O.K. point blank, I have a brand new E K-6. I have a 1988 Mazda RX-7 convertible FC with a 91Turbo II engine, overlap port and exsaust,superseals Apex seals, pinned engine, 550 cc primary, 1600cc secondary, T-76 Inovation Turbo, 3 inch exh, front mount big intercooler, 50mm Turbonetics racegate, blitz blowoff valve, Turbo II trans and diff. I would like to boost upwards of 25 psi. Now to the problem, I have yet to install my Haltech out of fear that I made the wrong decision and I am considering selling and purchasing the Microtech instead. I have recieved negative feedback as far as installation and programing issues compared to the Microtech system. Microtech is just about plug and play and base maps included. Haltech from reading the manuel and talking with Claudio I am basically forced to have someone program just to get it running. I have been looking at both systems and to tell you the truth I see no reason to install my Haltech except for the fact I already purchased it. Had I not I would have purchased the microtech LT-10 hands down. Last ditch effort, somebody, Haltech rep, convince me I made the right purchase and why. Tell me why I am not going to sell my Haltech to purchase the Microtech.

 

Because the Microtech will need to be programmed to get you running as well. The Haltech is also a superior unit IMO. While the MT will run the engine well the Haltech is much more flexible and has more features than the MT. Install the Haltech and get a start up map then take it to a good tuner and you're done.

 

There are plenty of Haltech base maps that are equivalent to the 'plug n play' maps you are talking about with the Microtech here:

https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-forum-62/post-haltech-base-map-requests-here-534392/

FWIW, you really shouldn't be installing a standalone ECU if you have no intention of getting the car tuned by a professional. No map is going to be accurate to your car and you risk serious damage if you don't tune properly REGARDLESS of which ECU you use (especially with a setup like yours, big turbo, etc).

 

when you say "plug and play" do you mean you would use a patch cord to connect the ECU to the factory harness? because you can make one, they just take a little time to build

As far as I know there are no stand alone ECU's for the FC that are "plug and play"... and when it comes to base maps… that’s what they are.. base maps, you will still have to adjust it to your application... there is no getting around it. especially when your at 20psi+

 

First of all, it's called an "E6K".

550 / 1600's will not support a "T-76".

It's not "Inovation"; it's probably "Innovative".

Why would you wanna waste your time with that POS Blitz BOV?

And the kicker...
Turbonetics does not make a 50mm "racegate".
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/produc...category_id=81

With your ultra low post count, smells like BS to me?


-Ted

 

Almost forgot, thanks Ludwig and Claudio, I have many of your maps, spoke to Claudio via phone very nice guy that knows this system in and out. Also got a lot of info from the Hitman. Just frustrated right about know cause dont want to get stuck again, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, hope its not a Mack truck headed my way.

 

I would stick with the Haltech because the processing time for just about everything is superior, the company prides itself in its name, it strikes me as very professional. Im sure theyll work with you all that they can.

Im notsaying anything about BS as I dont know the specifics to that combinations of parts. I do know, however, that tuning 25 or more PSI can generate some serious problems if not done properly. You've waited 2 years, its probally too expensive to learn on, isnt it worth just swallowing your pride and having it done right?

Im not saying you cant do it dont attempt, but I would heavily research anything before potential irrepable damage.

 

Thanks for the info www.rotaryengineering.com . I do have a Walboro 255 pump, not in the tank yet. I am encouraged by this info now.

 

Coky you dont have enought fuel with 550/1600s on a t7x anything for more than Id guestimate 14psi. You need about another 1000cc total capacity, and thats conna require more fuel mods including plumbing, FPRs, and a pump better than a walbro 255lp/hp. To run 25psi you'll probably need something more like water or alk injection as well.

 

meh it all depends on what you want bro, the best thing that the microtech has is that it comes with a base map from the factory so you can take the car to the closest dyno and tune it, the haltech doesn't, you have to program it to start your engine. in my opinion the microtech is a far better ems than the haltech but some like haltech, some microtech. good luck with your car, it looks like its gonna be fun once its finished.

regards from puerto rico bro. keep it rotary.

 

Just in case you didnt notice, theres a "base map thread" on this very forum, with a good number of options to get most anybody going, and a few other forums that also have base maps as well. And if you email haltech they will almost certainly have a base map to send you for most applications too.

 

ok bro, but when i mean a base map, i mean start the car and go without touching anything on the ems before you get to the dyno. im not trying to start a war here, there are a couple of ems to choose from, so anyone can buy whichever they want, i bought microtech because is what i now how to work with and every other tuner around my area.

 

i had a haltech in my car(that i used to tune) until i noticed that the timing was jumping around i removed it and installed a Wolf 3D ems(love it a lot). now i have friends running haltech and mircotech in there cars and they have no problems. the way i see it, all EMS are good as their tuners. they all have problems so just hope that you don't have any internal issues with yours and find a good tuner for your system.