So this wends i drove my 93 rx7 e6k to the track and while i was teching it was raining. He walked around the car and asked me to start the car so he could see if the kill switch worked since the battery is in the trunk. I started it and he killed it with the switch. I passed tech and went to start it back up and it wouldnt fire. I pushed it over to the pits and tryed to connect to the haltech and it wouldnt connect. I checked for spark and i had no spark eithor. Also when i turned the key to prim the fuel pump it will prim the fuel pump 5-6 time consecitvly, and in come cases will just keep priming the fuel pump. I have fuel fuel pressure while it keeps priming.So we thought it might have been the relays so i went and bought 2 brand new ones and it did not fix the problem. But you can hear the relays clicking on and off. Is this a haltech specific problem. Brain cain was there helping diagonois it, and he reccomend sending the ecu off to hlatech usa to get it test, but i would like to rule all other possiblites out before i start spending money again. Has anyone had this prolem before, or heard of anything like this?

Thanks,
Marc

 

how did you wire the shutoff switch? if done wrong the alternator can over voltage while the alternater is discharged(this is the wiring diagram included with most shutoff switches). If the resister that goes to ground is not large enough it can let the engine run and the alternater to produce voltage without the regulator working correctly. switch should switch main battery cable and the power for the ignition, so the engine will stop immediately. after the engine runs for a few minutes and the switch is turned off does the engine run for a few seconds or does it die instantly? I believe you will need to send the ECU in for repair if you cannot connect the laptop to it.

 

I have a bad feeling tims is right.
Voltage spike would cause all of those headaches.


-Ted

 

I have the kill switch wired to the main power that runs from the front main fuse box, and it also interupts the ignition switch by the steering wheel. When the car did run and i killed it with the switch the car died instantly. Ok so who do i sent it out to and how much am i looking at?

 

Haltech normally charges about 50 bucks an hour for labor, and what ever parts they have to put in, what they do is connect it to their test bench and see whats going on, if they see anything fishy they know what to do next. You have to pay for shipping as well, both ways. After they get it and diagnose it they will email you with the total for the fix.

Cant the kill switch just be wired to the positive wires that come off the positive terminal on the batter, just by interrupting them with the switch? or does this specific way of doing it cause that possible spiking?

 

They problem with the FD alternator is that the exciter wire needs to see constant +12VDC.
In theory, if you drop the exciter signal with the alternator spinning, it's going to think the voltage is sagging and spike the +b output.

If you indeed hit the kill switch with the engine running, I wouldn't be surprised the Haltech ECU got fried.


-Ted

 

Ok guys thanks for the input. Are there any fuses in the haltech unit its self? Im debaiting opening it up and taking it over to my electrical engineer next store and see if there is anything fishy?

 

no fuses inside case. If you locate the bad part it could be replaced. The field wiring will get a magnetic "soak" after it has run for a while which will allow the alternator to make electricity even when the battery cable is disconnected, but when the voltage regulator is not powered it will cause the spike. My suggestion is to break the power wire for the coils with one of the auxillary switch connections and brake the main positive battery cable. I would also send the ECU to Haltech to ensure the repairs work.

 

Well i checked to make sure i have power/ switch ground and so forth at the haltech connector, and i do. So im going to agree its the haltech. Where do i send it off too could someone get me a address i thought it had to go to california but it says texas on the box and no one is answering at that number.

Thanks,
Marc

 

That's the old location which used to be about 20mins from my house. They've got entirely new people and a new location in SoCal. The # is 760-598-1941.

B

 

Thanks buddy!