My FC vert has an efan that I'd like to drive from the E8 and I have no clue as to what wires to use. The manual says PWM1-PWM4 are at pins 30, 9, 24, and 26 on the E8's Black Connector1.

Connettor1 has a wiring harness plugged into it and there is a 4 conductor wire (Black, Red&Black, Orange, and White&Red) coming out of the shrink wrap. It has a black connector at the end and it is unused.

Is it likely that the unused connector is PWM1-PWM4? How would I test?

 

No thats the trim **** connector. It has spare A/D 1.

 

Since there is already a connector/wiring harness plugged into connector1, then I *should* be able to trace the wire into the engine compartment and find pin24's violet/red wire for PWM3.

It's starting to look like I'm going to have to unwrap the heat-wrap from the wires that come into the engine compartment just to see what color they are and where they terminate.


BTW: *what* is a "trim ****"?

 

I take it you didn't wire the car yourself. If you have a stock fan, or a standard efan then this is a waste of time. If not then this is still a waste of time this little fan can't really do anything by itself besides make the AC a bit colder when idling, which is what its there for.

 

Yes, the guy that did the wiring is dead. The fan is a taurus fan and I wanted more control, since the temperature sensor (stand-alone in the elbow above the thermostat) was keeping the engine too hot (190-220).

 

still trying to figure out your fan setup....

yes, the E8 can drive the electric fan and yes you will have to find a PWM that is not being used... and yes you will have to open your harness to find it (but first check the ECU connector end to see if the wire wasn't removed)

if you have an aftermarket fan that is pushing 2500+cfm, then this isn't a waste of time... if it is the little OE fan then don't bother.

the PWM is a ground and will be connected to the fan relay as a ground to complete the coil circuit

I will be running something like in the attached picture

 

I'll check the ECU connector. Thanks.

Nice set-up you have. Curious, is your car an FD or maybe RX-8?

 

I have an FC


oh and there is a fuse that needs to be added to the positive side

 

Oh your the guy with an RE in a white vert, and a BNR stage 4??

By all means hooking up the taurus fan to the PWM is a good idea, but for some reason I thought you where talking about the stock fan in front of the ac condensor.

Another and IMO better route would be to pull the taurus fan in favor of the stock manual fan. I am assuming you have the 13b-re water pump, well with the stock fan shroud and stock fan will line up in just the right spot to work with the stock fan.

If you have a koyo or afco radiator then you might need to trim the fan shroud slightly to make the stock fan fit.

If you want to go the PWM route, then make sure you use a good relay or two, those taurus fans pull like 80 amps when they start moving on the higher speed.

I have a 13b-rew in my FC, I used a taurus fan also but have a seprate controll system for the fan that turns it on at 200 off at 185 and uses only the low fan setting, and has no problem keeping the car cool

 

Yes, I'm the guy with the white vert. It's been rebuilt by Rotorsport-Paul with a dowel kit, 3mm seals, half-bridge ported, and a MasterPower 60-1 / P Trim / T4.

The radiator is a dual flow koyo. The Taurus fan is actually a single speed. So, I think that better control over the on-off will keep the temperature under that 205 mark. 220 makes me nervious.

My best bet now is to start unwrapping engine bay wires to find the violet/red for pwm3 (pin24).

 

very nice... are you planning to get a bigger turbo in the future? Why dowel and half bridge for just a 60-1??

What I would do to find the PWM is start at the ecu and move foreward, most likley he wrapped up the un used wires near where the ecu is installed.

Another option is a stand alone fan controller or adjustable fan thermostat that can go where the stock fan switch goes.

If I where you I would still convert back to the stock fan, it just works better... If I can find a way to do it with the 13b-rew then I will, the only real issue is the air pump clearing the turbo's and bolting to the 13b-re water pump housing (yes its CA smog legal) .

I went back and forth between a taurus fan and stock fan once when my engine was mostly 13b-re and frankly (I think largely because of all that nice airspace behind the radiator with the stock fan) it worked better everywhere not just when idleing.

 

A larger turbo is on the list, but *lots* to do before that. After the unpleasent experience leading to the rebuild I wanted extra strength and then the turbo with the internal wastegate was creeping, so I upgraded to this one that a friend was selling. Runs really good, but bigger *would* be better.

You make a strong case for the stock fan, but for now I think I'd like to find that wire and see what the haltech can do.

 

I don't know how many amps the single speed fan pulls on start up... but the 2 speed fan will pull almost 80amps on hi at startup and something like 60amp continous. It's a serious fan... so you will need a good alternator and a relay that can handle the juice

 

Found an unused wire with the right color (Blue w/Green Stripe), in the engine bay wiring enclosure, *but* it does not activate the fan at the software configured temperature for PWM3. Back to the drawing board. I will see if pin 24 in the ECU plug provides conductivity with my engine bay wire. If so, then I guess I will need to measure changes at the engine bay side under test conditions. I did notice that in the software, there is a test option to select as a temperary replacement for the "thermo fan" option.

 

Use the test mode....

remember the PWM's and all other haltech outputs, output a ground.

 

when you say conductivity... do you mean you checked it with a multi-meter??? It has been known that sometimes Haltech miss wires there connectors?

 

Yes, I did use a multi-meter and I've discovered that the wire color is actually Blue with a Yellow stripe.

But, *now* I have a serious running problem.

I'll open a new thread to address that.