help!!! i have a haltech e6k and i dont kno where the wires for the coils go on a 90 turbo 2... could somewon please help .. tell me what wires to cut and which ones to join .. thanks

 

http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/e6k.htm

[Factory Ignitors/Coils Pairs Wiring]
- TAN coloured wires from both ignitors go to an IGN (switched) 12V+ source
(splice into ignitor/coils power source; relayed; refer to my own powering method above)
- The PINK wires go to the appropriate trigger wires from the E6x:
- Leading Ignitor (PINK) - LIGHT GREEN (IGN OUT) on E6K harness
- Trailing Ignitor (PINK) - WHITE/BLACK (AUXOUT-1) on E6K harness
- Trailing Ignitor (WHITE) - GREEN/BLACK (BYPASS) on E6K harness
This Bypass lead is called the "toggle" lead. It's used by the E6K (not sure about
A or S models) for toggling between the front and rear trailing coil.
- The YELLOW lead at the trail-pack is wired to the tachometer.
(Update) - This is the yellow/green w/ red notch lead (thin gauge; perhaps 18 or 20AWG) in the CPU wiring
harness just below the trail ignitor. Since it will be cut when installing the wiring for the K, it will have
to be re-spliced. This requires that the trailing ignitor and coil pack be unbolted and lifted up for harness access.
(Update 5/26/00) - Jon K was able to not modify any of this wiring and his tachometer still worked. It
may not have to be re-spliced.
- When I wired in the power and input leads for both factory ignitors, I re-used the factory
Mazda white connecting plugs for easy quick-disconnect. Each of those plugs houses
the TAN and PINK leads on the factory ignitors.

 

per my e6k diagram the grn/blk wire is aux out and the wht/blk is dig out (bypass)

but above they're backwards so which one goes to the front rotor on trailing and which to rear rotor on trailing?

 

http://www.k2rd.com/haltech/drawings/rx7drawings.html

 

thanx a bunch wankel7. 1300cc.com needs to update their mistake before someone fries a coil if they haven't already

 

I will check the wires today, since I used a combination of of the 1300CC writeup and Hitman's website...

BTW - Thanks for the hreads up

 

Pay a competent shop to handle the install.


-Ted

 

Why is that? There's a learning curve, I am sure you went through one, right?

 

I believe the instructions are in the Haltech manual.
If you got the Mazda FSM, put two and two together, and it should not be that big of a deal.

Also, SEARCHing will also turn up the answers.
Either on here or through a web search should be easy enough.

If people are having problems with BASIC installation problems like this, I question whether they are competent to be messing around with a Haltech in the first place?

Seriously, there is competent and there is in-over-your-head!
Too many problems with Haltechs are due to faulty installations and / or incapable tuning abilities.
If you can't handle the job by yourself, it's time to seek professional help.


-Ted

 

i'm so sick of everyones smart *** remarks. i just wanted to make sure to wire it up correctly because this is a customers car. you can always count on reted to belittle everyone. i appreciate it. and by the way the instructions in this haltech manual show it wired up differently than what is posted above. it says to use both dig. out 1 and 2 for trailing ignition, it doesn't say anything about using aux out.

 

k2rd is a good resource for the wiring drawings.

 

Except they do not match the E6K wire color scheme, I guess nothing is perfect....

 

You have to use an AUX for the trailing coil. The reason is, this lets the trailing coil know which one to fire. The signal is either a logic high or logic low, and this fires either T1 or T2. This function is then enabled when you select "rotary" in the setup page.

Here are some pics of my install:

http://photos.dylanwiggins.com/thumbnails.php?album=53

 

Damn.. I installed my own and my friend then tuned it, first time experience for the standalone for both of us. Then took the car out to the track and went 12.6.

Either I am a god, or the haltech is REALLY FRICKIN EASY!!!

 

To quote a dear friend of mine, "Haltech's are idiot proof"... not calling anybody an idiot mind you .

Great job!

 

You're a god!

I didn't say it was impossible.

For every success story like yours, I have like a hundred others that ended in failure. :P


-Ted

 

Well, well, well....

It turns out that BDC's instructions are in FACT correct! If you go by the cables color scheme, you won't have any problems. So put it like this:

-white/black goes to pink on trailing
-green/black goes to white on trailing

Need proof of that, who better than Matt Hitman himself?

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/HaltechSupport/message/8182

For a rotary the wiring is similar

LEAD
TAN wires are both 12V+
PINK wire is Haltech IGNOUT

TRAIL
TAN is 12V+
PINK is Haltech DIGOUT1
WHITE is Haltech AUXOUT
YELLOW is Tacho

So, the icing on the cake, per Haltech E6K instruction manual, VER 9.0, the E6K J7: Ignition output cables color sheme is as follows:

GRN/BLK = Auxiliary Out
BLK = GND
L. GRN = IGN Out
BLU = DIG Out2
WHT/BLK = DIG Out1
L. Blu = Inj1

Draw your own conclusions

 

Add another succes story to your book, and from a first timer

 

straight from hitman's website:

 

That is the same "K2RD" page that has been brought up; however the E6K cables color scheme does not match with the colors on the actual e6k (at least on mine), and the naming convention

Thanks again for the help!