i installed my E8 this weekend and got it running well (thanks to slo for the help and the map). for the blue and white connector, i followed these steps on fd3s.net:

http://www.fd3s.net/haltech_install.html



however, nothing on my gauge cluster works. the idiot lights are all on, the speedo, tach, oil press, water temp, low water light, low oil light, all do not work. also, my air bag light is now blinking.

i followed his instructions for the blue/white tranny harness plugs, but what is the point? IIRC, there are 6 wires that run down there (for 3 two-wire plugs) and i have no idea what they are. i was assuming one of them was a speed sensor (that runs up to the speedo?), maybe one was a neutral switch, and maybe 1-2nd gear switch. i just wired them as it says in that link and matched the colors up without knowing what they do because there is no explanation of what the wires are for...
can somebody help me out here? i'd really like to have a stock gauge cluster and have my idiot lights turn off. i have looked around, searched some threads, and talked to a couple people with some haltech experience, but no one can give me a straight answer of how to get the stock cluster working...

i guess i basically just need to know which wires are for the stock oil pressure gauge, oil level, water temp, water level, and speedo. i also have no idea how to get a tach signal and why my idiot lights are all on with the airbag light blinking...

 

also forgot to mention:
when i turn the key to ON, the idiot lights come on like normal. then i start the car and they still don't turn off. this confuses me greatly.

 

electrical load control unit hooked up?

 

what is that?

 

The ECU feeds the signal that ends up being the CEL to this, which in turn feeds it to the actual light, and I think some of the other lights.

When I hooked up a stock 13b-rew computer in my fc to make the car smog legal (very temporary) I had to get this piece. One wire went to the data link connector on the ecu, one to the light, and maybe a power and ground and some other senor that I somehow fooled in order to get the cel working right. IIRC it was pin 1D on the ECU, whichever pin it was I think it was plug one. The actual ELCU is a smallish 1" x 2" metal box thats separate from the actual ECU. Its operation was somewhat complex as I recall.

On second though I think your problem must be quite a bit simpler than this. Your car isn't seeing any rpm's.

Is the alternator hooked up?

Is the tack working?

Not sure if these would cause the lights to stay on in an FD, but this is where I would start.

 

i must have blown a fuse or something. none of the buttons/***** in my logicon are working, the airbag light is blinking 3 times (bad connection error code), and the other idiot lights are staying on: battery, ABS, and airbag light (flashing).

the car is running ~13.5v at idle. at this point i'm more worried about this current problem than the damn tach, speedo, press,temp. what the hell have i done

there must be a fuse that i've blown. i was messing with the blue/white connectors down in the passenger floorboard (that i link above in the fd3s.net howto) and must have done something while trying to ground the water level sensor so it would stop beeping.

 

I'm in the same boat. I just wired my E11V2 and I don't have any of the instruments working except for the oil pressure gauge and I have no idea how this is working. I really would like to get the tach and other gauges working. I wish I had an answer.

 

no one seems to know the answer! however, to answer your question about the oil pressure gauge, its wiring is part of the alternator harness so it doesn't get messed with when we do these crazy aftermarket EMS installs

also, i've made a new discovery tonight.

my speedo/odometer works now after re-arranging some wires and cleaning some stuff up. however, at random points when turning the steering wheel, the "low coolant/oil press" buzzer sounds! i am incredibly confused, but atleast my damn speedo/odo/fuel works. i realized today that i don't even have the coolant temp sensor for the stock gauge hooked up. i haven't hooked it up because i don't know which wire to connect it to on the chassis side...

we need some sort of diagram that shows exactly which wires go to which wires to make the stock cluster work.

 

I can follow these e6k instructions to hook up my e8?

 

If you search you will find, look back about 6years when people were putting the e6k on the FD then you will find what you need. The hookup is the same or you can go to http://www.ricemobile.net/index2.htm and find everything you need(although everything you really need is on the site above (http://www.fd3s.net/haltech_install.html) ps. remember to ground the white plug.

 

1. i followed those instructions and I don't have a coolant temp sensor or a tach. that's why i made this thread -for help.

2. those diagrams do not include the wiring for the stock coolant temp/coolant level, which was part of the removed engine harness. if i can just find out what color those wires are coming from the gauge cluster, i can do the rest, but i can't seem to find it in any of the diagrams.

3. ground which wire(s) on the white plug?

4. the wiring he has listed for the tach signal doesn't work for me. i don't have a stock igniter, stock coils, or stock ignition wiring at all. i have ls1 coils.

 

you need to configure a haltech output for the tach signal

 

Use PWM 1, its the one assigned for this task

 

Because you can change the pull ups?

Do you need to do that with an FD?

 

ok i got the tach working as a PWM and calibrated perfectly with 50% duty and 4 pules per cycle. however, the tach only works when the cluster is NOT grounded. when i hook up the ground, the oil pressure gauge works and the tach turns off. i also tried to switch to PWM3, but it was the same result.

i'm consulting the wiring diagram now.

also, can someone tell me what the pull-ups do in the PWM1 settings?

 

No, cause PWM is the only PWM with the pull up built in so you can tailor your signal to best suit your tacho's operating parameters. Some require around 5v, some around 8v, some 12v.

 

Where exactly did you hook up the PWM 1 to get the tach working? What ground wire are you grounding? Thanks for the help.

Aldo

 

What I'm saying is many, or even most tacks would work fine off any of the PWM.

Pretty much any standard tach that hooks up off the - coil wire, and many more modern ones that don't

Something else, why is there a pull up setting for 12V? Wouldn't this be just like a standard PWM (or the PWM with the pull up off)?

 

I'm not sure where the PWM wire hooks up to. Where does the stock tach wiring go to. Does it go to the passenger side to the two yellow connectors that normally go to the stock computer?

Aldo

 

the wire coming from the stock tach is on one of the two yellow stock ECU plugs, blue with a yellow stripe. hope that helps.

 

The Tacho wire coming from the trailing coils is Yello/Blue, and feeds through the driverside harness going into the dash, doesnt go through or comes from the ECU, it comes from the trailing ignition module.

 

Thank you gentlemen. Do you know which pin exactly I should use. I have the BAC valve set for PWM 1. I guess I'll have to change it. The plx device says that it's the 2B connector going into the ECU. I tried using the PWM 3 but it didn't work.

Connector 2

Pin #

Name

Function

Signal Type

2B

Tachometer output

Tachometer output signal

Speed

 

Maybe this might help?

 

is it yellow with a blue stripe or blue with a yellow stripe?

 

Sorry to semi thread jack. I was wondering if all these problems would exist on an FC also? I thought that the tach got the signal from the first rotor leading coil, and the speed came from the physical transmission speedo cable correct?

Thanks
~Tweak