i bought an e8 from a guy that had it wired to s5 turbo II, he was running the cas and ls1 coils. i want to know what im going to have to do to change ignition wise to use the fd trigger, or do you think i should just grab a cas and stab it in the fd? the harness looks really good and i dont want to tear into it too much. as of right now i need to change it from top feeds to side feeds and then figure out the ignition and then i should be able to just slap it in and go to see tearbo. thanks for any help guys.

 

can i use the sport 1k wiring for ls1 coils

 

the 24/2 "multitooth rotary" trigger set up in the e8/e11 for an FC is basically identical to the 12/1 of the FD

with the FC CAS you have some scope to adjust it physically,, the FD set up is fixed good ecu's ( haltech motech etc,, anything but micro )
allow you to alter the trigger tooth and reference angle which is effectively the same as swinging the s4 CAS

all you have to due is install the E8,, and use the standard accepted tooth and ref numbers used for an FD
( note FC numbers can differ depending on where the CAS is stabbed )

the trick with FD is to be aware your only timing mark is 20 ATDC and so you set timing using the trailing 1 plug and use a 15 split at idle and lock
[ if you realise each multitooth is 30 degrees its easy enough to add better marks for a leading position ]

depending on the firmware install
for FC your magic numbers may be 10-90 for some and 11 -60 for others
( which amount to the same thing,, as each ref tooth is 30 degrees )
and on some versions they seem to like 10-60/65
[ not so sure if this was due to a trigger inversion during wiring or just a bug is the 1.71 firmware ]

for FD i think they use 5 - 65

anyhow,, ludwig or claudio should have the FD values that will plug in and work

 

http://www.tuningtechnology.net/Down...D_LS1coils.pdf

 

cool, i will just have to get after it and see what happens.

 

so is this going to be as simple as just changing the plug from the s5 cas to the dual plugs for the fd trigger wheel? i should be able to leave the ls1 coil wiring exactly as it is? i also plan on using the fd air temp, water temp, and tps, there should be no problems there as well right?

 

yeps,, be careful you get polarity of wiring perfect and use the recommended tooth and trigger settings


the haltech is set up to take the air temp sender as a GM ( delco ) unit anyhows ( thats what the FD is )
[ usually the FC is fitted with a delco air temp sender when fitting a haltech ,, the mazda FC unit has unique curve,, the ECU can be user re-calibrated though ]

FC and FD mazda water temp sender is also happily delco curve
and the TPS will wire up to anything as long as the signal is 0-5 V
be aware that TPS based tunes and some of the higher throttle pump settings will much prefer if you hook up a full range TPS
( s5 TB or s6 )

on the you s5 select the TPS that operates on the full range and not limited cam
on the FD you just wire it up and calibrate it,, and set up the dead band filter for up to 2 % so its not uber sensitive to movement or noise

 

im glad you are here for me mr bumpstart, so according to what im looking at, this is how i have gathered you wire the fd trigger wheel.
i use the five shieled wires, toss the red one aside, wire the blue wire to the green and red wire on the fd plugs, then wire the yellow wire to the fd black wire and then the green wire to the fd white wire, is that right or wrong? it almost looks like i need a wire from another set of shielded wires. im so confused at this one part and its probably because ive been thinking abut it to much. i plan on using all the stock sensors, i am not tuning my car, the guy who tunes my car only tunes rotaries and only uses haltechs. once again, thanks for the help guys.

 

bump

 

For E8 and E6X

Haltech - FD
Red - N/A
Blue - Red and Green
Yellow - Black
Green - White

 

thats what i got, thank you good sir