I'm having some concerns with my tuning adventures. I recently completed a new motor and wired up a sprint re. Now my tuner had helped set the ignition and got it started and running enough for me to have it idle and get it on the trailer. Since then ive done some light tuning and eventually got a cruise map going and have been breaking the motor in.
Its been somewhat of a nightmare as ive clocked 300mi with minor issues and now the drivability has gone out the window. It wouldnt start easy either.
With nothing changing other than having to add fuel in the cells where it idles at, it will start and run. But ive had to richen the map considerably to make it do anything now. Does the motor really go through such drastic changes during break in?

I went from a 900rpm smooth idle requiring 1.5ms value to it now requiring 2.8ms in the cells where it idles but with a nice strong brapping idle. the driveability has gone down quite a bit and I'm not sure if it's just the engine breaking in more or if I have another issue.

Im trying to tune thisnthing as i go and continue the break in but i need some guidance. Heres some info on the motor.

Set up.
Large Streetport. Mild overlap
resurfaced rotor housings
S6 Rotating Assembly
ID850 and ID1000
Running 40-43psi fuel pressure
Stock ignition.

Issue.
Under load feels like timing is off as its sluggish and gutless.
Ive been gradually having to tune for a richer idle to keep it alive. At one point it was happy @13.8 100miles ago..now wants 12.3
Ive played with the throttle pump aswell but it take a considerable amount for it to smooth any hesitations.

 

how are the spark plugs? you can expect to go through a set or two in the tuning process. symptom of bad plugs is more fuel needed, and they kind of run crappy all the time, basically what you're describing.

if you're adventurous, i use the autolite 2627 plug to tune with. they are for an 81-85 rx7, and they are cheap, so ruining a set is no big deal. you will need to regap them to use a stock ignition (they come between 0.040-0.050" gap, stock ignitions want something a little smaller). the electrode also is a bit longer, so they want slightly less fuel than the ngk's. i wouldn't use them at high power/boost as i'm not sure the heat range is right, and i wouldn't trust them not to break, but they are great for tuning idle/cruise.

for an idle mixture, just tune it however the engine runs best, usually this is pretty rich, 12.2 is a good start, as you go leaner idle gets weaker, as its misfiring. from 1100-3500@part load it should be mid 14's happily...

 

Appreciate the input, yea ive actually gone through 3 sets of ngks. Im running 4 9's and have fouled the others fairly fast. As soon as i swap in brand new plugs it seems to be running nice for a bit then goes back to poorly running lol

 

Its gotten worse now. Managed to get it running but now im at 3.8ms. Im ao confused as to what the hell is going on

 

maybe an injector going bad? Increasing pw makes idle afr look normal, but one rotor running super rich, the other lean

 

ive had that happen too. clouds of fuel smoke out the back, but the car was leaned out to the point where it didn't want to run either

 

Quick update, pulled my injectors Friday. Tapped the injectors on my hand filter down to see what come out and had some orangish sand stuff come out. Took them to my local injector service guy and the screens were pretty dirty.

Im going to drop my tank and run new hardlines aswell.