First I apologize if I'm over thinking or missed the writeup, but I swear I don't remember seeing this covered. Instinctually, I would think I would disable all idle adjustments in the NSP, Nurse the car up to operating temp. adjust the idle by the set screw to get near target (750rpm). What I don't know is if I should leave the ignition locked as well. From there I suspect its adjusting AFR and slight tweaks to the set screw to get the desired result at idle.

or I might be mental.

Any advise on what I am misunderstanding?

Thank you.

 

with the haltech you have choices!

the way the factory did it, is that you set the base idle rpm with the screw to something close to idle speed.
The FC Tweak for the PFC sets idle speed based on flywheel weight, which seems to work pretty well. stock is like 750, i think the light flywheel is 900?
back to the factory way, Mazda eventually added a timing correction. it works instantly, vs the ISC/BAC having a delay.

then you can setup the BAC/ISC valve. in the PFC world we've found that the valve has a big non linear area like a fuel injector, so you need the duty to be over a certain amount (i'm not sure about the units)
if the duty is too low then you can always lower the idle with the screw. (the factory valve has a duty it starts at, and then its trying to hit its target rpm, but haltech might let you map it?)
since you can, i also like to set a row/column for the target idle speed (if you idle at 750rpm, have a 750rpm row)
i tuned a car last weekend that idles at 1000rpm, and it had a 700rpm row and a 1300rpm row, so it was in between, for no reason.

i also like to tune the idle to whatever AFR runs best, and then under idle i add a little, it sort of compensates when the RPM drops under that, or you let the clutch out too fast or something.

 

As Im running a light steel flywheel perhaps I should bump up the RPMs then

 

in my head you should be able to tune it so that a perfect 750rpm idle is possible all the time, but it is easier at like 850-900, lol