I need a E8 map for the following:
13b-rew
single gt35
850/1600
LS-1 coils
3" straight through exhaust
big ports
3 bar map
stock ignition pickups
Innovate LC-1 Wideband with XD-1 gauge



I saw the rew base map, I'll have to change the injector sizes and the map stuff. There was another map with 850/1600 that was came up as a e6x file.
I was just hoping there was one that was closer and needed less work.

Also, in Halwin, does the haltech need to be connected to open the map?

 

Nope, you can open and edit maps while being offline. For your setup just use the E8 map for 850/1600, and make sure ignition setup is set to direct fire and wire the outputs accordingly.

You should be able to get it started on it.

 

Do you have something close to this? It would be really helpful since I need to get this car moved.

87 half-bridged tii block with m/a rotors, all new bearings and ra super seals with racing springs, solid corner seals with 93+ springs, 650 tii primaries and 1000cc venom secondaries. Stock ignition, no emissions or egr. Its an n/a for now. Tb mods no bac or anything basically.

I can get it running but the tooth offset has to be changed from 11 to 5 for some reason. Haltech e6k fd pump and stock fuel everything else but injectors.

 

This map came up for an E6x.
BTW, thanks for the help.

 

Thanks for bringing that to my attention, i will fix it on the database so the link works properly.

If you are getting the ignition zero'd with a wierd tooth offset, it just means you've stabbed (incerted) the CAS wrong. If you do it the way Mazda intended it should be tooth offset 11, if you do it the way the HITman says its offset 3. But the reality is, you can literally stab the CAS anyway you want, you will eventually be able to zero it using the correct tooth offset.

On those injector size you mention, 650 Tii injectors, where did you get that from? there arent any turbo II injector with that flow, FC injectors are only 460 for NA and 550 for turbo, 12A turbo injectors are passed as 680s, but i have personally paired them up against 720's and they flow more, so im inclined to think they are 800's.

So please look into your injector combination to be sure.

 

Its Fixed now! try downloading it again.
Also, make sure you go over the ignition setup just to be sure its what you're running. And zero your timing!

 

Yea there 550's. Was thinking about something else. The leading mark is dead on when cranking, but with 11 the timing light would spark once but with 5 it sparks evenly.

 

Oh and the rpms would show 60 on 11 but aroun 280 to 320 on 5, but I was using the stock motor map.

 

Yeah like i said before, the problems is that you have the CAS inserted wrong. So you should try and get it right. But it will work that way, as long as the timing doesnt move and you've been able to line it up, its fine.

 

The CAS is in right though. I even reversed it since it can line up 2 ways and the same thing happened. I was just wanting to find a bridged map since the timing would probably be different than that stock map. And for some reason my plugs are dieing very quick as in every other day one or two will not spark at all till i get new ones in there.

 

You might be running way to rich, but trust me, if you dont have either 3 or 11 on the offset the CAS is not in right. It cant be that much of a difference.

 

So the stock motor map is okay to use then?

 

Sure why not, its just a base map for you to get started, i wont get tired of saying this, these maps arent for driving around with them, they are rough (sometimes pretty good) starting points for you guys to get the baseline going. Most of the time the timing with them will be conservative but its a good baseline, if you've ever tried to do a map from scratch you'd know what im talking about. So doesnt matter what you have, you will eventually need to either fine tune it or the map will be driveable enough that you will be able to limp to your nearest dyno or tuner.

 

Anyone got a e11 map for a 20b? 550/850 cc injectors, MSD LS1 coils,Pettitt banzai engine.. thanks

 

Need a E11 map for a street ported s5 n/a running haltech tps and temp sensors, stock ignition.

 

Seriously, I need something. I've got it running (which is an act of god in itself), but only on one rotor for some reason. I'm currently using the base map that was included in the halwin disk, though with some random tweeks that I made that I don't even quite understand, so I just don't wanna F up the program or the engine. PLEASE HELP!

 

Why dont you try downloading one of the E8 maps, its the same as an E11 and play with it.

 

okay, giving it a shot with the E8 map for the stock REW motor. Hopefully the ignition is the same.

 

Hey i just noticed that you're asking for an NA map, for E11, for an S5 motor, email me, i may have an untested map that you could try, also tell me what exactly you have as far as ignition goes, what coils, injector size, etc. It wont be the same as the REW motor.

 

Hello list,

By any chance, has anyone done up a map for a normally aspirated, 1 bar map sensor, for a 2nd gen rx-7? I recently installed my E6X on a normally aspirated 6 port engine, but am having a little bit of trouble fueling it. I am not sure what the fuel curve should look like.

Sorry for begging for information, but I am kind of at a loss...

Thanks for any info.

Greg

 

can someone point me to a map for an fd stock injectors and t04, 3bar map.
thanks

 

There's one for K and for X in the here.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showpo...0&postcount=93

 

Can someone give me a base map for the following:


E6K
S4 motor w/ S5 rotors
Street ported
1000cc
1600cc
turbo will be set to no boost

I'm not looking for power, just something safe and relatively good idle. Enough for to to have the car running to break in the motor and prepare for an actual tune.

Thanks

 

Ive said it countless times, and ill keep repeating it:

Base maps are BASE MAPS! nothing more than a way to get your engine started a little quicker and with slightly less hassle than if you'd have to do it your self and not know enough about the procedures. Please! Please! DO NOT use base maps to try and brake in your car, some times you will get a base map that would actually run your engine fairly decent, but still!, they arent meant to be used that way, they are to help you get started so you can fine tune it to YOUR specific needs/ambient conditions/fuel quality/exact engine mods, etc.

So exercise caution when using base maps so you dont run into trouble.

Bluesi, this is not meant towards you and i by no means want this to sound like im bitching at you, im just protecting my reputation as well as your engines.

Go HERE and see if you find one that closely matches your mods and ignition setup. I dont have anything for 1000cc primaries, but what you can do is use the 850/1600 combo and lower the bars on the vacuum side about 10-20%.

 

Dear Claudio,

Thank you for your reply. No offense taken.

You see, we are having problems starting and keeping an idle for my car. I was hoping we could use a very conservative "map" just to jet the car running to break in the motor. During break in, the engine will not see past 3500rpm and no boost will be run.

I need to have my motor ran in to be ready for an actual tune in a few weeks time.