Well, looking around the maps i have i found something for E6X that is for NA 13B which im sure timing is pretty good on it and can be used. But its for 550cc injectors. I can recalibrate for the flow difference, but im sure you will have to retune to get it down right.

Email me.

 

hey i was wodering if i could get a break in map and a base map... the motor has like 20 miles on it. here are my mods
Modifications
Garrett super 60 turbo
4" to 3" down pipe
Turbosmart 38mm wastegate
Turbosmart boost controler
Stainless turbo manifold
Front mount intercooler
Apexi blow off valve
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Over size fuel lines
Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel rails
550cc primaries
83lb secondaries
Greddy intake adapter
FD alternater
Race bearings
Aggressive templet port and polish
2mm atkins rotory apex seals
Haltech E6X
turbo timer
Center force dual friction clutch


thanks
trent

 

What engine? FD or FC? what coil/ignition setup/parts? If his is an FC, try this one:

E6X - 13BT MAP for 550-850 injectors, some mods

 

it has stock coil and ignition set up but i have a set of bosch coils under my bed but dont know how to wire them up. also 3 bar map sensor. if there is anything else you need to know just let me know!!!

thanks
trent

 

Again, what engine, FD or FC? what flow injectors?

 

s4 fc tII... and idk about the injectors how could i find out. i had a guy build the car for me and he basically screwed me with a half running car im just tryin to get it right

thanks
trent

 

You got pics of your injectors? maybe we can tell you. What ECU?

 

S4 Tii, E6K, large Street port, 720/1680s, TO4S turbo, FC1000 and MSD coils, 3 bar map

do you have a good base map for this setup?

 

i also need a base map for e6x

s4 t2 motor 8.5.1
550/1680's
exaust ported
walbro fuel pump
t04b turbo .60/1.15

 

Claudio, got a map for this setup?

E6K
13B-rew
SP
850/1680
3 bar
GT35R
TII cols/ignition


Thanks. I used my old TII map and can't get the car to start ater the rebuild on this new engine..

 

Guys guys guys, i have to jump in here and say that base maps are only a starting point, to get you within the vicinity of your current setup so you can get started a little quicker than if you would have to do the map completely from scratch.

I am also going to suggest that you look at the maps in this thread and try to start with those, these maps are the ones i know can work for you in some way shape or form, either by being the same ignition setup or either by having a close enough injector size to yours. Either way you will have to fine tune the map for your particular setup. I know that sometimes you will use a base map that actually starts and runs your engine pretty decently, other times you'll have to fine tune it, other times it wont be that close, this is because fuel requirements (as well as ignition) vary from engine to engine and the best results come from fine tuning to THAT particular setup/combination of mods.

So, worst case scenario, download one map that has your setup on ignition and triggering, and another with the fuel map close to yours and try to combine them, either by copy/pasting (halwin) or by manually putting the same values (DOS).

I apologize if i cant provide maps for everybody, i hope some day i will.

 

Download the X map for 550/1600 injectors.
Use the K map for 550/1600, lower fuel before the stagging point about 15% across all the bars, and make sure you setup the ignition for an REW engine, which is, trigger angle 65+/-, tooth offset 5, same ignition setup as for a FC engine. Also, Gonzz, remember that if you have a fresh 100% brand spanking new engine rebuild, using new housings and new seals, it will probably be a little stubborn to start the first couple of times, so i would run it a little lean at first, maybe lower the bars a little more than 15%, say, 20%. Until the engine finally seals up and starts properly, then fine tune it for driveability to brake it in, 500-1000 miles.

 

If anyone wants it, I can post one of my old partially tuned base maps:


E6X
13b-rew r-magic stage2 porting
internal 2.5bar map
T70 w/ 1.01A/R - running 1.2bar boost
550cc/1680cc
stock ignition
11/11.5 sparkplugs

my car made 300rwkw on it, but AFR looks like a seismic graph from an earthquake (jumping around from 10.4-11.2)

 

What fuel did you use? That doesnt seem like too much of a variation, im sure it wouldnt take too long to make it nice and flat.

