3rd Gen Plastic Part Development
#183
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Bozeman, MT
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here are some photos of different ideas. We came up with just a standard plug, then fitted one with a key slot so you can use your RX7 key to insert and remove the plug, otherwise you'd have to pry it out which isn't ideal. Then we designed a full delete comprised of two pieces that screw together with the OEM hardware.
What does the community want to see?
Full delete.
Two part delete.
Back side.
Front with alignment key.
Plug with key slot for easy removal.
With and without key slot.
#189
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Bozeman, MT
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
UPDATES
Okay, we've been fairly busy around here with all of these projects so the cluster hood is taking longer than expected. Rest assured, OP will deliver! I promise. However, in the meantime we came up with this neat little USB/AUX switch.
It has two USB ports, because let's be honest, two is always better than one. And the AUX is currently uninstalled since we blew through our stock for the BMW switches quicker than expected. It is a two-part design that will bolt together with included hardware. The output on the backside is the same as the front, so install is simple. You'll be able to run the USB/AUX cables to wherever you'd like: to your radio, a 12v source for charging - whatever you decide. You can also mount it into whatever port you'd like, seeing as we designed it to fit like an OEM switch.
Here's the prototype:
Front face
Two part design
Installed into the center bracket
Backside
Fully installed.
Thoughts on design?
#191
Form > Function
iTrader: (108)
I love it. It's awesome. My *only* concern is about the USB comming up at a 90 degree angle and the potential to knock an elbow into it an break something.
What if the switch was a little thicker and USB / Aux was at more of a 15 degree angle? I know that might mean only one USB per blank - but most of us have extras, especially when replacing the exhaust overheat / security lights.
Perhaps a little retainer for the USB "tail" as well?
Whatever the final design, put me down for one.
What if the switch was a little thicker and USB / Aux was at more of a 15 degree angle? I know that might mean only one USB per blank - but most of us have extras, especially when replacing the exhaust overheat / security lights.
Perhaps a little retainer for the USB "tail" as well?
Whatever the final design, put me down for one.
#192
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Bozeman, MT
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I love it. It's awesome. My *only* concern is about the USB comming up at a 90 degree angle and the potential to knock an elbow into it an break something.
What if the switch was a little thicker and USB / Aux was at more of a 15 degree angle? I know that might mean only one USB per blank - but most of us have extras, especially when replacing the exhaust overheat / security lights.
Perhaps a little retainer for the USB "tail" as well?
Whatever the final design, put me down for one.
What if the switch was a little thicker and USB / Aux was at more of a 15 degree angle? I know that might mean only one USB per blank - but most of us have extras, especially when replacing the exhaust overheat / security lights.
Perhaps a little retainer for the USB "tail" as well?
Whatever the final design, put me down for one.
It's just too tight of a fit to angle the ports, I think even with the option of just one. You can install the switch into any of the ports on the center console, though, as pictured below. I feel like that location would be out of the way enough.
#193
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Washington
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alternatively you could mount the PCB itself at an angle, then just wire up the male ends by cutting up some USB cables and soldering them to pads.
Easiest might actually be to use one PCB per plug that is just the female plug with two screw holes and four solder points for a short male cable.
I can mock something up in eagle if you can give me dimensions. They should be cheap to build so they shouldn't affect cost by more than $5-10 per unit at most, assuming you order in low quantity and get the PCBs run at OSHPark
#195
Junior Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Blaine, WA & Vancouver BC
Posts: 14
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What's the distance between both of the ports? It looks tight. Think someone inserting a USB thumb drive that has a thick housing (someone common). All of a sudden the secondary port becomes useless to use at the same time if one won't clear the other. If you have the opportunity, make them as far apart as possible.
#196
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Bozeman, MT
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It could work if you spun up a PCB for it. Pretty simple to build realistically, but the plastic would need to support the USB plugs since angle mounting them would prevent you from soldering down the structural tabs.
Alternatively you could mount the PCB itself at an angle, then just wire up the male ends by cutting up some USB cables and soldering them to pads.
Easiest might actually be to use one PCB per plug that is just the female plug with two screw holes and four solder points for a short male cable.
I can mock something up in eagle if you can give me dimensions. They should be cheap to build so they shouldn't affect cost by more than $5-10 per unit at most, assuming you order in low quantity and get the PCBs run at OSHPark
Alternatively you could mount the PCB itself at an angle, then just wire up the male ends by cutting up some USB cables and soldering them to pads.
Easiest might actually be to use one PCB per plug that is just the female plug with two screw holes and four solder points for a short male cable.
I can mock something up in eagle if you can give me dimensions. They should be cheap to build so they shouldn't affect cost by more than $5-10 per unit at most, assuming you order in low quantity and get the PCBs run at OSHPark
What's the distance between both of the ports? It looks tight. Think someone inserting a USB thumb drive that has a thick housing (someone common). All of a sudden the secondary port becomes useless to use at the same time if one won't clear the other. If you have the opportunity, make them as far apart as possible.
UPDATES!
Here's the finished component! Just remove the OEM bracket and switch from the desired port you wish to install this, separate the part using a 2mm allen wrench, install into the port and tighten the bolts down, then use whatever length cables you desire to wire up the ports! Installing the components takes all of 2 minutes once the center console is removed.
#200
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Bozeman, MT
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree, and we could get a stockpile of rubber plugs for the component, but my thought is that most people would just lose them within the first week anyway. There is always the option to pick up a pack of 10 on your own to have, something like this:
USB Port Silicone Rubber Dust Cover - modCover.com
USB Port Silicone Rubber Dust Cover - modCover.com