can the e6x be set up to operate an electronic omp?

 

no I believe it cannot
only haltech that can is the E11

 

can some one explain to me then when the electric omp is actuated. Like is it rpm to rpm, or under a certianload point?

 

I believe the EOMP is activated by the ECU and the ECU determines when/how much/etc to squit in oil. I think a mechanical OMP squirts in oil based on rpm & EOMPs take into account load & such.

Of the FC RX-7s, only 1986-88 had a mechanical pump (turned by a belt?).

If you want to keep the OMP you can switch to a 1986-88 mechanical OMP (not sure if it works on FDs or FBs). I wouldn't even bother, I would just premix.

 

Premix rules. Do it. The MOP is a known weak point in these cars and was a compromise on Mazda's part to make the vehicle less attention intensive for consumers. If it fails your engine is toast. So premix, and lose the MOP plus all that stupidity like the rest of us E6* users. Even if I had an E11 I wouldn't run that bastard.

 

if you look on rotaryaviations website, there's a guy who builds the adapter plates to use premix with the omp--so you get the right amount injected at the right time, but still get all the benefits of premixing in a more convenient way.

 

I seriously disagree that the MOP is "the right amount at the right time"... especially with old lines. Perhaps with brand new lines, new / cleaned oil injectors AND a known perfect MOP... but then, I don't like having a single component with a more rapid failure rate than the rest of the car able to cause me this much trouble when its non-essential. My perspective is premix = reliability increase versus MOP failing, whether it injects from a different reservoir or not.

However, I would agree that MOP injection from a clean, known reservoir is better than stock MOP injection of dirty cruddy engine oil. You just change the premix issue from adding to a reservoir in the engine bay versus adding directly to your gas tank and if you are going to that trouble anyway I say lose the MOP altogether, gain reliability, and get better internal oil dissipation. Just my personal opinion. Keeping the stock setup is not "bad", especially for people who just want to drive their cars. Its just not optimal, especially for people who are asking for performance levels significantly beyond stock.

 

i was talking about by comparison to premixing...
i've only met one guy who had an omp fail...i've had good luck in terms of reliability. you may have different experience, though.

 

Its all good... I know several people with dead MOP's, so I know they fail quite often, particularly as our cars age.

However, I'd like to briefly state, since this is covered many times before, that premixing is also ,and quite possibly moreso, the 'right amount at the right time' since its injected in proportion to the fuel usage of the engine, more load = more fuel = more premix. So don't think that its a bad thing to do. That was my point. I'm sure you are well aware of the many arguments for and against premix. I don't want to go there. I was just pointing out that there is a potential for the MOP to fail and, re: the original discussion of this thread, if a person goes to the trouble to retrofit their vehicle with a programmable ECU they should strongly consider premix as a concurrent upgrade to their vehicle, boosting both the reliability and the performance of their vehicle simultaneously.

 

ahhh... you mean electric omp's right?
as far as the failures go, i was referring to the mechanicals--since the e6* won't control the electric..should have stated that

my bad

 

Yes since that was the original question. "He should ditch the electric MOP and premix" is my very strong recommendation.

 

so what oil has worked best for those that premix? natural ? synth? .. brand?

 

Generally any TC-W3 certified oil works well. I personally use whatever I can buy a gallon (or more) at a time. Do a search for lots of info on the subject. Usually stuff for a jetski or other outboard engine is what we use.

 

the metering pump is a stepper motor. the stock ecu has a load (full range tps, hint hint) and an rpm map*. for a given load and rpm the metering pump needs to be in a certain range if its not you get the check engine light.

*it doesnt have a map like the haltech, it actually will make the calculation on the fly

 

i wonder if we could use a couple pwm outputs to make a rudimentary version of this... maybe use the vtec or div functions and give it a low/high mode based on rpm?

 

The mechanical pump varies the amount of oil injected via a rod attached to the throttle. The electrical pump is controlled by the ECU; mapped by RPM and load no doubt. The actual pump is driven by the engine.

In order to switch from an electrical pump to a mechanical, you'd have to swap front covers with one from an 86-88 13B.