Haltech DIY Wideband o2 , is this good enough for me to tune from?
#1
DIY Wideband o2 , is this good enough for me to tune from?
We'll since it looks like im getting screwed on Matt tuning my car ? (I just cant get enough people here, my fault not his)
Is the DIY o2 good enough for me to tune my car from?
Get someone to drive it, while I tune and monitor the o2 values. Or am i clueless?
At this point I need to tune the car before spring...
If I dont tune it I got 3 choices.
1) Part the car before I blow the motor
2) Sell the car before I blow the motor
or
3) Drive and race it anyways, and blow the motor then do a v8 (something that I can get tuned here locally)
Is the DIY o2 good enough for me to tune my car from?
Get someone to drive it, while I tune and monitor the o2 values. Or am i clueless?
At this point I need to tune the car before spring...
If I dont tune it I got 3 choices.
1) Part the car before I blow the motor
2) Sell the car before I blow the motor
or
3) Drive and race it anyways, and blow the motor then do a v8 (something that I can get tuned here locally)
#2
Mike, the DIY wideband kit is better than nothing! Though I strongly suggest getting some help with your tuning, I don't think it's beyond the realm of reason to believe that you could tune your car with the aid of a decent AFM and some careful thought/common sense.
Too bad you're not nearby, or I'd help you out. If all else fails, you can always sell your car to me! I'm lusting for my first RX-7, and I'm hiding in the shadows waiting for somebody to get tired of theirs and sell it to me at a deal. . . ha ha ha. . .
Let me know if I can help out. Don't blow the car up just for the hell of it, though. Then I won't give you **** for it!
BK
Too bad you're not nearby, or I'd help you out. If all else fails, you can always sell your car to me! I'm lusting for my first RX-7, and I'm hiding in the shadows waiting for somebody to get tired of theirs and sell it to me at a deal. . . ha ha ha. . .
Let me know if I can help out. Don't blow the car up just for the hell of it, though. Then I won't give you **** for it!
BK
#3
Dunno scratch #3, if I blow it up, ill do something else, like a streetported 13b or maybe a BP..
The vert is probally gonna get a 20b, I wanna try my hand at that...
About the 85 tho, Ill probally have to fly someone in, or ship the car to someone
The vert is probally gonna get a 20b, I wanna try my hand at that...
About the 85 tho, Ill probally have to fly someone in, or ship the car to someone
#4
Originally posted by MIKE-P-28
Dunno scratch #3, if I blow it up, ill do something else, like a streetported 13b or maybe a BP..
The vert is probally gonna get a 20b, I wanna try my hand at that...
About the 85 tho, Ill probally have to fly someone in, or ship the car to someone
Dunno scratch #3, if I blow it up, ill do something else, like a streetported 13b or maybe a BP..
The vert is probally gonna get a 20b, I wanna try my hand at that...
About the 85 tho, Ill probally have to fly someone in, or ship the car to someone
NO, get a base map from someone and leave the timming alone, i would just leave it. The power gains will be lower, but safe, and you really need to know what you are doing to tune timming..
As for tunning on the street with a WB, that is how everyone tunes fuel usually.. Just get the poteniameter for it and watch the gauge and match the correct AFR..
Also you will want to make use of the E-Brake to put load on the engine while tunning.
So you will start out slowly in different RPMS.
Hope that made a little sense..
If you want you can always come up here and we will help you.. We have a FJO wideband and a road dyno.. but i am not ready to play with timming yet..
We will be tunning my FB soon and we have done a little tunning on the 20B FC already, but now we are going tec3 on that so we get to start over..
-Zach
#5
I'd avoid using the e-brake to load the engine if I were you. Find some long, gradual hills and accelerate up them in a higher gear than you normally would. It takes some patience and practice, but once you develop your technique, you'll find that you can safely load the engine and tune all your drivability issues on the street much better than on the dyno. Put the wideband display where you can see it without taking your eyes off the road, and develop muscle memory so you can strike the home, arrow up/down, and page up/down keys quickly without looking at the keyboard or taking your eyes off the road.
BK
BK
#6
I never planned on messing with the timming, I know thats a very touchy subject especially at 17 psi or so boost..
For tuning, I was gonna have someone else drive while I tweaked on it a little..
BTW: the base map I derived this from was Hitman's base 13bt map. I did however, drop the richness on the primaries about 5-7% across the board. To be safe, its still very very rich, but until I know what Im shooting for I sure as hell aint tuning from the crappy autometer A/F I have.
Where is Normal, IL?
For tuning, I was gonna have someone else drive while I tweaked on it a little..
BTW: the base map I derived this from was Hitman's base 13bt map. I did however, drop the richness on the primaries about 5-7% across the board. To be safe, its still very very rich, but until I know what Im shooting for I sure as hell aint tuning from the crappy autometer A/F I have.
Where is Normal, IL?
#7
Haven't we ALL heard this
Dude, check out the website at the bottom of my post. They have Version 1.5 out now. It will beable to data log the AFR, RPM, and one other input. You just hook it up to a palm device or laptop. So you keep your eyes on the road. These units are quailty and if you build it your self you can have wideband in your car for approx $300.
From the looks of your mods that is a drop in the bucket for your investment.
I built the V1.0 and it is in my car minus the sensor. After new years I am getting it installed.
I would say at least get that wideband. It is better than any greddy, autometer, voltmeter using the stock o2 sensor. I understand the greddy uses some speical sensor. but unless it is a 5 wire wideband it is not as good as one.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/
James
From the looks of your mods that is a drop in the bucket for your investment.