If you'd like to email it to me feel free.

 

what map would work best for a e6x 4 72 pound injectors stock coils Camden 7 inch supercharger with 11 psi pulley water injection 3 bar map stock ports

 

This is a tricky one, i havent had the pleasure of working on a supercharged rotary yet, im not sure how the maps would look like under those condition. But i would like to help you out.

I would also recommend that if you will never go beyond 15psi, that you use a 2bar map sensor, you would get better resolution for idle and cruise conditions, since you wouldnt be upping the boost you wouldnt use the higher parts of the map anyway. Or, you can just use the internal map sensor on your haltech, if your has it, instead of the 3bar one.

I guess that you can start playing with a stock injectors e6x map, for 3bar map sensor or the internal 2.5bar sensor, if thats what you got. All you'd have to do is lower the entire maps by about 15% to start.

See how it goes and let me know.

 

thanks i have 2 e6x one with the internal map one without but would like to save it for another car so i will just pick up a 2bar thanks for the help

 

What map would you recommend for the following setup, to get the car started?
S5 jspec 13b Turbo
Stock turbo
550cc primaries (S5, high imp.)
720cc Greddy secondaries (low imp.)
street ported intake and exhaust
Racing Beat 3in exhaust
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Haltech e6x with boost solnoid

 

Try the E6X for S4/S5 map for internal map sensor and stock injectors, it will be on the rich side after the stagging point, so you will have to lower the bars. But im sure it will start.

 

claudio that is exactly what I have on my E6K but it drops power in the upper rpms and high boost. I keep the AFR's in the 11.5:1 across the board. So my question is...how safe are your ign timing numbers and your timing splits. Cause if I half throttle it and keep boost lower it pulls harder at 8lbs at 7k rpms than at 14lbs at 7k rpms. buttt the same AFR ratio

 

Honestly?? very conservative, specially on the higher RPM/load ranges, i cant have you braking engines on my account now can i? there is power to be made im sure, but remember, these are BASE MAPS! not meant to be driven around hard. They are just a starting point, you have to tune it to suit your application, conditions, fuel quality, and mod list.

Remember that.

 

Sorry, repeat post. Can be deleted.

 

Thank you sir, I just had no idea how they where in comarison to the stock values. My tuner and I have tuned cars for quite a while and we dont know what to do with split.

Also with timing advance this is my first time, so I was curious as to how much play room there was.

 

Yes, theres plenty, ive personally seen 50-60hp increase on one of my maps just by playing with timing. The problem came from my doing maps here in DR, with our **** poor crappy gasoline. I had to keep things low, then when i saw what 93 octane was capable of, whooosh... truly blew me away at the difference.

Also, split timing is a school on its own, depending who you talk to and what the application is. If you talk to an NA guy running dual sidedraft carbs he'll say one thing, if you talk to an EFI guy with programmable EMS and lots of engine building experience he'll say another, if you talk to a mazda factory rotary mechanic he'll say another, if you talk to the all time great engine builders of today, Mederer, Downing, Engman, Mandeville, etc, you'll get similar answers, but its all based on they're experience, their disciplines and what they know worked with their setups. So, its just good practice to read up on it where ever you can find it, i think there are a few post around here about it you can search for, and google will probably hit you with a couple more.

But in general, the theory goes like this, there should be around 15 degrees of split between the leading and the trailing, but, depending on RPM you could do more or you could do less, trailing timing is basically for emissions, but, its been known to give you better torque down bellow from good split values. Also, the higher the RPMs the more split there needs to be to compensate for the less time to do the firing events.

If you look at one of my maps, the split timing will reflect some of the things ive said. But again, the maps that are posted here are ONLY BASE MAPS, if you run your car solely on them you could get into trouble, you need to fine tune it first with no or very little load to make it suit your car. I will never get tired of repeating this, so, please take it into account when ever you load a base map from some other engine, ALL ENGINES ARE DIFFERENT, PERIOD!.

Good luck, and let me know if you need more help.

 

thanks, thats all I needed to know. I am going to leave timing split alone, but me and buddy need to work on the timing advancement.