Magilla

^^ Nice. Can I just say that most Aussies are not that stupid? I mean, there are plenty of idiots in the US too. Doesn't mean that you all are...

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

So ..uhm... yes?

p51020b

"The point is there's nothing hard about picking up the signal reliably in an ECU as well"

Thats Great, which type of ECU do you manufacture smart guy ? I will just buy your cause i know it will work flawlessly with every car.

I feel that you guys in this forumn go a little too far into things. See the problem and resolve it. I dont re-invent the wheel, i just put a new tyre on it.. and it works fine.

stop complaining about the things you cant fix. and if you can.. why are you here?
as for stoopid aussies .... well... did you buy and ems from here?

GUITARJUNKIE28

use your head before you embarrass yourself anymore.

DannyD

lol, i gotta get something done about this ecu!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

this is a stupid post, but we used an e6x with the factory harness (plug in adaptor) with zero problems, maybe the haltech wiring is not as good as you think

13BT510

Yeah thats it i am - ohh did i mention my honours degree in mechanical engineering? Or my thesis on uncontrolled flame propagation (check it out online at sydney universities mech eng intranet if you dont believe me) ? So i do know a little of what im talking about here - i wouldnt go boasting about connecting your ignition leads around the wrong way either - just a tip my 6 year old son knows how to do that correctly !
Im happy for you to rattle your own engine to death - i just dont like to see you feed out incorrect advice to people that dont know any better.

No problem - go to a dyno, set it to steady state (dont even bother trying to do this on a dynojet interia dyno they cant do it properly) adjust your timing until you see maximum tractive effort, once tractive effert starts going backwards take 1 degree of timing out, and what do you know - the correct timing with no detonation. Who would have thought it be so simple - do this across the RPM and load range up to say 5000 RPM, copy the 5000 rpm map across the rest of your maps and do the rest with power runs.

Now anyone else want to learn how to do things properly? Just ask !

As for you DigitalSynthesis you clearly have a brain unlike your mate RETed, which would also allow you to realise a different trigger circuit for every trigger type is ridiculous - you would also know that it is very easy to design a circuit to read a perfect reluctor signal, throw some noise into the equation (which is what is happening here - agreed) and things become more difficult - what about reluctor signals that are offset? how do you deal with that? comparitor circuit right, sure but between what voltages?? a reluctor signal will go between 500mv and 130V remember....things are getting more complex already arent they.....just some food for thought for the know it alls on the list that dont actually know anything.

thats all for now,

Phil

RETed

Oh, he's back!
Hmmm....let's see, I don't know what an "honours degree in mechanical engineering", but I'm assuming it's equivalent to a BSME in the U.S.

Well, so far, that doesn't impress me.
At least I realize there's different studies within a BSME degree, like...
metallurgy
materials analysis
and...automotive engineering

Just because you have an ME degree does not automatically make you an instant expert in modern fuel injection systems and control.

Try again...


Wow, guess what?
Eddy current brake dynos are not very common.
At least I don't know of any in Hawaii.
ANY brake dyno will have limited use, unless you have one helluva cooling system to keep temps down.

Sure, if you want to tune "cell to cell", any brake dyno will allow you to do that.
My question is, do you want to spend hours doing so?


Yeah, we're just the riff raff in here.
We like to blow up engines and brag about it.
We actually don't know anything, but we antagonize "idiots" like you who like to spout off about their ME degrees but don't have enough real-world experience to spit on.
I'm glad school is working for you.
Maybe you should stick to it, cause it's not the ME guys who are building and tuning the top rotary engines in the real world.


-Ted

13BT510

sorry i thought we might have been trying to have an intelligent discussion in here - clearly you bring the tone of this forum down. If you knew anything about the Australian education system then again you wouldnt open that gaping chasim that you call a mouth so much !
As far as real world experience goes you have how many posts on this forum??? which leaves you how much time to be in the real world???
And you tune your engine by detonation - mate your not convincing anybody here of how good you are - although i think at least you are showing people that you arent actually as bright as you think - maybe they will think twice about following your advice (lets hope so anyway).

there was no spouting, the only reason this was even mentioned was in reply to the accusation that i was a backyarder with no experience. As for industry experience well maybe your right, but then again maybe you couldnt be more wrong, maybe you have read books i have helped edit - who would know its only a forum and we can pretend to be anyone we like right, just like you can pretend to know what your talking about !

