Haltech Before warm up boost
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,003
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From: Nashville, TN
Before warm up boost
I have e6k on s5 TII with street port and hybrid turbo. Tune is pretty solid except one problem.
If the car is not at operating temp it will lean out like crazy and start bucking if I go into boost. But yet the coolant correction map seems correct because it runs great in vacume at any rpm, and has a great A/F at idle. When warmed up 12.5 A/F idle and 11.5 A/F in boost. Keep in mind this bucking occurs if the coolant is below 175 degrees, but after that it runs flawless.
Its been like this since I have owned the car. My solution has been to wait until the car is at complete operating temperature before any boost, but its just a little ghetto to have a bucking car.
If the car is not at operating temp it will lean out like crazy and start bucking if I go into boost. But yet the coolant correction map seems correct because it runs great in vacume at any rpm, and has a great A/F at idle. When warmed up 12.5 A/F idle and 11.5 A/F in boost. Keep in mind this bucking occurs if the coolant is below 175 degrees, but after that it runs flawless.
Its been like this since I have owned the car. My solution has been to wait until the car is at complete operating temperature before any boost, but its just a little ghetto to have a bucking car.
Well, I am unsure what would cause the bucking when cold but you should stay out of boost until your car is properly warmed up. So continue what you are doing on that part.
Keep in mind that the engine itself (mostly the oil....) takes longer to heat up then the actual water. I can get about 170F water temps while warming up, but my oil will still be 80F or lower on cool days.
If your coolant correction is good, I'd look at the air temp correction - they're the two main ones. Since you also have to keep in mind, even if your *close* to being warmed up (coolant wise) the manifolds and intake air temp is presumably lower then when the engine is fully warmed up so that will dick around with things.
But in all honesty, don't boost it until everything is warm. It (might) be alright ot do it a little, but whats it hurt to wait 5 minutes?
If your coolant correction is good, I'd look at the air temp correction - they're the two main ones. Since you also have to keep in mind, even if your *close* to being warmed up (coolant wise) the manifolds and intake air temp is presumably lower then when the engine is fully warmed up so that will dick around with things.
But in all honesty, don't boost it until everything is warm. It (might) be alright ot do it a little, but whats it hurt to wait 5 minutes?
Any engine will have different enrichment needs at different loads as it warms up. The higher end ECU's have allowances for enrichment v. load. Best bet is to try to split the difference between fat at light load and lean under load and then just keep your foot out of it until it's warm.
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
stock mazda has it setup to have the seconday throttles closed, so you can boost a little, but it still protects the engine.
mazda also retards the timing a bit with low coolant temps
mazda also retards the timing a bit with low coolant temps
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
Yea guys I completly agree with keeping out of it until warm up I always do and always will but I just wondering what it was. Ill look a little into air temp correction. But I don't really want to go cold boosting to properly do the correction.
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