Stugots7

I just removed my E6X which I had installed on an s5 13bt in a gsl-se. After hundreds of hours replacing parts, rebuilding the engine, sending my unit back twice because the ign 1 transistor has blown twice I thinking about selling it, but I don't know if it is good or not since I have never got my car running successfully. Haltech claims it worked fine when I sent it back but its not like they put it on a car. Not knowing of the shielding problems people claim to have I had the top off the top of the CAS towards the end of trying to diagnose the car. With hitman basemaps the car was incredibly hard to start, would not start at all after warming up and would not show spark all the time with a timing light but you can see it when your remove the plug. I did however always get a solid rpm reading. I do remember the oddest thing was that when I disconnected the alternator it was the first time I could actually drive the car...until the battery died. Now I know that that is from possible interference. Could having the top off of the CAS be the whole reason for all of these problems. I remember having it off my stock 90 gtu and remember it didn't cause any problem, but the car was just idling while it was off. Any insight? want to sell it but don't want to rip someone off.
chris

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

No, that cap won't do much in the way of shielding interferance.

To me, to be hoenst (and don't take this the wrong way) it sounds like the car/engine/tuning had issues. If the car DID run and drive then the unit is more then likely fine.

Most of the trigger problems people report are seen in the form of RPM spikes, not simply lack of driveability/hard starting. They would for example datalog a glimpse of a drive, review the log and find several 16000RPM spots when in reality they did a 100% throttle run from 4K to 7K or something.

I wouldn't be scared to sell the unit.

RETed

I concur.

If the Haltech is displaying solid RPM, it's not the Haltech's fault.

I tend to blame installation or tuning.
It could be the alternator was interfering with the ignition *outputs*, and that's covered under "installation".


-Ted

Stugots7

I hope you guys are right. Its certainly not installation, thats been checked by a rotary shop, a tuner, and myself many times. I am almost positive its the haltech now since its been opened up by my dealer and haltech usa and already blown two transistors(hard to not suspect it). I'm about to install amicrotech lt10s and then I'll know for sure. thanks for the info, I'll let you guys know what happens

JSP john

the only way to damage the "ignition1" output is to have it wired wrong to the ignitor.

it is very unlikely that a unit will just "blow a transistor" for no reason. 99% of the time a damaged unit is from user error

and haltech has a test machine for testing their units, which is a 100% non biased way of testing them. if it works at haltech and not in your car, then there is something wrong with your car, not the ecu.