Sorry to make this forum personal - that was not my intention.

Let me think about this - do i want to spend hours tuning my engine....YES - funny thing that, i wonder why it takes ford thousands of man hours to do the mapping of just 1 ECU, maybe its because they only have engineers like myself working for them who obviously dont have any idea about tuning - or maybe because it takes time to get the maps correct - heck maybe thats why their engines last for 500000 miles too....who would have thought.

anyway i think the point that has come out here is you cant just take someones advice on a forum (no matter how many posts they have) because they could be nothing more than a washed up labourer that thinks they know a thing or two.

RETed - your a goose, quit embarrassing yourself and do something worthwhile with your time rather than give people dodgey advice on a forum.

everyone else out there - take my advice or leave it, it doesnt matter either way to me - just do 1 thing, THINK before you take ANYONES advice - and if pain persist see a professional not a forum !!

thats all for now,

Phil

RETed

Oh, and you don't take any of those credits for yourself?
Oh my, aren't we humble here.

You come storming in here blasting people with their ideas and experience, then start flashing your professional credentials like we're all supposed to all bow down and kiss your ***.
I'm sorry dude, that **** don't fly with me.
Why don't you reREAD your replies before typing a reponse to this.

I don't have a problem with you disagreeing with me.
I have a BIG PROBLEM when you tell me I don't know what the **** I'm talking about.
You see the difference?


You're the dumbass who made the associationg about post counts and "experience".
I DIDN'T.
So with YOUR assumption on post counts, you start **** and tell I don't what the **** I'm talking about?
Talk about the pot calling the kettle black...
See above.


You know, I guess my follow-up reply to your assumptions.
I NEVER said to NEEDED to detonate the engine audibly to find the (ignition timing) limit.
You sound like our idiotic presidential race - all they do is try to pound something the other person had said (out of context) to the general public to make their point.
You know what...it's not working.
You think you have some type of audience who is sitting at the edge of their seats riding on your every word - you're not.
So you can drop this notion which you have nicely misquoted from my replies and nicely twisted in your favor.
You sure you're not a politician?


Ah, more insight on who you are.
Are you a "smart" engineer or are you a "dumb" engineer?
Do you just take orders and just do you job, or do you ask a lot of questions about a task you were given?
The reason I ask is why you you would make such a statement.
Anyone with a reasonable amount of intelligence would understand that the manufacturer OEM (programming) parameters is much more complex versus someone who is shooting for performance as a top priority.
In fact, emissions is probably more important that power output - disagree?
There are other factors such as costs, time deadlines, and others parameters that have nothing to do with power or performance.
So, to make the conclusion that manufacturer OEM ECU programming would be several times more complex and would require several times more resources that the guy trying to make his car go fast would not be unreasonable?


You still don't get it.
You already stated once that you weren't going to come back.
But, you already went back on your word.

I find this funny that you go off about being careful about what your read on online forums, yet you chastise me for giving bad advice.
How do we know YOUR opinions are "dodgey" also?
If ALL opinions on all online forums are bad, then why you single me out?

Why don't you go brush up on the English language before you start to reply in this English-is-the-standard-lanugauge online forum, cause your comprehension stinks.
Oh wait, you said you won't be coming back anymore...so nevermind.


