I just installed the 1680 injectors and Ive started over with the fuel map. Base fuel pressure is set at 40 psi.

I'm very close to sea level.

 

This one is just for the Heck of it, i dont know if anybody is actually gonna use it, but i know someone who probably will.

E6X Map for REW engine, some mods, LS1 coils, 550/1600 injectors, set to Direct Fired, external 3bar map sensor.

Later.

 

hI i'm having same problem as 73IMPORT is having while cranking car.. i see 250 rpm speed..
an injectors see like 5.9998 while cranking.....i also notice that the fuel pump...prime when i turn ignition key on.....then while cranking fuel pump SHUTS OFF ...when i stop cranking then i hear pump come on again.....i'm f%$#@king puzzle...
i'm running a E6X
1987 FC
STOCK IGNITION
720cc
1600cc
I'm gettin spark from plugs but its not strong .......

 

Im thinking there might be something wrong with your power wiring, or worst case scenario, the main relays on the Haltech harness might be wired wrong. Can you check that with the wiring diagram to be sure, the fuel pump should prime for a few seconds when you turn the ignition key on, then shut off, and come on while you crank.

 

Car was running fine b4 i was trying to 0 out the timeing an i figure i change some thing on program...
Is there a base program u can sent me or i can get to start up....thx...

 

You didnt indicate if you are using internal map sensor or external 3bar.

Try this one. Its for S4/S5 with 550/1600, external 3bar map sensor, and stock ignition, with some mods.

Or, let me know if you are using internal 2.5bar/22psi map sensor.

 

What kind of Dwell Time do you have setup? stock FC coils in good condition can take a pounding, as high as 5mS, sometimes more. What are your power goals? Is your motor in 100% working condition? Have you checked for vaccuum leaks?

 

stock coils stock ignition ....
street ported motor ....
stock turbo....
motor has maybe 2 miles
just rebuild ...
found out problem with my car....
spark plugs was shot.....
spark plug wasn't making any spark at all....
replace them an car started rite up......
I also used your map to start car...
the 2.5bar ..E6X with toggle feature.....
i have a lil injector than map has....720/1600
car is running like a dream....I also 0 out the timing...
.after breaking process..
I will tunes car better...............
THANX FOR YOUR HELP...AN MAPS....WORK LIKE A DREAM...
87 FC with E6X standalone work great....
idle around 900 to 1000rpm.....

 

More times than i can count, the problem will be engine/hardware related, only on VERY FEW occations it will be a Haltech issue. Hell, even a bad wiring job, on the CAS or the coils, but Haltechs usually always work perfect.

Another staisfied customer. Paypal donations are accepted... (kidding)

 

Hi Claudio.
I`m running on one of your 550cc-1600cc with stock coils fc base maps. I have given it a little more fuel and its working great, exept when it goes from 0 psi to 0.1 psi. The car stags a littel when I hold it on that pressure. I have not manage to see if the car goes lean or rich on the lamba so I have not been able to adjust the fuel up or down (the value is 11.5). Do you know what it can be? My first tought is that its lag on sec injectors or the differential from the 550cc to 1680cc is to large.

 

Hey, sorry for the late reply, didnt see this til now, anyway, if you get a stumble in the transition between the primaries and all 4 injectors its not that hard to clean up, usually its a rich spot, so you might want to lower just after the stagging bar, so if the step is say from 7mS down to 3 or 2.9, etc, just make that 2.9 lower, as well as lowering the rest of the bars to keep it proportional. And since you really dont need to be that rich at that point anyway, its ok to lean it out a tad, ive see that 93 octane gas is quite forgiving at 12.0, even under max power. Compared to my crap gas here in DR, which i have to tune for low 10's sometimes.

With a little attention to that it can be set so that there is absolutely no feeling between the transition under any conditions. Also, you might want to check the throttle pump settings, those can influence the map too, both possitively and negatively if not dialed in right, ive seen that most engine like suttle differences in the throttle pump maps and they can inprove drivability dramatically, specially on street cars.

Just to mention, i recently tuned an FD with bridge motor, big turbo, big intercooler, 850/1600 injectors, to 390HP @ 17psi on 93 octane, with fowled iridium plugs, and the closer i got to high 11's the better it felt with no detonation. This was with an E11v2.

 

here's one for you: E6X, 3 bar map, , S5 NA convert to turbo, custom intake, large street port, 75mm TB, V mount, custom Turbo.. 550/750 for the moment.. ( will move to 550/1600 after base tune is done)

I was looking at the base line S5 turbo with 550/550 setup.. but wonderign if you had a closer setup now?

 

Hmmm... that 75mm throttle body will make for a very specific map, and i would probably recommend you just start off with the 550/1600 combo from the get go and hove have to tune it twice, and the throttle pump are sure as hell going to be needing attention. My oppinion.

 

e8
550/1600
to4 60-1
front mount
ls1 coils
3 bar
extended street port

 

You can use the E8 S4/S5 map for 550/1600, change the trigger angle to 65, tooth offset to 5, zero the timing, and set the Spark Mode to Direct Fire.

 

hey claudio,

i was wondering if you have a haltech e6X map for a stock s5 TII with stock primary injectors, 1600cc secondaries, stock turbo, stock ignition. i'm also curious as to which ignition settings to use so i can zero out the timing. thanks!

 

try the 13BTS4-5_550-1600 map.

 

Like Hellrotary said, try that map, and have a read at the HITman's zeroing the timing writeup to get a good idea of it.

However, if your level of knowledge on Haltech installs isnt that proficient, i suggest you take it to someone who can do a professional install the right way.

Even though the Haltechs are pretty easy to work with, its still hard when you dont know what you're doing.

Just a thought.

 

do you mean the map on the first page or the one at the top of this page? just want to be sure i don't grab the wrong one on accident lol

 

This one...

 

This is what I have:

1985 Mazda RX7 GSL-SE Turbo
2.5bar internal Hatech E6X
Hybrid Engine:
S3 oil pan/front cover
S4 turbo/turbo manifold/rotors/housing/coils
S5 upper intake system/irons
Street Ported
FMIC 24x12x3
680cc primaries
1600cc secondaries
Warblo 255lph fuel pump
S5 80amp alternator
Aeromotive FPR
Tial BOV
3" downpipe to 3" Mangaflow highflow cat to 3" Mangaflow race series muffler

 

Are those 680cc injectors you have orange or blue? are they supposed to be 12A turbo injectors? im under the impression that they are in fact 800cc injectors, please confirm. Also, are you using a 2nd gen CAS/Coils/ignition modules?

Let me know.

 

If this is for 2nd gen ignition components, then try this one:

E6X - Map for 13BT engine with 800/1600cc injectors, upgraded turbo/intercooler, internal 2.5bar/22psi map sensor, stock 2nd Gen coils/igniters/CAS.

 

the 680's are from a stock 1985 GSL-SE. the SE had only 2 680cc injectors instead of 4 injectors like the 2nd gens. I'm using them as primaries and the 1600cc for secondaries. I'll give this map a try when I get home from work. Thanks.

 

What color is the connector on it? cause ive flow tested the orange ones (and seen some blue ones) and the orange ones out flowed a pair of 720cc injectors, so this is why i honestly think they are 800cc, and not 680. I was told that they were 680s to untill i tested them.

This said, its possible that you might be running lean probably, but what out.