j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yeah, pull a plug, see whats up

dubulup

^he said he got no spark, so I think he has...

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

Carl .. Are you using DOS or Halwin??? have you tried both???have you tried removing the software from the laptop and reloading it???

does halwin even work on the E6K?

Carl Byck

I did talk to Brian first, but I do not feel it his responsibility to troubleshoot this problem for hours. That said, his input on this thread would be cool if he was aware of it. I will continue to check wiring, I think that it is certainly the likely culprit. As far as reloading the software I have not done that, as far as rust, the plugs were rusted, I replace them with new 7/9s to start the car, the car ran two months ago, so I doubt it would hav rusted inside the motor, even if it did I would still have a signal from the Haltech, and it would still initially try to fire (yes?). In terms of options, I may just bring it Danzio Performance in So Cal to have them sanatize the entire assembly(remove all stock, and extraneous wiring), R&R the haltech, plus install the aquamist 2C, and then re-tune. I should have done it the first time, but I wanted to go racing, so we left alot of old wiring that could be causing the problem. I appreciate, and am still trying everyones suggestions for the time being. Thanks, Carl

bryant

it sounds like relay. did you test or replace relay because you can do an ohms test and it say good but . Or possably the com port on the laptop(device manager) should not have ?? beside it or maybe not grounded good(ecu)

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

might as well rewire the whole thing, but to rule out a smoked ECU you could plug your E6K into another car and see if it works as opposed to pluging a good E6K into your car and possably frying it

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Please keep this thread technically based. I've cleaned up the garbage posts that detracted from Carl's point at hand. A continuation of the deleted posts can be taken up In the Lounge.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Carl this is the problem I had with mine worked then suddenly stoped turned out to be that there was a surge of some kind, could be in your case the oil shorted something out for a split second, and then fried a couple of chips in the ecu... cost me 100 usd plus shipping to get it fixed... I would hate to say it rip out your wiring if you aren't happy with it... do it properly (if not already done so) then try it, if no good... you will most likely have to arrange to have it sent back to Haltech.
these EXACT same problems happned with me... exactly! so it is most likely your ecu is fried.
hopefully not but GOOD LUCK.
Jeffrey

Carl Byck

Thanks guys, I will definitely try sending the ECU to a "good car" before redoing all the wiring, but I will have to do it eventually anyway. It works well, no problems in a whole season of racing, just not super clean the way I would prefer it. 100.00, or even several hundred beats missing a bunch of weekends, plus a 500 mile tow down to the shop I was going to use. I would just prefer the off season, this is what I get for waiting to fire it up... If the ECU is fried, I would be afraid the fault still exists, so I would be re-wiring anyway, we'll see. Carl

Carl Byck

Jeff, how did you establish it was OK to re-install?

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

I simply unloomed everything and quadroople checked every connection and ensured every connection was perfectly insulated with luiquid electrical tape...
I did this while the ECU was in Aus land, so I had about a month to ensure it was done properly then when I got it back I was certain I had done everything right... and sure enough when I loaded my map... it fired right up and worked right until my car got severly vandalized and I sold all of my parts.
Hope that helps.
Jeff

bryant

The Haltech E6K will attempt to run the Fuel pump for about 2 seconds just after the ignition
is switched on. The fuel pump relay should be heard clicking in and out with the fuel pump. If the relay clicks but the fuel pump doesn't work then check the wiring of the fuel pump and the 20A fuse in the fuse block.and there is another relay for the ecu its self. also a relay for fuel in the front of the engine bay. so no fuel pump,no ecu, relays bad, ground no good or no power. also you said you replaced the battary did you get jumped off or charge the battary with it still hooked to the car?? if so this could have damaged the ecu.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

If what you are suggesting is that if the fuel pump primes then the ECU must be good, you aren't correct as mine did this, and yet Haltech Aus. Had to replace two of my chips and one resistor that they even returned to me with the repaired unit. My fuel pump still primed when I switched the key on, yet I could not communicate with my ECU nor would it pick up a signal from the CAS, as the Tach was not bouncing when I attempted to start the car.

bryant

there is a seperate relay for the ecu like i stated above. if you have to, switch the two relays as they are the same. or just go to autozone buy two there about 3 dollars each
no one ever said if the car got jumped off

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

alright well, I suppose it is possible for the relay to be bad, or have gone bad. However mine was not. So it is pretty easy as you suggested to switch the relays but You can also feel if the relay is clicking on or off as well. if no click then something wrong, if it clicks it is most likely working.

