Haltech Need a little E6K help
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From: not in winterpeg anymore
Need a little E6K help
okay, Haltech E6K, series 4 13b, VMIC, BNR stage 3, 3 inch exhaust, 55o prim, 1680 seconds(all new) walbro 255, running a Hitman map for 1600 and Hybrid turbo.
The problem I am having is timing. I can get the car to start and idle, althouvgh rough. I have put the CAS in the Mazda way and have the settings on the Haltech to correspond tooth offset 11, trigger angle 65, locked the timing at 5ATDC, now I will start it up, the L1 timing will jump off, and t1 is no where even close. So I take out the CAS after religning the pulley to 5ATDC and the CAS is way off the dimple. I have done this many times now, restabbing the CAS, and no matter what it keeps jumping off.
Does anyone have any advice on what may be causing the CAS to not read correctly? Should I set up the CAS to Hitman's "i dont know what I m doing setup" with tooth offset 3?
The problem I am having is timing. I can get the car to start and idle, althouvgh rough. I have put the CAS in the Mazda way and have the settings on the Haltech to correspond tooth offset 11, trigger angle 65, locked the timing at 5ATDC, now I will start it up, the L1 timing will jump off, and t1 is no where even close. So I take out the CAS after religning the pulley to 5ATDC and the CAS is way off the dimple. I have done this many times now, restabbing the CAS, and no matter what it keeps jumping off.
Does anyone have any advice on what may be causing the CAS to not read correctly? Should I set up the CAS to Hitman's "i dont know what I m doing setup" with tooth offset 3?
I've noticed that the timing likes to jump around at idle. What I normally do is have a person rev the engine a little higher, with the timing lock still at -5. This should stop the jumping.
Also, once the CAS is stabbed, just correct the variances between the engine and the haltech with the trigger angle. Don't keep restabbing the CAS. For a small change, just turn the CAS a bit, for any larger changes, change the trigger angle in the software up or down...
Also, the Trail Timing will only line up if the trailing map is set to a split of 15 degrees at your idle vacuum ranges.
Also, once the CAS is stabbed, just correct the variances between the engine and the haltech with the trigger angle. Don't keep restabbing the CAS. For a small change, just turn the CAS a bit, for any larger changes, change the trigger angle in the software up or down...
Also, the Trail Timing will only line up if the trailing map is set to a split of 15 degrees at your idle vacuum ranges.
As evilrotor says, the lock timing value should be -5 degress, not 5, because that value for the lock timing is BTDC and the value for the proper settings on the 13B are ATDC so there would be a difference and the timing would be advanced further causing damage.
Also, is your CAS in excelent working order, are your spark plug cables top quality, and is the RPM bouncing around?
Also, is your CAS in excelent working order, are your spark plug cables top quality, and is the RPM bouncing around?
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From: not in winterpeg anymore
rpm is not bouncing at all, I have the CAS wires shielded and away from ignition leads. Spark plugs are brand new, wires are brand new. The CAS was working perfectly up until the Haltech install, so there is no reason to think it is acting up.
Sorry I guess I worded it wrong, I do have it locked at -5. I had the leading working right on yesterday, and the T2 was lining up to T1 mark, even though I know the CAS is not 180 out.
Sorry I guess I worded it wrong, I do have it locked at -5. I had the leading working right on yesterday, and the T2 was lining up to T1 mark, even though I know the CAS is not 180 out.
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kamikazeRyan
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Dec 23, 2001 11:42 AM



