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If you have concerns over height and want the MC brack - Type-B is the way to go. No question.
If your bar is built with the same parameters as the Improved bar, I'll have to refute this claim.
I still have a 13B-REW with the stock UIM and while the Improved bar fit OK at first, once I put my Noltec engine mounts back in and switched to the Bacon Racing oil pan, it was too high for the strut bar to be installed. Even when I switched to IRP engine mounts which are a bit shorter than the Noltecs, the UIM was still only about 1/16" from the strut bar. The Improved bar (and it looks like this Type B too) crosses further back in the bay, right over the UIM. Whereas the stock bar and Type A crosses further forward, not over the UIM at all. Obviously you know how your bars are made, I'm just pointing out to others differences that some may not have noticed, and my specific issues with either.
However, being that he's asking about using it with a different upper, that will change some things. I just wanted to point out that I had more luck with clearance with a bar that sits further forward, like the Type A.
If your bar is built with the same parameters as the Improved bar, I'll have to refute this claim.
I still have a 13B-REW with the stock UIM and while the Improved bar fit OK at first, once I put my Noltec engine mounts back in and switched to the Bacon Racing oil pan, it was too high for the strut bar to be installed. Even when I switched to IRP engine mounts which are a bit shorter than the Noltecs, the UIM was still only about 1/16" from the strut bar. The Improved bar (and it looks like this Type B too) crosses further back in the bay, right over the UIM. Whereas the stock bar and Type A crosses further forward, not over the UIM at all. Obviously you know how your bars are made, I'm just pointing out to others differences that some may not have noticed, and my specific issues with either.
However, being that he's asking about using it with a different upper, that will change some things. I just wanted to point out that I had more luck with clearance with a bar that sits further forward, like the Type A.
Good point. The other reality about any part fitment is *all else being equal*.
Obviously no manufacturer can account for every possible scenario - but that's why we try to offer a couple different options - so at least people have the choice. Thanks for your input (and support)!
Good point. The other reality about any part fitment is *all else being equal*.
Obviously no manufacturer can account for every possible scenario - but that's why we try to offer a couple different options - so at least people have the choice. Thanks for your input (and support)!
Yeah most certainly. Being that we don't have the same exact setup and it's not the same exact strut bar, that doesn't necessarily mean that version wouldn't work for him. I just thought the mounts on the type B bar look similar to the Improved bar and might not work, but I don't know how high up your bar is either in relation to the Improved bar, which would make all the difference. Either way, I'm glad you guys have two versions so I could get one that will work haha.
Got my package on Friday, Installed it today since its raining in MN.
Packaging was good, came with a nice poster as a gift along with the parts. Very happy with the appearance and quality of everything, perfect welds and very professional looking hardware came with it!
the grand unboxing all the parts and hardware
weighed the stuff for fun,
Drivers side Tower brace 249g
Pass side Tower brace 249g
Bridge 430g
6x Nuts 32g
nice welds.
Installed in 15 min with telling the girl what i was up to, hunting down a deep 14mm and cleaning the engine bay as I worked, good clearance on stock engine, tight fit over the strut tower bolts, had to pop the car up on the pass side so i had a touch more clearance as I installed side to side. Very happy with fitment and the product as it sits in the garage. Thanks guys!
I am really, really impressed with how the matte finish turned out and how great it looks in your engine bay!
So everyone is in-the-loop... ALL Type-As have shipped and many more should have already touched down. The Type-Bs will ship THIS WEEK (we had to wait for hardware on the MC stopper) and should start getting to people end of this week / beginning of next.
For anyone that missed out on this round - we have another batch of Type-As currently being manufactured. ETA on those is another month or so.
We also have rear bars and a a couple other cool bits underway.
Mine was attempted delivery today but I'm out of state for a couple more days. Hopefully it doesn't get sent back haha. My neighbor is trying to get it for me tomorrow. I'm eager to see it when I get back.
Attempted install, no luck lol. After all that talk about the Type B bar not working for me. But mine should still be doable with some further modification or swapping of parts. I have a Turbosmart FPR mounted with the old school CJ Motorsports mount and the bar hits the threaded adjustment part on top, and if I bend it out of the way it still hits the lock nut for that adjustment part. I ordered the new mount from CJM, we'll see if that fixes it. If not, I'll have to fabricate one.
Attempted install, no luck lol. After all that talk about the Type B bar not working for me. But mine should still be doable with some further modification or swapping of parts. I have a Turbosmart FPR mounted with the old school CJ Motorsports mount and the bar hits the threaded adjustment part on top, and if I bend it out of the way it still hits the lock nut for that adjustment part. I ordered the new mount from CJM, we'll see if that fixes it. If not, I'll have to fabricate one.
I got it taken care of today. The new CJM FPR mount wouldn't work either, and then I realized I could just use the mount that comes on the FPR. That moved it back enough to make room for the bar. One fuel line runs really close to the UIM and LIM, but it doesn't make contact.
I got it taken care of today. The new CJM FPR mount wouldn't work either, and then I realized I could just use the mount that comes on the FPR. That moved it back enough to make room for the bar.
Looks AWESOME!
Good job on figuring out the FPR issue.
Originally Posted by Narfle
That looks great. I like you how you kept cruise control, but ditched ABS. It says to me, "I'm dangerous! But, classy."
That looks great. I like you how you kept cruise control, but ditched ABS. It says to me, "I'm dangerous! But, classy."
HAHA, thanks! I put cruise control back in because I'm lazy, and I ditched ABS because...I'm lazy lol. I had pulled out the ABS twice to paint the engine bay and it was such a PITA to bleed it I decided to just leave it out. I kinda wish now that I'd left it in, but now my ECU is using the ABS sensors for traction control and the harness isn't wired for ABS, so it's too late now.
Originally Posted by garage alpha
Looks AWESOME!
Good job on figuring out the FPR issue.
Thanks!
Because my engine sits high, I've had issues with the hood hitting the UIM and TB, so I used rubber bushings on top of the last strut bar. This bar sits even lower so I had to use some taller bushings. I was trying to figure out what would work best when I was digging through my parts bins and came across the hood rest bushings that are right behind the headlights that I removed for the hood pins. They work perfectly! They snap in and everything.
04-24-19, 11:12 AM
