I hooked up the e6k according to the hitman websites instructions. The car runs and all plugs have fire except for the #1 trailing. i tried another set of trailing coils and swapped out wires and still have the same result. there are two wires goin to the trailing coils according to hitmans website one is a trigger and the other is a "toggle" wire. my two wires could possibly be wrong but i was trying to figure out the purpose of this "toggle" wire is for. anyhelp is appreciated.

 

The toggle wire is rotary specific to the trailing coils on the FC's. The computer/coils need to alternate firing on the trailing. Rotor 1/T1 fires, rotor 2/T2 does nothing. Rotor 2/T2 fires, rotor 1/T1 does nothing.

 

so im assuming since one of the trailing coils is firing that the trigger wire is working but maybe the toggle wire isnt toggling the coils

 

Well i looked in the tune and i didnt have the aux. output set to the ign toggle setting, it was disabled. I cranked it up and both coils had spark. At the top of the screen in the input/output setup though it has a "trim control" option. I set it to ign trailing and the car went back to not having spark at the #1 trailing coil. Im so confused.

 

If you're asking what I think you're asking...

Trim control has nothing to do with this. If you had a trim ****, and you hooked it into the trim input on the ECU, this menu would determine what that **** controlled.

However, with no **** installed, it shouldn't do anything.

Set trim control back to what it was, or anything else, really, and see what that does for you.

 

That particular aux out (and wire) has to be set to ignition toggle. It is the only way to run the trailing coils. It can't be used for another function.

 

ok so when i set the aux. out to ign. toggle the 10 amp fuse in the haltech fuse block blows. Apparently i have the aux. out wire going to the wrong spot and grounding out when its cut on.

 

Oops! Always triple check the wires. Hitmans setup instructions are perfect.

 

ok i traced the wires back and my wiring was right. So i saved the tune with the ign. toggle setting in the aux out row. Put a new fuse in and reloaded the tune in the car and unplugged both wires from the trailing coil. I plugged them in one by one and tried the key each time to see if the fuse would blow. The fuse didnt blow so i cranked the car up and i now have spark on all four plugs. I took it down the road and now when it hits boost it pops and studders. It was in the 16's a/f so i added about 30% more fuel and now it studders at 11.3 a/f. Why would it run shittier with four plugs working rather than 3?

this thread makes me sound like i built some hackjob fc but i really took my time on everything i did with it heres some pics:

 

another thing its doing is when its coming down through the revs and a push the clutch in the car will die but if i gently pat the throttle enough i can get it to idle.

 

What is the timing like?
With the stock systems removed/"stripped" throttle body sometimes the throttle shuts too fast and the car stalls. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks as always. I keep my idle a bit higher to avoid any stalling out, I aim for 900 with all accessories on.

 

I checked the timing with the timing lock on and it is perfect on the leading and trailing wires with the timing marks on the crank. I adjusted the throttle cable and tightened it up and it doesnt die anymore coming down through the rpms and idles around 880- 900rpm. I wants to idle really rich for some reason at like mid12's to low 13's af which is how its always been. When i try to hit boost it hits about 5psi and then just stops pulling. It doesnt make any violent jerking or popping and the a/f doesnt go lean or rich. Today i pulled the intake manifold off and sealed if back up just in case that was causing a vacuum leak. Thanks for all the input.

 

adjust the throttle stop, not the throttle cable. Cable should always have some freeplay.

 

Mid 12's to 13's afr is good for idle.
After you locked the timing, did you remember to unlock it? Simple error, I've done it before and wondered why it was behaving oddly....

 

yes i unlocked the timing after checking it at idle. The car seems to idle pretty decent and it cruises like it always has but still under any load (boost) it acts like its misfiring and breaks up. Its not like a loud and violent popping more of like the sound of something getting electrocuted. Kind of a dumb explanation but its the only way i can describe it.

 

Post the map, maybe some others can give it a look over and spot anything wrong.

 

how would i go about posting the .6km file?

 

Put it in a zip file, or name it as a .zip instead. Then we can just rename it after download back to 6km

 

heres my .zip version of my tune

 

Looks fairly normal and the settings are fine. Are the secondaries flowing good? Have you checked for continuity in the wiring? Also, how is the CAS wire shielding?

I'm not much of an expert. Trying to come up with ideas

 

well the weird thing is it was running fine until i changed the setting to make all the plugs fire. i put new plugs in it today with no change and i staged the primarys down to bar 5 and they are definately working. what i cant figure out is it runs fine as long as i dont try to hit boost. also when it blew fuses for some odd reason which i could never figure out.

 

Different coils, fuel pump, and resealing the injectors/UIM didnt help it. Anyone know why the 10 amp fuse in the haltech fuse block would pop 3 times and then never pop again after i reloaded the tune? Im starting to thing there is something wrong with my ecu.