Haltech E8 setup questions
E8 setup questions
Alright, so I'm finally getting started on my S5 TII swap into my S4. I ordered a Haltech E8 with the flying wire loom whatchamacallit, followed by a 3 Bar MAP sensor, air temp sensor, coolant sensor, and new TPS.
I'm looking to wire up most of this myself since I do have some electrical background from high school and college. My question is how much of the original harness should I hold onto for this project. I've already removed and blocked off the emissions garbage on the LIM, but I'm still holding onto the BAC since I'm not sure if it's usable or not. I'm also going to be running larger secondary injectors, so I'll probably only need two of the injector pigtails, unless they sell replacements at the dealership down the road. The second issue I'm having is with my location: Western New York doesn't support the rotary engine very well. So, I'm probably going to be doing a lot of the tuning myself. Is the software difficult to work with?
The setup I'm looking to run for the first few months is as follows:
Stock ports, stock turbo, Walbro 255 fuel pump, 720cc or larger secondary injectors, 3" downpipe and catback, and HKS SSQV BOV. I'm not looking to run over 10psi. Yes, I will be upgrading the turbo to a BNR stage 2 in the fall when I plan on rebuilding and porting the motor. I've decided against the TB mod since I live in New York and have been told that it's as smart as foreplay with a nailgun.
I think I'm moving in the right direction here, so stop me if you think I should be doing more at this point.
I'm looking to wire up most of this myself since I do have some electrical background from high school and college. My question is how much of the original harness should I hold onto for this project. I've already removed and blocked off the emissions garbage on the LIM, but I'm still holding onto the BAC since I'm not sure if it's usable or not. I'm also going to be running larger secondary injectors, so I'll probably only need two of the injector pigtails, unless they sell replacements at the dealership down the road. The second issue I'm having is with my location: Western New York doesn't support the rotary engine very well. So, I'm probably going to be doing a lot of the tuning myself. Is the software difficult to work with?
The setup I'm looking to run for the first few months is as follows:
Stock ports, stock turbo, Walbro 255 fuel pump, 720cc or larger secondary injectors, 3" downpipe and catback, and HKS SSQV BOV. I'm not looking to run over 10psi. Yes, I will be upgrading the turbo to a BNR stage 2 in the fall when I plan on rebuilding and porting the motor. I've decided against the TB mod since I live in New York and have been told that it's as smart as foreplay with a nailgun.
I think I'm moving in the right direction here, so stop me if you think I should be doing more at this point.
Update:
The E8 kit arrived last Friday and I've been working on soldering in all the connectors to the loom, and dissecting the harness as I move. I've run into several problems though:
1.) As I'm about to start wiring up the coils, I began to stumble a bit. I'm fairly certain that I'm running a Waste Spark system since the leading coil only has two wires. I looked up the wiring layout for 2-rotor engines in the back of the manual, but I'm a bit baffled on the color codes. I'm pretty sure the tan wires are the +12V source from the ECU, and the pink wires are for operating the coil. I'm not sure about the trailing coil though.
2.) I'm still not totally sure if I'll be keeping my BAC or not at this point. I do want to retain the stock TB since I do live in a cold area, but when it comes to mounting the new TPS, I'm not sure what I can remove/modify. It's a given that the TPS isn't going to drop straight on so I'm willing to remove some components, but not too much.
3.) I'm assuming ( I seem to be doing a lot of this) that the starter/alternator loom of wires also contains wiring for the oil pressure and level sensors, which raises a question about my factory cluster. Is there a diagram that can illustrate how to retain the factory cluster without having to run gauges? I'm guessing that the water temp gauge is the only one I'd have problems with.
Also, I've decided on 800cc secondary injectors instead of the 750cc.
The E8 kit arrived last Friday and I've been working on soldering in all the connectors to the loom, and dissecting the harness as I move. I've run into several problems though:
1.) As I'm about to start wiring up the coils, I began to stumble a bit. I'm fairly certain that I'm running a Waste Spark system since the leading coil only has two wires. I looked up the wiring layout for 2-rotor engines in the back of the manual, but I'm a bit baffled on the color codes. I'm pretty sure the tan wires are the +12V source from the ECU, and the pink wires are for operating the coil. I'm not sure about the trailing coil though.
2.) I'm still not totally sure if I'll be keeping my BAC or not at this point. I do want to retain the stock TB since I do live in a cold area, but when it comes to mounting the new TPS, I'm not sure what I can remove/modify. It's a given that the TPS isn't going to drop straight on so I'm willing to remove some components, but not too much.
3.) I'm assuming ( I seem to be doing a lot of this) that the starter/alternator loom of wires also contains wiring for the oil pressure and level sensors, which raises a question about my factory cluster. Is there a diagram that can illustrate how to retain the factory cluster without having to run gauges? I'm guessing that the water temp gauge is the only one I'd have problems with.
Also, I've decided on 800cc secondary injectors instead of the 750cc.
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