Got the Hitman's setup to the BAC. Did it, done.

2 questions.

1. Is the bac supposed to make that much noise. Sounds louder than
the car when idling. Sounds like a big vibrator. Is this normal or
is something wrong with my bac. I have the stock plumbing on the
engine except for the stock AFM.

2. The only problem is when I set the cold or hot opening position
so the engine idles higer at start RPM and Cold Idle-Up RPM. when I
rev the car the revs stay high and slowing come down. If I don't set
it up higher than the min like the hitman said, the car will not idle
up high when I start it. Is something wrong again with my BAC or is
this normal.

C

 

Can't help with your question,but can you please discribe how you set-up your BAC valve and what frequency you set ?.

 

Hey TURBOROTOR!!. Based on your last post I tried the BAC valve set up and I have gotten it to work pretty o.k. (still have to fine tune).I experienced the loud noise you spoke about and I'm guessing that it's because the operating frequency you set on the PWM output page is too high ,I had mine at 15ms and heard it then I dropped it to 10ms and it stopped, when I did this however the idle speed started to fall so I had to find a new COLD Min. position @ 39% and the COLD OPENING POSITION @70% The Cold TEMP. LIMIT is at 140 , so i think all the cold settings would apply under this temp (and the hot ones over it) ,also that slow decrease in speed after you rev. it has to do with your COLD and HOT MIN. positions ,my HOT MIN. is @45%,fine tuneing required ,the same thing(slow fall in speed) was happening and I played with these settings and got it to work ok. Remember the COLD/HOT OPENING positions are percentages of the MIN. POSITIONS you set ,if it is set too low the engine would take its time to idle up to the set speed and vice versa,had mine set at 20% and it took about 10secs. then I changed it to 75% and it happens instantly. by the way my car is anFD so settings would most likely be different.hope this helps!.