Carl Byck

Car was on a charger for a couple days. Why would putting it on a charger damage it? The car has been jumped before w/out damage, again, why would that dmage the ecu? Relays are all tripping(you can feel them switch), there is fuel returning to the cell, I am headed Jeff's route. I want to establish if the ECU is the problem, by switching it into a running E6K car. Electrical is not my strong suit, and there is a said a bunch of stock wiring to eliminate as well. Since I only aware of one "expert" in Haltech/Aquamist installation/integration/tuning, I am thinking of bringing it To Danzio in SoCal. They als build really nice harnesses. I could do it, but tearing the thing apart and having it maybe work is not something I want to screw with right now. Jeff, did you loose your map with the parts they replaced? Carl

bryant

this is out of the e6k manuel (
WARNING:
AVOID OPEN SPARKS, FLAMES, OR OPERATION OF
ELECTRICAL DEVICES NEAR FLAMMABLE SUBSTANCES.
ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CABLES WHEN DOING
ELECTRICAL WORK ON YOUR VEHICLE.
DO NOT CHARGE THE BATTERY WITH A 24VOLT TRUCK
CHARGER OR REVERSE THE POLARITY OF THE BATTERY OR
ANY CHARGING UNIT
DO NOT CHANGE THE BATTERY WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING
AS THIS COULD EXPOSE THE ECU TO AN UNREGULATED
POWER SUPPLY THAT COULD DESTROY THE ECU AND OTHER
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT.
ALL FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS AND WIRING SHOULD BE
MOUNTED AWAY FROM HEAT SOURCES, SHIELDED IF
NECESSARY, AND WELL VENTED.
MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO LEAKS IN THE FUEL SYSTEM AND
THAT ALL CONNECTIONS ARE SECURE.
DISCONNECT THE HALTECH ECU FROM THE ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM WHENEVER DOING ANY ARC WELDING ON THE
VEHICLE BY UNPLUGGING THE WIRING HARNESS CONNECTOR
FROM THE ECU.)
doesnt exactly say dont get jumped off. does say not to use 24volt charger
i always unhook the battery for everything. charge, wash engine,shine crome intake throttle body.
yes sounds like you need pro.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

No, not with the parts that they replaced for me. My map was still loaded into the Haltech when it returned to me, it only took me resetting the timing and I was good to go.

As for charging.... NO when I contacted Haltech they said a charger will not hurt a haltech, a Booster will, as well as booster cables from a running vehicle (with alternator running) however a boost from another battery (standing) will not harm the Haltech in any way. They said only when you used a non- regulated Booster or boosting from a vehicle with an alternator running, is there to be a chance of damaging the ECU.

Good Luck Carl, Trust me there is something to be said about piece of mind when you redoo all of the Wiring (or have it done professionally) it looks better and is simply piece of mind.

Jeffrey

Bad2ndgen

I would ignore the communication issue all together, we all know how finicky the e6k is anyway. I would troubleshoot the car as if it were a factory ecu...check for fuel check for spark, Check the sensors for the 5v power sorce from the ecu to double check that the ecu is turning on. Vacume test the map sensor and check for linear voltage signal, do the same with the tps. check power at the ecu memory and ign+. And if you know someone with an oscillascope check for the sign wave trigger signal from the crank triggers. If the ecu is not getting a trigger signal it will not fire the coils or the injectors. Check power at the cdi and refurr to the manual to check for proper operation, its usually as easy as grounding one of the leads and the plugs will fire... hope this helps.

Justin
www.alienauto.com

tims

Carl,
sorry to see you are having a problem. I had this same scenario a couple years ago. ECU got overheated and it blew out one of the ignition channels. fuel pump would run but no spark. laptop would not communicate as well. Haltech also has told me personally to only charge the battery with all battery cables disconnected and to never use the jump start function of some battery chargers. As this may damage the ECU. this is likely what has happened. I have a spare E6K that you can use to trouble shoot and use while yours is repaired if necessary. I have 2 ECU's(long story I'll tell you when I see you again). I'll ship it out so you can be sure yours has a problem and you can ship it back when yours is fixed. I know you need to get out to the track. email me tim@wanaboo.com

GUITARJUNKIE28

i just got that one e8 back from haltech-- sure enough, over-voltage resistor was popped.

i was instructed to NEVER use a charger without auto-shutoff, and to unplug the battery when i charged it.

Carl Byck

Wow, thanks Tim, and Dave I really appreciate your offers to loan me an ECU. I am Shipping the ECU over to BDC(Brian Cain), and he is going to plug it into his car to be sure the ECU is the problem, seems near certain IMHO, since connecting directly to it yields no connection LOL. I did leave the charge on the car several times, now I know... I plan on running all new wiring just to be safe, and once that is done , or I have checked the entire wiring harness, I'll give you a call(tim). I am missing alot of track time. Brian is also coming up here to Norcal in about a month, but I sure would like to be on track sooner if I can. Thanks again, Carl

tims

let me know Carl. I have two and you can use one until yours is fixed. I know your good for it. I just did a big clean up of wiring on my car as well. you know my number.

Carl Byck

Tim, turns out, I had a bad ECU, AND a cracked rear iron (1.7 bar of boost road racing....) Anyway, I sent your E6K to Haltech and had it completely upgraded to all new software, chip set etc. I will be returning it shortly. Turns out I did not make the race after re-wiring the whole car with BDC, car fired up and ran well, but an invisible crack in the iron ended our day. I actually blew it up on the track last year, but the crack was so small that you had to get the engine up to ~180 before it leaked. @100 psi @ 150* it did not leak... Oh well, time for a fresh port, big brakes, lighten the car, Aquamist, etc. We have the aquamist pretty much done, and wired to the haltech, so it should be P&P when I get the motor back from BDC. Later, Carl

GUITARJUNKIE28

was it the overvoltage resistor?