ok well i have a couple of questions for you guys.

last night we finally got my timing all figured out and got the car idling well. but when we go to acutally do some tuning, of the idle at least. we find that the injection times are about 3.4 when the map it is reading has an injection time of about 1.2 ish. about 1/3-1/2 of what the injection times acually are. we finally got the times we were inputting to equal the times it was outputting by changing the fuel scale factor to about 45-55.

so i was wondering what is causing us to need to do this, is there some setting or map some where effecting the injection times we cant find.

next problem! the car only like to start when you dump alot of fuel into it. so when we were messing around with the fuel scale factor every time we killed it by going to lean we would have to bump it up to around 70 to get the car to start and then could bring the times right back down. what map will effect the ammount of fuel the car gets while cranking.

the post start map seems to have no effect on the ammount of fuel getting into the car at cranking and the priming map is in time and tempature, no fuel! what the hell does the priming map even effect?

thanks-
carlos the slighty perturbed E8 owner

 

Did you check all your fuel correction maps?
Try checking this out...
There's a dedicated CORRECTION display available.
This should show any corrections to the base fuel (and ignition?) map(s).


Cranking primer?

Typically don't touch that.
The rotary engines really doesn't need any of that, and you can actually turn it off with no ill effects.


-Ted

 

o yeah i forgot... i got it all figured out... ignore me im stupid....

the 3D coolant correction map was enabled and set to 100 percent.

im just stupid :

 

Yeow!
That would do it.
Congrads on figuring this out!


-Ted

 

oh and in case any one was wondering you CAN trust the timing marks on the pulley as long as the hub and pully came from the same engine, this is an undeniable fact. so when setting up the timing just lock it to -5 BTDC in the ecu and line up the pin with the yellow mark using a timing light.

and as long as im going on with stuff i found when installing my E8.

the blue wire in the CAS harness is a common ground just dont use/ignore the red one.

10 tooth offset with a 65 degree crank angle is a great starting point for timing the car it was only about 5 degrees off for me, and moremazda. which I dialed out using the CAS.

ummm what else... when using claudios map(s) make sure to check the 3D coolant maps!!! just copy the 2d one into all the load setting of the 3D one and she fires up great.

oh and DO NOT let the E8 see low voltage, some times weird settings get changed, from mine and others experiences with em. so if your ecu goes into boot mode like mine did dont despair. go into the main setup advanced tab uncheck the safety lock make sure boot mode is set to normal and not bootrom, if its not change it. then check the safety lock again.

ummm i think thats all i learned from this install. hope it helps some one.

i asked haltech about this and they said they have no idea why it does this as the haltech runs off of a 5v system and the voltage above that should not make the slightest bit of difference.

 

Yeah, it was a fun install.. The poor starter hates us now...

 

heh
i think we took a couple of months off its life
which means ill need one in a couple of weeks