-Ted

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Can anyone tell me where I can get an adapter for the E6X to use the factory wiring harness? Then I could just go out and buy a new factory harness, and everything would be 100x easier. I know it will cost a bit more, but if it makes my installation that much better, Id be all for it.

doridori-rx7

iTrader: (3)

I was speaking with Haltech last week. I mentioned the issues that were being discussed here and my concerns being the owner of an E6X myself. They had said they tested the CAS to 20K prm on thier wiring with no problems.. ( which reitterates what's being said here already). I mentioned to them that they should test the loom with a full working engine becuse the noise is believed to be caused by local fields around the alt and plug wires, yesterday they did tell me , offically that it is the Alternator wiring and it's close proximity to the CAS that is causing the problem.. No mention od a solution was discussed however he did say that this obviously doesn't occour with the OEM loom, so I guess one solution is to splice the OEM wiring into the Haltech wiring as far back towards the ECU as possible.. My solution was a Farad cage around the CAS wiring to the Haltech plug and some shielded aircraft loom for the alternator wiring.. I hope this works.

p51020b

reted,
Looks like you have been outgunned by this 13Bt510, who obviously has a lot more experience in the field than you.
I feel before trying to lye about how much you know, or who you are, you should assess who you are in the company of. There is always someone who know more than you, and after mailing Phil (13bt510) I have found him to be a very helpful man, who has helped to fix all the noise on my 13Bt, so my problem is solved, i found someone in a forum who is actually helpful, and does not want to pick fights to prove he's a big man, and keep his forum audience soaking up every dodgy word.

You need to sit down, and re-evaluate why you are in a forum, to help people or to prove you are a clown, by swearing at anybody that says differently to you. You have problems, Phil and myself have both asked if you require help. Clearly you dont, you obviosly know everything, maybe you should ask for a job at Haltech USA. This way you will be able to inform everyone how much you know, and if any body disagree's just tell them to "lick the *****" as it were.
As for education, you dont know what an "honours degree in mechanical engineering" so i am a bit concerned as to how learned you are. This fairly prestigious degree allows people who have them to "wave their creditentials" wherever they like, and tend to know a bit more than your average forum junkie.

"Sure, if you want to tune "cell to cell", any brake dyno will allow you to do that.
My question is, do you want to spend hours doing so?"
The reason you buy a prestigious ECU with so many mapping point is so you can spend hours tuning to make a dmooth daily driver, which doesnt chew fuel, and run like a piece of crap under light load / idle. I feel you could probably teach a monkey to tune for max power, thats it. just let it ping, then back it off a notch.....
Aftermarket management does not need to be so undrivable. You should have cold start, idle up, stall savers and nice idle, as well as smooth highway driving.
If you think you can get max drivability out of 30mins on the road you are more retarded than i first thought.



To the general public reading this forum as 500 of you have, dont believe me, dont believe Phil (13bt510) and definatly dont believe Reted..... if someone helps you, thats great, otherwise contact a professional. And do not believe anybody that tells you pinging is alright for a few seconds, thing like tht are not called for and for newer users, is just plain dangerous. If you are wary of tuning, get a pro to do it otherwise, buy a new motor before you start tuning, you may as well.

RETed

(snip)
I'm glad you Aussie stick together.
At least you're both consistent.
I really don't care if you have a PhD (well, that would be a lot more significant than a bachlors), but that doesn't automatically make you an expert in EVERYTHING or have common sense.
Read that twice before you answer.

I've been around academic types too long, and I already sense the attitude and arrogance coming through your typing.
This doesn't persuade or impress me.
All it does tell me you're disciplined enough to put in several years into a focused discipline.
Anyone with a photographic memory can pass sufficiently almost any college course.
Now, before you go off about this, I'm trying to make a point about extremes.
It seems you're taking this waaaay too personally.

You two have a problem with pushing people over cause they are not on your level.
I find that more insulting than anything.
You basically tell me I don't know what the **** I'm talking about, and I'm still waiting for an apology - well, I'm not going to hold my breath on it.
I think I've got more practical experience with turbo rotary engines more than both of you combined, but all you two can do is insult me.
In fact, you're still doing it.
It sounds like I've collided with a bunch of egos who can't take up a debate with someone "lower" than you are.

I've been doing this way too long.
I'm sure I've been doing this longer than both of you combined.
You like to tell me not to assume who's on the other side of the keyboard, but I don't - I think it's you that are assuming who I am.

