slo

iTrader: (1)

Most gas stations have 91 only. I found a source for cheap octane booster thats only sold on military bases I buy it in cases for about 1 dollar per bottle.

There are a few gas stations that sell 100 race gas.

I remember in the late ninteys seing the race gas going for 299 per gallon and thinking who the **** would buy that.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

this is sorta general info, but having driven rx7's since 94, in ca, ive had plenty of experience smogging these things.

In general: basically the engine needs to be mapped so it runs smoothly all the time, a misfire = unburned fuel and unburned fuel = more emissions. so misfires are bad. also the pcv system has a minor impact on emissions as well, it either shouldn't exist, or work as per stock. clean oil, new plugs, clean filters also help

Mixture: this is dictated by the converter, they work with an air fuel ratio of 14.7:1, or maybe a tad richer. thats why every car is in closed loop @14.7:1 and not leaner*

Timing: this isnt super important, it has more to do with Nox emissions, if the timing is too advanced, nox goes up. the distributor cars are running around 20btdc L and 5btdc T, so thats a good ballpark, i think the stock FC's are running less advance, stock.

Air Injection: mazda uses this, because either the engine is too dirty, or would have a lean misfire, under about 2500 rpms. the cat needs to see 14.7:1, and then need to run the engine rich, so it runs, so they add the air pump air to get the mixture to 14.7, also the air pump helps heat up the cat, and that helps it work better. air pump air should GO THRU THE EXHAUST PORTS, like mazda has it. this either means gutting the acv, or hooking it up to the solenoids.

*theres a honda civic vx, it ran leaner, but it wasnt sold in ca, cause it didnt pass smog....

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Actually the first (carbeurated) Honda Civic used a special trick to run extra lean and yet so clean that it didn't need a cat. It brought in air/fuel in 2 spots: 1 in a small cylinder near the spark plug and another away from it. The air/fuel near the spark plug was super rich so it burned easy. The other air/fuel was super lean so that it got rid of most of the unburnt HC and CO. NOx never had much of a chance to form because near the spark plug it was too rich, and away from it was too cold. It could handle leaded gas unlike cars with catalytic converters, making it a big hit during the gas crisis. Their slogan was "any gas will do". Running this lean was also great for mpg.

Mazda's solution for the FB: run extra rich and put an open chamber in the exhaust ("thermal reactor") where the leftover gas (and everything else) can simply burn away. It consumed extra fuel, which sucked for Mazda once the gas crisis hit.

NZConvertible

Aftermarket EFI is illegal for the very same reason you say it's good. It's completely adjustable! While it's theoretically possible to have a very clean tune, it's equally possible (and more likely) to have a tune that kills trees as you drive by. It's completely impractical to make programmable ECU's legal because it's completely impractical to prove that what's stored in them is always compliant. This thread is concrete proof of that. People that use a once-a-year tune to pass emissions are the very reason you've not allowed them. I'm not saying I like the situation, I just understand why it has to be like this.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

^ says the man with no emmisions on his car.

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

Ok to wake this thread up again......So will all of the haltechs be able to handle all of the little options to do this. I know that the e11 has the most outputs but what about the E6.

Let see of the top of my head. 2 or 3 for the ACV 1 for egr (on s4) does the PCV have one?
So it would be like 2-5 items to controll. and the E6 says it has 4 pwm outputs. Are these what I would use to control emmisions if i where to set it up this way?

the E11 has a crapload of outputs but its kind of the same question to me. How are this kind of systems set up? Is it as easy as telling "blue wire 5" to come on at 3000rmp and back off at 5k?

Please be patient I am a haltech noob.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

I honestly don't know the answer to your questions; however let me ask you something, are you planning on running the ACV \ PCV \EGR at all times?

I just passed the e test, I don't have any emissions sensors\devices, except for a high flow cat and hte air pump:

15 MPH

HC ppm limit = 212 Reading = 49 Result = Pass
CO% limit = .85 Reading = 0.03 Result = Pass
NO ppm limit = 2769 Reading = 260 Result = Pass

30 MPH

HC ppm limit = 231 Reading = 93 Result = Pass
CO% limit = 1.23 Reading = 0.04 Result = Pass
NO ppm limit = 2692 Reading = 196 Result = Pass

BTW - Its on a ported engine Damn I am happy as hell!!

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

I probably wouldn't runn the smog at all times, but then agian if i have them on and working why disconect them? I mean i could just disconect the air pump like I do know, the system still works and when i get retested I just hook up the pump and split air pipe to my "testing" cat.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

What I was trying to get to is, if you won't run them at all times; why go through the head aches of getting everything working? If you plan on running all components at all times, then yes, I see why somebody will go out of the ordinary.

I like it simple

slo

iTrader: (1)

Do they do visual inspection in your states?

I would pay 500 dollars every two years and be happy

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

They do

I just keep going to an emissions center that don't really care about visual. What I did last year was, install every single sensor, just for the visual, meaning they were dummies

AUGieDogie

iTrader: (4)

What i do right now is i hook up my air pump and a cat conv. that goes inline with my RB turbo back set up. This is with a Rtek, and I just leave ALL of the emmisions stuff alone, so they work but the AVC sees no air from the pump while i dont have my cat on. Kinda what i wanna do with the haltech in my Vert. Have everything work, then every two years slip the cat and airpump on.
I would just leave the cat on as it is a high flow and it really doesnt drop my boost much, but I don't wanna risk it getting pluged and then having to fork out the money for that. Its cheaper just to leave it hanging on the wall, and run it for the day and a half it takes me to do emmisions and for it to cool down enough to remove.

To be honest right now I'm leaning twords the Power FC for my (just got it today) S5 turbo vert. Allthough the Haltech is a very close second. The wireing will tip the scales in case of a tie. the conversion was done with the standard vert wireing and I would like to replace that so its like 60/40 right now.

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

IIRC... The air pump does two things… Inject air into the exhaust ports… this oxygen will mix with any unburned gas left creating a flammable fuel and burn inside the exhaust manifold

The air pump can also be used to pump air into the cat… by introducing air into the cat (during start up) the exhaust fumes are “oxygenated” which will help turn CO into CO2 further reducing greenhouse emission

The reason the air is not sent to the cat after the cat has heated up is because it will melt the cat.

I will be putting a cat back on my car as well as an air pump...not just because of smog emissions, but i am tired of getting high off my own fumes and smelling like emissions…It's like going to a bar and the next morning you smell your clothes and they stink like cigarettes (when it was legal to smoke in bars)

I plan on using an electric pump off a late model chevy and turn it on/off using a PWM output on the haltech maybe BAC valve control???