My engine bay is a mess. I can try to simplify with words what I did compared to what the diagram calls for.

All the 12v wires are 10 gauge

Connection A:
I had the Aux In and a 12v switched source coming together and crimped together inside the spade connector (it was large enough) that I plugged into the relay.

Connection B:
Just a plain ole ground, I put a spade on one end to plug into the relay and a ring terminal on the other end and bolted it to a ground

Connection C:
12v Constant from Battery

Connection D:
Another 12v switched source split into 2 wires. This one I got from the spare haltech red/grey wires I never used.

Connection E:
Here's where I got lazy. For the whole thing to work you need 3 wires from a 12v constant. I just split one wire into 3 using a butt connector and spade conectors.

Connection F:
Just my spare PWM wire.

See if that makes sense. Its a pretty busy looking diagram but when you step back its quite simple. One thing that threw me off for a second was that the 2 relays are not layed out the same. One is flipped, so I labeled each pin to make sure I didn't get them mixed up.
Then just make sure the haltech input/out settings are setup right. Aux in should be set to turbo timer.
Then go to the PWM menu and select turbo timer on one of the out puts corresponding to which wire you ran to the relay and make sure to enable it.

Before you reconnect the battery to test this. Unplug your ecu (Just in case, you want to make sure you don't fry any drivers). With every wire plugged into the relay manually ground the PWM wire on the second relay and you should hear the relay click. They may be a little spark to the ground but it should be very tiny. If you take a voltmeter and measure the voltage of the pwm wire plugged into the relay it will read 12v. This bothered me at first but I was reassured by Peter at Haltech that its ok and its very weak. Then I plugged the ECU back in and tested the feature by setting a preset time on the PWM Turbo Timer menu.
Note: I have not tested this with my car actually running yet, I have no exhaust at the moment. But the ECU stayed on and gave my wideband power until the preset amount of time was up. So I'm pretty sure it works.

Anyways just double check everything and don't plug your ECU in until your ready to test it. I may have missed something on here so don't accept this as written in stone or anything.

Try it out and let me know if it worked for anybody else.


Thanks!

 

Sorry to sound like a whining blind old fart, but this makes even less sense than the Haltech diagram, why would you have Constant 12V power going into pins 87 on both relays, power from the battery comes into the relay on pin 30, and goes out through pin 87, when power and ground is applied to pins 85 and 86.

Looking at the original Haltech wiring diagram, it looks as if on pins 30 and 87 it doesnt really matter if you put power in one or the other, so when the circuit closes your outputting power that is at Pin 87 through pins 30 on both relays and sending it to the ignition swich, thus powering up the car as long as the haltech is on.

Hmm... i guess thats what was confusing me, i was used to using pins 87 and 87a as the power output and seeing it like this backwards on the diagram threw me off.

Now that i look at the original Haltech diagram, it makes total sense now.

 

the ECU does not "loose power" briefly when the ignition switch is turned off.. if you look at FCrocious' diagram above, relay #2 is always ON as long as the Haltech is powered on. remember when the haltech outputs are "on" the are grounded. so when the ignition is turned off, power simply flows through only relay #2 instead of both relays

you have to have 2 additional relays, so that the ignition will still work when turning the car ON (when the Haltech will be off). Otherwise, the haltech will not be able to turn on the relay to provide power to itself and the rest of the car