Yeah, you can translate this into me being some kinda ego-maniac.
Hey, you might be right.
I know who I am, and that's all that matters.
I think you guys need to look at who you are and what you are doing.

Cause, remember, I do this for entertainment...


-Ted

13BT510

now im just wondering who is getting personal here???

My point has always been that you dont know what your talking about, im not saying your a bad person - you were giving bad advice ! thats two seperate things.
I agree that alot of academics would cut their own arm off with a set of side cutters, im not claiming to be an expert in "EVERYTHING" because i couldnt tell you how long to cook tonights dinner for - because thats not my area of spreciality - internal combustion engines are.
I dont have a photographic memory - i have to learn things like everyone else that goes to tertiary education, your right i am no one special - i did just spend several years studying a focussed discipline - and you know what - the internal combustion engine was of of those focussed areas, by your own admission this gives me some credibility.

At no point in time has this conversation become academic nor have i looked down on anyone (well anyone but you because your giving bogus advice)....its always been about sharing knowledge - thats what forums are about, my point is not and has always been that when dealing with forums this knowledge is not always correct - this is the only reason i entered this thread at all....because you were giving out bogus info.

Thats all it was and all it will be i just hope people can see it !

thats all for now,

Peace

Phil

GUITARJUNKIE28

i'll settle this!

run the knock sensor through your stereo, get an eq and jack up the 800-4khz range.

RETed

Here's the problem...
Let me refresh your memory.
You come in here and post **** like this:

I went on to refute your claim.
I've detonated my engine hard TWICE.
VERY audible, and very apparent on the EGT gauge - my motor is still running.
This basically makes your statement false.
And which you went on to claim that your fancy university degree and your background precludes you to basically **** on my claim.

"you clearly need to go back to school" - that's a personal attack.

Maybe where you're from, it might be construed as a joke, but I find your replies insulting, arrogant, and derogatory.

When I get a hint your replies are of such nature, I get defensive - wouldn't you?

Like I said before, I take pride in my experience with Haltechs and these motors.
I've killed my share of engines doing stupid things.
I hope I've learned enough from everything to offer a data point for others - I never post to ram information down any readers throat.

So when you come in here bragging about your university degree and telling me what I'm claiming is bullshit, I'm going to fight back.

You might have extensive studies in the piston ICE, but how much of that applies to the Mazda rotary engine?


-Ted

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

RETed

K2RD is the only I know of making these things.
Try and contact them.
I wouldn't recommend it though, as the original engine harness is all hard and brittle by now.
Yeah, it might be easier to install, but you're soon find out that troubleshooting electrical problems is a royal pain in the ***.
I insist with all my potential Haltech customers to go with the Haltech (flying lead) harness.


-Ted

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

If I were to do that stock harness... I would buy a new OEM mazda one. I know they are pricey, but if it would make it a easier and cleaner installation, it would be worth it. Do you know if they use all stock mazda sensors then, or would I still use the GM stuff I have for the haltech harness?

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

IIRC, you need to use the haltech/GM sensors, With what i know about the e6k it wasnt compadiable with the stock rx7 inputs, im assuming the e6x is the same

-Jacob

GUITARJUNKIE28

you'll still have to use most of the haltech sensors, and do quite a bit of wiring still. maybe go ahead for an fd, but fc's are so much less complicated, just wire it from scratch and get it the way you want it.

13BT510

Wankel cycle - otto cycle - it doesnt matter the principals of internal combustion engines are all the same, you will also note that i quantify my statement by saying you "probably just blew out your apex seals" - so you were lucky and you didnt - lucky you, if you were doing this with load on the engine i have 10c on the fact that you would have sent them flying. Now with advice like just wait til it detonates and then knock the timing back abit its no wonder you have blown up a few engines in your time !

anyway let not dwell any longer you have your opinion i have mine - we have both been able to voice those so lets leave it there hey.

peace,

Phil

GUITARJUNKIE28

and here i thought the conversation had shifted over to sensors...

MrRx

iTrader: (1)

you could only hope, Some people are to busy being pissy...lol