Haltech Please help me/critique my map
08-16-09, 03:41 PM
#1
Please help me/critique my map
A little background story FYI.
My car was running strong 2 years ago. It made 315WHP and drove well. No starting or driving issues. It ran very rich and probably could have been leaned out to make more... but that's another story. This is the way I bought the car. I had to replace a leaking front cover gasket. I succeeded in doing so but I had put my CAS back improperly; too advanced and I popped the rear rotor.
So fast forward 2 years I have rebuilt my engine and I am driving the car around. I have attached the map that I saved onto my laptop when I first bought the car. I have not changed anything on this map. I reloaded it just to be sure for my rebuild. I have plenty of idle time, and lots of stop and go driving (varying RPM) around town for the past 7 weeks or so. I am not having any starting/flooding issues. I must have done something right.
The car drives OK at low speeds, but when I touch positive manifold pressure the car stumbles badly and I will not try to push it past that staging/transition point. I did some driving and logging after this first occurred. The most boost I made was 1.8lbs. Not a whole lot. I saw that when I would hit boost at bar 12, my injector time was mostly the value from bar 11 (6.304ms). I tried this a few times and it kept reading similar. It had the value from bar 11, but was always logging it as bar 12. Why does it do this? My ms at bar 12 is set for 2.848
Anyway, my setup is as follows:
S4 Turbo block + internals. Street port.
Haltech E6k
Waldbro 255, 550x1600 (just serviced), aeromotive FPR set to 40lbs, stock rails
3x MSD-6A
Greddy TD06-20G with wacky old school front mount
Fresh BUR7EQ Leading, 9EQ Trailing plugs (should I run all 9's?)
All emissions removed and blocked off.
I already changed my oil and fuel filter after the first 5 miles of driving (and plenty of idling).
Basically my setup is the same as when I bought the car (and it was running well), it's just a fresh rebuild. But it's falling on it's *** at the transition/staging point. Any ideas? Right now I am looking for a tuner who can hopefully fix this all for me.
Video of my early start up if you must.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwoZZYdXtbo
My car was running strong 2 years ago. It made 315WHP and drove well. No starting or driving issues. It ran very rich and probably could have been leaned out to make more... but that's another story. This is the way I bought the car. I had to replace a leaking front cover gasket. I succeeded in doing so but I had put my CAS back improperly; too advanced and I popped the rear rotor.
So fast forward 2 years I have rebuilt my engine and I am driving the car around. I have attached the map that I saved onto my laptop when I first bought the car. I have not changed anything on this map. I reloaded it just to be sure for my rebuild. I have plenty of idle time, and lots of stop and go driving (varying RPM) around town for the past 7 weeks or so. I am not having any starting/flooding issues. I must have done something right.
The car drives OK at low speeds, but when I touch positive manifold pressure the car stumbles badly and I will not try to push it past that staging/transition point. I did some driving and logging after this first occurred. The most boost I made was 1.8lbs. Not a whole lot. I saw that when I would hit boost at bar 12, my injector time was mostly the value from bar 11 (6.304ms). I tried this a few times and it kept reading similar. It had the value from bar 11, but was always logging it as bar 12. Why does it do this? My ms at bar 12 is set for 2.848
Anyway, my setup is as follows:
S4 Turbo block + internals. Street port.
Haltech E6k
Waldbro 255, 550x1600 (just serviced), aeromotive FPR set to 40lbs, stock rails
3x MSD-6A
Greddy TD06-20G with wacky old school front mount
Fresh BUR7EQ Leading, 9EQ Trailing plugs (should I run all 9's?)
All emissions removed and blocked off.
I already changed my oil and fuel filter after the first 5 miles of driving (and plenty of idling).
Basically my setup is the same as when I bought the car (and it was running well), it's just a fresh rebuild. But it's falling on it's *** at the transition/staging point. Any ideas? Right now I am looking for a tuner who can hopefully fix this all for me.
Video of my early start up if you must.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwoZZYdXtbo
08-16-09, 07:23 PM
#2
a buddy of mine with an e6x has a very similar problem.. runs fine in vacuum, but will only make a couple psi of boost and stumbles like crazy. Running pretty much teh same fuel and timing maps as me. but the AFRs look ok the whole time, nothing crazy. we stil lhavent figured it out
have you tried moving the staging bar lower and see if the stumble happens earlier? if so this may indicate something wrong iwth the wiring to the secondary injectors. if it still happens just above 0psi, it may be a map sensor problem
have you tried moving the staging bar lower and see if the stumble happens earlier? if so this may indicate something wrong iwth the wiring to the secondary injectors. if it still happens just above 0psi, it may be a map sensor problem
08-16-09, 09:00 PM
#3
I've read about moving the staging bar, and/or richening the first bar under positive air pressure, but I am reluctant. This exact map worked before. I don't think me playing with the settings will help at all. I don't want to change things if they were working.
08-19-09, 12:22 PM
#5
I'll try anything at this point. However, lately I have been waiting on an turbo/downpipe gasket so I've been unable to do anything.
I'm thinking I'll check continuity on my secondaries just to be sure the wiring is OK. I checked previous to starting rebuild, but on my my looms melted because it was too close to the exhaust. Perhaps I fried my wiring.
I'm thinking I'll check continuity on my secondaries just to be sure the wiring is OK. I checked previous to starting rebuild, but on my my looms melted because it was too close to the exhaust. Perhaps I fried my wiring.
08-26-09, 08:35 PM
#6
Update if anyone is even reading this...
I checked my secondary wiring and it was intact. I also moved my staging bar to the right to bar 14. I drove and went into boost a couple of times, and the primaries were safe for 2PSI (as high as I went). I didn't push it to see if the secondaries would fail. But I guess I can rule out the MAP sensor? I looked at my CAS wiring and noticed right at the sensor cap where the wires go in they were cracked open. Perhaps that's the problem? I have a spare CAS with good wiring I can try. I noticed though my spare is easier to turn but still kind of "clicks" at each tooth. The magnets are weaker. How much of an effect will weaker magnets have?
I checked my secondary wiring and it was intact. I also moved my staging bar to the right to bar 14. I drove and went into boost a couple of times, and the primaries were safe for 2PSI (as high as I went). I didn't push it to see if the secondaries would fail. But I guess I can rule out the MAP sensor? I looked at my CAS wiring and noticed right at the sensor cap where the wires go in they were cracked open. Perhaps that's the problem? I have a spare CAS with good wiring I can try. I noticed though my spare is easier to turn but still kind of "clicks" at each tooth. The magnets are weaker. How much of an effect will weaker magnets have?
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