output wiring accordingly ?? output wires are reassigned at that tick of the box

and PS.. would expect that you may need to bump up the mixture trim 15-20% to run the 460 injectors on a 550 map

Last edited by bumpstart; Nov 15, 2012 at 03:04 AM.
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 01:08 PM
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Alright, I think I found my problem. after having a buddy over we determined the injectors weren't firing, so after tracking it down with a volt meter, I found out that my ground was bad so I re grounded it to a new spot and now I have power to my injectors and gonna try to fire her up today.
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 12:06 AM
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now the car will only stay running for like 5 seconds at the most, I can hear my fuel pump relay click every 10 seconds or so, is that normal?
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 03:11 AM
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
No. Pump should stay running as long as the engine is turning. Once the engine stops turning, the fuel pump should stop. Remove the fuel pump relay and put a jumper in it's place so that it runs all the time. See if that solves your issue and the engine stays running. If it does fix the issue with the relay. If it doesn't, find the underlying problem.
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