Haltech Help with surging fast idle Haltech 1500 Elite
11-13-17, 10:20 PM
#1
Help with surging fast idle Haltech 1500 Elite
I have a 3rd gen RX7 that I recently installed a Haltech Elite 1500 along with a LMS EFI wire harness. The car previously had a Haltech E6K installed and driveability was good. I also at the same time installed 2000cc injectors in the secondary position and left the primary injectors stock, removed emissions and sequential function on the twins, deleted AWS. The car starts up easily with no hesitation however idle seems very fast and surges repeatedly. I'm currently using a base map that was provided as a option on Haltech. I took a short video of how the car idles. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
11-14-17, 09:52 PM
#2
More than likely it is just a balancing/hunting issue between the idle speed control valve and AFR against the throttle body bleed screw and plate set screw position. While the haltech basemaps are generally very good, idle in a rotary is VERY picky. They can't account for all of the mechanical oddities in a 25 year old car so there is some fiddling to be done. If you can, post the exact tune file you are working with and we can go forward from there. I've found several versions of the basemap, out there, so its best to start with your active file.
The PID closed loop idle control is turned on in the base map if I remember correctly, which will work well for a car that has already been tuned to hold a stable idle and then it will help it hold that target idle across a variety of road conditions....but in a "first startup" of new map / new tune, its likely going to cause an imbalance resulting in idle hunting. This feature needs to be turned off...then reactivated only once you've established a solid stable open loop idle, otherwise it will chase and hunt for sure.
Also, you are going to want to reshape that basemap and at a bare minimum do some basic tuning to AFR check the fueling since the map was made for the sequential twins and you've moved to parallel setup. The sequential's have the boost dip in-between the primary and secondary coming on, so not only will your boost/fuel curve be different that that of the twins, but you don't want to power through that fueling dip...when your boost doesn't dip.
I get carried away, post map, and need to tune idle first. Turn off closed loop idle control first and get her stable in open loop using TB, fuel, and timing adjustments.
Skeese
The PID closed loop idle control is turned on in the base map if I remember correctly, which will work well for a car that has already been tuned to hold a stable idle and then it will help it hold that target idle across a variety of road conditions....but in a "first startup" of new map / new tune, its likely going to cause an imbalance resulting in idle hunting. This feature needs to be turned off...then reactivated only once you've established a solid stable open loop idle, otherwise it will chase and hunt for sure.
Also, you are going to want to reshape that basemap and at a bare minimum do some basic tuning to AFR check the fueling since the map was made for the sequential twins and you've moved to parallel setup. The sequential's have the boost dip in-between the primary and secondary coming on, so not only will your boost/fuel curve be different that that of the twins, but you don't want to power through that fueling dip...when your boost doesn't dip.
I get carried away, post map, and need to tune idle first. Turn off closed loop idle control first and get her stable in open loop using TB, fuel, and timing adjustments.
Skeese
11-26-17, 11:37 PM
#3
Thanks for the suggestion, I just discovered a massive vacuum leak at the lower intake manifold, the previous owner cut the raised section of the egr so I can't even bolt on a block off plate, I'll need to get it over to a fab shop to have it blocked off. I'll update after the repair is done.
More than likely it is just a balancing/hunting issue between the idle speed control valve and AFR against the throttle body bleed screw and plate set screw position. While the haltech basemaps are generally very good, idle in a rotary is VERY picky. They can't account for all of the mechanical oddities in a 25 year old car so there is some fiddling to be done. If you can, post the exact tune file you are working with and we can go forward from there. I've found several versions of the basemap, out there, so its best to start with your active file.
The PID closed loop idle control is turned on in the base map if I remember correctly, which will work well for a car that has already been tuned to hold a stable idle and then it will help it hold that target idle across a variety of road conditions....but in a "first startup" of new map / new tune, its likely going to cause an imbalance resulting in idle hunting. This feature needs to be turned off...then reactivated only once you've established a solid stable open loop idle, otherwise it will chase and hunt for sure.
Also, you are going to want to reshape that basemap and at a bare minimum do some basic tuning to AFR check the fueling since the map was made for the sequential twins and you've moved to parallel setup. The sequential's have the boost dip in-between the primary and secondary coming on, so not only will your boost/fuel curve be different that that of the twins, but you don't want to power through that fueling dip...when your boost doesn't dip.
I get carried away, post map, and need to tune idle first. Turn off closed loop idle control first and get her stable in open loop using TB, fuel, and timing adjustments.
Skeese
The PID closed loop idle control is turned on in the base map if I remember correctly, which will work well for a car that has already been tuned to hold a stable idle and then it will help it hold that target idle across a variety of road conditions....but in a "first startup" of new map / new tune, its likely going to cause an imbalance resulting in idle hunting. This feature needs to be turned off...then reactivated only once you've established a solid stable open loop idle, otherwise it will chase and hunt for sure.
Also, you are going to want to reshape that basemap and at a bare minimum do some basic tuning to AFR check the fueling since the map was made for the sequential twins and you've moved to parallel setup. The sequential's have the boost dip in-between the primary and secondary coming on, so not only will your boost/fuel curve be different that that of the twins, but you don't want to power through that fueling dip...when your boost doesn't dip.
I get carried away, post map, and need to tune idle first. Turn off closed loop idle control first and get her stable in open loop using TB, fuel, and timing adjustments.
Skeese
11-27-17, 05:27 PM
#4
Thanks for the suggestion, I just discovered a massive vacuum leak at the lower intake manifold, the previous owner cut the raised section of the egr so I can't even bolt on a block off plate, I'll need to get it over to a fab shop to have it blocked off. I'll update after the repair is done.