I built the V1.0 and it is in my car minus the sensor. After new years I am getting it installed.
I would say at least get that wideband. It is better than any greddy, autometer, voltmeter using the stock o2 sensor. I understand the greddy uses some speical sensor. but unless it is a 5 wire wideband it is not as good as one.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/
James
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#8
Originally posted by MIKE-P-28
I never planned on messing with the timming, I know thats a very touchy subject especially at 17 psi or so boost..
For tuning, I was gonna have someone else drive while I tweaked on it a little..
BTW: the base map I derived this from was Hitman's base 13bt map. I did however, drop the richness on the primaries about 5-7% across the board. To be safe, its still very very rich, but until I know what Im shooting for I sure as hell aint tuning from the crappy autometer A/F I have.
Where is Normal, IL?
I never planned on messing with the timming, I know thats a very touchy subject especially at 17 psi or so boost..
For tuning, I was gonna have someone else drive while I tweaked on it a little..
BTW: the base map I derived this from was Hitman's base 13bt map. I did however, drop the richness on the primaries about 5-7% across the board. To be safe, its still very very rich, but until I know what Im shooting for I sure as hell aint tuning from the crappy autometer A/F I have.
Where is Normal, IL?
Right in the bloody middle of Illinois..
And a hill would be better, but here in IL there are none
And screw using the arrow keys, get the potentiameter, it is much easier and a hell of alot better.
You can build one at radio shack for ~$2, i forget the resistance, i believe it is a 10K ohm pot though.
-Zach
#9
Originally posted by Wankel7
Dude, check out the website at the bottom of my post. They have Version 1.5 out now. It will beable to data log the AFR, RPM, and one other input. You just hook it up to a palm device or laptop. So you keep your eyes on the road. These units are quailty and if you build it your self you can have wideband in your car for approx $300.
From the looks of your mods that is a drop in the bucket for your investment.
I built the V1.0 and it is in my car minus the sensor. After new years I am getting it installed.
I would say at least get that wideband. It is better than any greddy, autometer, voltmeter using the stock o2 sensor. I understand the greddy uses some speical sensor. but unless it is a 5 wire wideband it is not as good as one.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/
James
Dude, check out the website at the bottom of my post. They have Version 1.5 out now. It will beable to data log the AFR, RPM, and one other input. You just hook it up to a palm device or laptop. So you keep your eyes on the road. These units are quailty and if you build it your self you can have wideband in your car for approx $300.
From the looks of your mods that is a drop in the bucket for your investment.
I built the V1.0 and it is in my car minus the sensor. After new years I am getting it installed.
I would say at least get that wideband. It is better than any greddy, autometer, voltmeter using the stock o2 sensor. I understand the greddy uses some speical sensor. but unless it is a 5 wire wideband it is not as good as one.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/
James
Everyone here like them? Any problems , anything youd do over again better?
#10
Originally posted by zyounker
Right in the bloody middle of Illinois..
And a hill would be better, but here in IL there are none
And screw using the arrow keys, get the potentiameter, it is much easier and a hell of alot better.
You can build one at radio shack for ~$2, i forget the resistance, i believe it is a 10K ohm pot though.
-Zach
Right in the bloody middle of Illinois..
And a hill would be better, but here in IL there are none
And screw using the arrow keys, get the potentiameter, it is much easier and a hell of alot better.
You can build one at radio shack for ~$2, i forget the resistance, i believe it is a 10K ohm pot though.
-Zach
#11
Got Boost?
A pot to hook where? You lost me
In addition to that, you can probably use the spare A/D converter in the E6K, and datalog the voltage output, so you have something to look at afterwards, and get a more accurate(ie. slow, readable number) picture of what is going on.
The DIY WB I got seems to be fairly accurate, within a tenth or two of the expensive A/F meters a dyno would use. Definately good enough to get it tuned fairly well.
#13
Originally posted by fatboy7
I think he is talking about using a standard gauge, and using a potentiameter to make the voltage that comes out of the unit lower, in the right range for the gauge to read... Altough this might work, the voltage output isn't linear, so finding out acurately what the A/F really is, is more tricky this way. Just buy one of their display units, they were programmed with this unit in mind (but not analog, so it isn't super easy to read on the fly).
In addition to that, you can probably use the spare A/D converter in the E6K, and datalog the voltage output, so you have something to look at afterwards, and get a more accurate(ie. slow, readable number) picture of what is going on.
The DIY WB I got seems to be fairly accurate, within a tenth or two of the expensive A/F meters a dyno would use. Definately good enough to get it tuned fairly well.
I think he is talking about using a standard gauge, and using a potentiameter to make the voltage that comes out of the unit lower, in the right range for the gauge to read... Altough this might work, the voltage output isn't linear, so finding out acurately what the A/F really is, is more tricky this way. Just buy one of their display units, they were programmed with this unit in mind (but not analog, so it isn't super easy to read on the fly).
In addition to that, you can probably use the spare A/D converter in the E6K, and datalog the voltage output, so you have something to look at afterwards, and get a more accurate(ie. slow, readable number) picture of what is going on.
The DIY WB I got seems to be fairly accurate, within a tenth or two of the expensive A/F meters a dyno would use. Definately good enough to get it tuned fairly well.
Edited for easier description:
FL031606 E6S/K trim **** for ignition/fuel/boost$56
RX-7.com sells them for $56. They are called a trim ****. It is used to adjust the current map.
-Zach
Last edited by zyounker; 01-02-03 at 09:14 AM.
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