flame away.. i cant make sense of it at all. i have cranked engine by hand and set pin to -5*... set CAS as per hitmans page mazda factory setting, stabbed and tightened. car starts idles nicely.. timing light shows no timing marks at all on leads L1 L2 T1 T2. however the car is running and fairly nicely, 900 rpm ish idle. how is it possible? how do i fix it? is it a cas wiring fault.. a coil wiring fault.. ive been over everything i can think of.. turned cas rotor 180* and got car to run same as above but again no timing marks show with light. turned it 90*, i dont recommend it. this is regardless of timing bein locked on haltech or not. ive been readin threads for days and cant find anything like this and for some reason cant wrap my head around it. please help, perhaps in small words so a child might understand cuz this has me feelin stoopud

 

also notice on the hitman page the mazda factory install for the CAS he has the lil dot on the rotor on the right side by the wiring.. however if i line up the tab on the cas gear itself with the notch i get the rotor in the same position but the dot is on the bottom left as opposed to top right.. significant?

 

FWIW... T2 will not line up with factory timing marks. It is not waste sparked, like the leadings are. However, T1 should be lined up with the factory mark (unless your timing split is not set right).

2nd note... with my timing gun, I have seen my leading coils both fire only once per revolution of the eccentric shaft, instead of twice. Sometimes, when only firing once, it just happens to be the spark that happens 180 degrees out from the timing mark. Usually, if I open and close the pickup for the timing gun, on the spark plug wire, I can get it to fire the gun at the right time.

Third note... you are locking your timing in the software right?

 

well my spark plug wires werent crossed, but might as well have been. always triple check the numbers in the setup and try n use the right tooth offset value for your particular CAS stabbing needs. now anyone got n insight as to why the car runs after the key is turned off untill i disable the injectors? or why i hit a wall at 1500 rpm, drop to 0 rpm, then spike to 9000 for a sec which causes fuel cut an generally is makin life a new brand of "i dont get it" hell. life was easier when i didnt like cars :P

 

look at the CAS sensor connector.

The colors change between the connectors.

I can't remember which one is right but i've done it wrong way and it did that.

I want to say the stock harness changes to the wrong colors.